Marseille has been long avoided by tourists due to an unfavorable reputation. This reputation, that Marseille is a town overrun with corruption, danger, and poverty has been slowly improving over the last several years, but just watch an episode of Netflix’s show “Marseille” (with the amazing French actor Gérard Depardieu) and you’ll see that it still has plenty of room for improvement. Consequently, many tourists end up choosing nearby vacation classics instead, like the tidy Aix-en-Provence, the gorgeous coastal calanques, or the tony French Riviera.

I began to read more about Marseille in the last few years, and wanted to give France’s second largest city a chance. It is, after all, conveniently located: on the Mediterranean coast with an airport, TGV station, and a large fleet of tour boats arriving and departing daily. Hearing Anthony Bourdain describe Marseille as “exactly the kind of place I like” didn’t hurt, either.

I can confirm the Marseille of today is both fun and gorgeous, and with thanks of recent investments in infrastructure and cultural centers, it will leave you impressed and bragging to friends about the discoveries you made. Indulge in the surprisingly good pizza or African cuisine scene, or play it safe with some classic seafood bouillabaisse. Be sure to stop at the many shops selling local artisan soap and olive oils, or enjoy a boat cruise to the calanques. Just walking through the city streets, you will be forced to admit this town exceeds expectations and is anything but boring.

Old Port of Marseille

Settled by the Greeks in antiquity as a strategic port for trade, the city grew due to it’s large, natural harbor on the Mediterranean Sea. The port of Marseille now supports 45,000 jobs and brings over 4 billion Euros to the local economy. Today, the port’s main industries are petroleum refining and shipbuilding, but there are also more interesting products made in Marseille, like soap, linens, and olive oil.

Maison Empereur

The large, wonderful shop called Maison Empereur, located in downtown Marseille, is the place to go for everything you might need for the home. As a tourist, this could include locally made soap, spices, dishware, knives, and much more. I spent at least an hour exploring Maison Empereur’s many rooms and will definitely stop here on any return trip to Marseille. I live in NYC, but I found myself wishing I had a shop like this nearby.

Panier District

My favorite area in Marseille is the Panier, an ancient district centrally located just off the port. This district is known for its museums, arts, quality dining and the second oldest church in Europe, the Cathedral de la Major. I recommend finding a hotel or home-stay near the the Panier so you can easily explore the treasures of the Panier at all hours.

The Panier is also home to the fascinating MuCEM Museum, where you can learn more about the local Mediterranean history and culture. This museum makes for an interesting visit not just for the education it provides, but due also to the ambitious architectural design. MuCEM, located on the very end of the harbor and surrounded on 3 sides by water, provides an unparalleled platform to admire the expanse of the harbor, the colors of the land and sea, and soak up some French sunshine. The museum has many landings, bridges, and patios, all making for a thrilling chance to explore the gorgeous Mediterranean setting from an exciting, interactive modern structure.

In the Panier, you will also notice an exciting display of locally produced street art, painted on the sides of buildings and stairways throughout the neighborhood. I recommend strolling through the streets of the upper Panier to admire the skillful artwork, on your way to eat at a great restaurant like Entre Terre & Mer or to learn more about the local sport of pétanque at Maison de la Boule.

Recommendations to Consider

COFFEE & PASTRY:

Bernie Coffee: 7 Place de Rome, 13006 Marseille, France

Bricoleurs de Douceurs (Pastry): 202 Chemin du Vallon de l'Oriol, 13007 Marseille, France

Coogee (Coffee / Breakfast): 100 Boulevard Baille, 13005 Marseille, France

7VB Café (Coffee): 9 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS:

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13281 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major: Place de la Major, 13002 Marseille, France

Les Escaliers du Cours Julien (Street Art Area): Rue Estelle, 13006 Marseille, France

Maison de la Boule (Pétanque Museum): 4 Place des 13 Cantons, 13002 Marseille, France

MuCEM: Musée Des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée: 1 Espl. J4, 13002 Marseille, France

SHOPPING:

Le Bazar de César Savonnerie (Soap / Gifts): 4 Montée des Accoules, 13002 Marseille, France

Maison Empereur (Home Goods Shop): 4 Rue des Récolettes, 13001 Marseille, France

72% Pétanque (Soap / Gifts): 10 Rue du Petit Puits, 13002 Marseille, France

FOOD:

Chez Etienne (Pizza): 43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

Chez Saveur (Pizza): 10 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille, France

Entre Terre & Mer (seafood): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

Lacaille (Local French): 42 Rue des trois Mages, 13006 Marseille, France

La Cantinetta (Italian): 24 Cours Julien, 13006 Marseille, France

Le Bouchon Provençal (Local French): 6 Place aux Huiles, 13001 Marseille, France

Maison Geney (Cafe, Breakfast or Lunch): 38 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

Restaurant Le Femina (Couscous): 1 Rue du Musée, 13001 Marseille, France

Restaurant Michel (Bouillabaisse Specialist): 6 Rue des Catalans, 13007 Marseille, France

BARS:

Cafe de l’Abbaye: 3 Rue d'Endoume, 13007 Marseille, France

Carry Nation: Adresse secrète!, 13006 Marseille, France (must reserve here to receive the address)

WHERE TO STAY:

Au Vieux Panier ($$): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

InterContinental Marseille ($$$): 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille, France