Edinburgh is well-known today as a destination for theater, booze, and unfortunate weather. And a lot more, certainly, but that’s what first came to my mind as I prepared to visit Scotland in November. I was already at peace with the fact it would be wet and chilly, but I was sure as hell going to arrive with a good list of places to seek refuge from the weather.

Drinking in Scotland was obviously on my mind, so when I started combing the internet and inquiring from European friends about where to go in Edinburgh, I steered the search towards good pubs. It turns out Edinburgh has a TON of pubs and whisky bars, so the research could get VERY granular. Did it have a fireplace? How historic was the interior? Were there Victorian cherubs painted on the mirrors? Do they sell fish and chips with special vinegar sauce?

Once you get to Scotland, you might be lucky and find yourself with a sunny morning to hike around Holyrood Park and up to the top of Arthur’s Seat. The views throughout this park are exceptional and the greens electric. If you visit the park, I insist you stop by the oldest pub in all of Scotland, The Sheep’s Heid Inn, established in the same spot in 1360. There you will find a traditional pub lunch, a strong pint or dram, and maybe even some sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

By the time I visited Edinburgh, I had collected such an amazing list of bars, I would need to visit several times to get through them all. I did my best, but some I’ve left a few for my next trip. And it somehow keeps growing. Maybe you can try and hit them all in your visit.

I’m more of a historic pub guy than an upscale cocktail or liquor-only spot, but I’ve included both on the list below. I’ve also separated out whisky destinations for those wanting to head right to the city’s whisky experts!

PUBS & COCKTAIL LOUNGES:

Bennet’s Bar: 8 Leven St, Edinburgh EH3 9LG, UK

Beautiful old Victorian pub with endless detail to admire. Whisky or local ale.

Bramble Bar & Lounge: 16A Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JE, UK

Below ground craft cocktail lounge that looks like a dry cleaner from street!

Canny Mans: 237 Morningside Rd, Edinburgh EH10 4QU, UK

Quirky pub serving up local beer and Danish open-faced sandwiches. Old instruments hang from ceiling.

Kay’s Bar: 39 Jamaica St, Edinburgh EH3 6HF, UK

There is a real fire in the front, antique wooden casks, and a small back section complete with a library and board games.

Nauticus: 142 Duke St, Edinburgh EH6 8HR, UK

Wonderful pub in Leith, full of character, quality drink, and local meat & cheese charcuterie.

Panda and Sons: 79 Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 4NF, UK

Speakeasy-style cocktail bar. Look for “barbershop” window, then take stairs to basement, enter through bookshelf at bottom

Teuchters Landing: 1C Dock Pl, Edinburgh EH6 6LU, UK

Pub on the water in Leith. Go for drinks and fresh seafood snacks.

The Bon Vivant: 55 Thistle St, Edinburgh EH2 1DY, UK

Spiffy cocktail and wine bar, with a quality restaurant for small plates.

The Hanging Bat: 133 Lothian Rd, Edinburgh EH3 9AB, UK

Perfect beer-lover’s destination, with bat-shaped tap handles.

The Last Word Saloon: 44 St Stephen St, Edinburgh EH3 5AL, UK

Creative cocktails in a beautiful lounge. Somewhat hidden; find Kenji Sushi and look down.

The Sheep Heid Inn: 43-45 The Causeway, Edinburgh EH15 3QA, UK

Famous gastropub on the far side of Holyrood Park. Top atmosphere and drenched in history; pub on this same spot since 1360!

WHISKY SPECIALISTS:

Kaleidoscope Bar at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society: 28 Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JX, UK

Excellent choice if you wish to sit and sample local whisky with consultation from an expert bartender in an exclusive environment.

The Bow Bar: 80 W Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2HH, UK

This appears to be just an average pub from the outside, but believe me, this is a spot that serves over 300 whiskies and has a great casual, historic feel for tasting a dram or two.

Usquabae Whisky Bar: 2-4 Hope St, Edinburgh EH2 4DB, UK

High-end basement tavern that allows you to reserve whisky tasting appointments in advance.

Whiski Rooms: 4-7 N Bank St, Edinburgh EH1 2LP, UK

Touristy stop, but high in quality and selection. Try a whisky flights along with some typical Scottish far or purchase bottles from the shop next door