October 01, 2020

One Day in Puebla, Mexico

October 01, 2020/ Todd Thomas

Recognized as a cultural, artistic, and culinary hot-spot, Puebla is the kind of travel destination that immediately feels both unique and essential. For a small city, there’s a surprising amount to see and do. Buildings are commonly decorated with tiles or brightly-painted surfaces, making Puebla a photographer’s dream. When I visited in January, I rode the bus down from Mexico City early in the morning and returned at dinnertime. The trip exceeded every expectation, but when I return, I will be sure to spend the night in town so I can experience more of its culinary gems and gorgeous hotels.

HOW TO GET THERE FROM MEXICO CITY

Puebla is easily accessible by bus from the TAPO Bus Terminal, also known as Terminal Oriente, alongside the San Lázaro Metro station in Mexico City. A one-way ticket on Estrella Roja or ADO from the TAPO Terminal usually costs about $160 to $200 MXN for direct service to Puebla’s main CAPU station (<$10 USD). Buses leave for Puebla approximately every fifteen minutes and the entire trip takes 2 hours. If you book a bus ticket in advance, you should download the ADO Móvil app on your phone, as booking and payment are simpler using the app.

Gorgeous scenery from the bus of Volcanic mountains!

COFFEE AND LUNCH

When you arrive in Puebla, you’ll need to find your way to the historic town center. Take note that if you arrive by bus, you will not be within easy walking distance. I recommend using a ride sharing app such as Uber, as the walk would take one hour and Uber will only cost a couple dollars.

Cafe Cultura: Calle 4 Sur 506, Centro, 72000 Puebla, Mexico

To pep yourself up after the day’s journey, a quick coffee should do the trick! Our favorite spot for coffee was the Cafe Cultura, with a comfortable and casual atmosphere that allowed us to sit down, charge our phones, and plan out our day in the spacious living room-style seating area.

Profética: Calle 3 Sur 701, Centro, 72000 Puebla, Mexico

For a wonderful lunch in a sunny courtyard, head to the Profética bookstore and cafe. We ordered authentic Pueblan tortas (sandwiches) and enchiladas. I wish we could have spent longer just sitting in the pleasant setting, people-watching and listening to the fountain.

ACTIVITIES AND MUSEUMS

Puebla was founded during the colonial era due to it’s strategic location on the road between Mexico City and the port city of Veracruz. Since the 1980s, the city has been a World Heritage site, and is celebrated for its architecture and educational institutions. During our one day in Puebla, we made our way to several important sites that we would label as must-sees. A few favorites are described below.

Palafoxian Library: Av 5 Ote 5, Centro, 72000 Puebla

This hidden gem is actually fairly well-hidden! When you walk into the building, go through the courtyard and take the stairs up to the second floor where you need to purchase a ticket to enter this historical one-room library. I guarantee this library will take you right out of time, with every historic detail preserved and polished.

Museo Casa de Alfeñique: Av. 4 Ote. No.416, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Our favorite stop of the day was this quirky and romantic home-turned-museum. You will learn a bit of history as you walk throughout the museum, each room more fascinating than the one before. Be sure to find the small chapel and kitchen, and do admire the hand-painted tiles that abound on the floors, stairways, balconies, and walls.

Capilla del Rosario: Victoria del 5 de Mayo, Centro, 72000 Puebla (in Templo de Santo Domingo)

Another hidden gem, you will enter this golden 17th Century chapel through the Santo Domingo church. Gilded floor to ceiling, this entire church and chapel will leave you dazzled by the craftsmanship and resources that went into every inch of its interior.

ADDITIONAL CULTURAL SITES

Catedral de Puebla: C. 16 de Septiembre s/n, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Puebla’s main cathedral, located on the central square. Worth a quick visit.

Museo Amparo: Av 2 Sur 708, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Fantastic museum with a collection that spans from pre-Columbian artifacts to contemporary. Do not miss the roof top views.

Museo Universitario Casa de los Muñecos: Calle 2 Nte 2, Centro, 72000 Puebla

University museum featuring both arts and science.

SHOPPING

Callejon De Los Sapos: 0052 El Callejon De Los Sapos, 72000 Puebla

Translates to Alley of the Frogs. Open air market for exploration, mainly for local crafts and antiques.

Calle del Dulce: Av 6 Ote 209, Centro, 72000 Puebla.

A street with many traditional candy shops.

Talavera de la Luz: Av. Don Juan de Palafox y. Mendoza 1413, Barrio de Analco, 72500 Puebla

Gorgeous shop featuring high quality hand-painted ceramics. Worth the stroll out of the city center.

Uriarte Talavera: Av. 4 Pte. 911, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Arts shop with high quality, hand-painted ceramics.

FOOD AND DRINK

Casareyna Restaurante: Privada 2 Ote. 1007, Centro, 72000 Puebla

A nice hotel restaurant known for both ambiance and excellent food.

El Mural de los Poblanos: 16 de Septiembre 506, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Quality local food in the town’s historic center. Get your mole here!

Las Ranas Taqueria: Av 2 Pte 105, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Best tacos in Puebla!

La Pasita: Av 5 Ote 602, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Casual hot spot to sample traditional Mexican alcoholic beverages.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel La Purificadora: Paseo de San Francisco, Calle 10 Nte. 802, Barrio del Alto, 72000 Puebla

Azul Talavera Hotel: Calle 10 Nte. 1402, Barrio del Alto, 72000 Puebla

Quinta Real Puebla: Av 7 Pte 105, Centro, 72000 Puebla

March 13, 2020

Teotihuacan Pyramids: The Ultimate Day Trip From CDMX

March 13, 2020/ Todd Thomas

Do you like a good mystery? This one involves ancient pyramids, an abandoned city, and a feathered serpent deity. If I have caught your attention, then you must consider booking a trip to Mexico City to see the ancient Teotihuacan site, a pre-Columbian city that is now a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, just 25 miles from Mexico City.

No one really knows who built the Teotihuacan city, dating back to 600 BC and containing major pyramids, temples, sculpture, and the remains of residential buildings that at one point housed over one hundred thousand people in a thriving, thoughtfully designed city. The three largest and most famous pyramids located at Teotihuacan are the Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent).

Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent)

Although there’s no way to know exactly what happened to Teotihuacan, it’s possible that the civilization was wiped out by an agricultural disaster or a social uprising and subsequent burning of the entire town around 750 AD.

HOW TO GET TO TEOTIHUACAN

There are frequent, inexpensive busses that will take you from Mexico City to the entrance to Teotihuacan, but if you’re traveling with one or two others, it will be fairly easy and economical to use an Uber car service, at the cost of approximately $30 each way. We asked our Uber driver to take us to the site entrance closest to the Pyramid of the Sun, and we enjoyed starting our day at Teotihuacan around 9AM just as it was opening to the public.

TIPS FOR A BETTER VISIT

Be sure you bring plenty of sunscreen, water, and maybe even a hat to protect you from the sun. The entire site requires a lot of walking and climbing out in the direct sun with very few places to find shade. Arriving first thing in the morning helps you not just to escape the crowd but allows you to begin your visit during a cooler part of the day. We were able to climb up the Pyramid of the Sun, the largest pyramid, before the hottest temperatures hit, and we were so glad as it would have been miserable in both high heat and heavy crowds.

Approach Teotihuacan with patience. We are, thankfully, fit and able to climb stairs quickly, however, we saw several older or less able visitors struggling with their climbs. This will require some patience and understanding as you wait for others holding onto the ropes before you. I suggest you simply look around and appreciate a slower pace. There are beautiful, distant mountain ranges to appreciate, as well as stellar views of the entire Teotihuacan site below.

WHERE TO EAT LUNCH

There are several lunch spots you could choose from, all located on the perimeter of Teotihuacan and just a few minutes walk from the main parking lots. Most appear to provide basic Mexican fare and 99% of them are grandma’s kitchen casual. We were unsure if La Gruta, undoubtedly the most famous of the lunch spots, would match the hype. But after climbing down into the massive cave and sitting amongst the flickering candlelight lining the cave walls, we knew we had made the right choice. While the food is not as good as the remarkable places we ate at in Mexico City, it was a solid meal in an utterly unique setting.

La Gruta: Circuito Arqueologico, Avenida del Puente S/N, 55820 San Francisco Mazapa, Méx., Mexico

March 10, 2020

Where To Make Dinner Reservations in Mexico City

March 10, 2020/ Todd Thomas

If you’re determined to eat at excellent local restaurants during your travels, then you probably do a lot of research and make dinner reservations well in advance. I did not always plan ahead for my meals abroad, but after an unfortunate Saturday evening spent searching the streets of rainy Paris for what felt like hours, I decided it would be the last time.

If I’m new to a city or visiting on a Thursday through Saturday, I travel with a long list of highly-regarded restaurants and a few dinner reservations made in advance. Sometimes I cancel my reservations depending on how the day turns out (you can’t tie me down!), but more often than not, my research and reservations save the day! It also gives me something to confidently anticipate throughout the day.

Mexico City is so famous for its food that I put a lot more time than usual into restaurant research. I consulted friends, articles, and blogs. I looked at hundreds of photos on Google Maps, Facebook, and Instagram pages. Below is the list of restaurants that excited me most.

Where We Actually Had Dinner

Fonda Fina: Medellín 79, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Fonda Fina provided an ideal first meal the evening we arrived in CDMX. The menu had many classic Mexican dishes and really excelled at lively sauces and fresh ingredients. The restaurant had a warm, intimate feeling and the wait staff were very attentive. I recommend trying one of their fruity cocktails.

Contramar: Calle de Durango 200, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Contramar was our favorite dinner spot in CDMX. The restaurant decor was crisp and stylish, and the service was wonderfully attentive. If you love seafood, or even if you don’t, you still should prioritize Contramar for a special dinner in Mexico City.

Huset: Colima 256, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Huset appears to have it all; excellent decor, hip clientele, and fantastic food. The giant outdoor garden was special for this urban setting, providing fun, ambient lighting, lush plants, and a pebbled floor. We initially had made reservations to sit at the bar, but the night we visited, the evening was warm and the garden had space so we changed our minds. If you want a restaurant where you need a lift in your travel mood, then consider Huset and it’s lively garden and fun staff.

Pujol: Tennyson 133, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

We had to try the infamous Pujol. We understood it was expensive, even for us New Yorkers. However, we budgeted for it and went in with a very open mind. It turns out, you will certainly need an open mind during your visit to Pujol. The menus add several surprises and are guaranteed to introduce you to foods you have never encountered. Think sea urchin, algae, and ant larvae. I am certainly not very adventurous but sometimes it’s fun to just dive in and surrender to new and exotic foods as you leave your old self behind!

Restaurants We Will Prioritize For Our Next Visit

Azul Historico: Isabel la Católica 30, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Cafe De Tacuba: Calle de Tacuba 28, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06010 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

La Docena: Av. Álvaro Obregón 31, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Do you have a favorite restaurant in Mexico City? Please let us know in the comments below!

February 11, 2020

Where To Stay In Mexico City

February 11, 2020/ Todd Thomas

If you’re heading to Mexico City (CDMX) for the very first time, as I did recently, you will likely have several questions, but one of the first will be finding the ideal spot to rest your head. What you probably know is that Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world and you will absolutely want to situate yourself someplace both interesting and convenient.

Let me just cut to the chase and let you know the area of Mexico City I recommend most: La Condesa and Roma Norte. You will hear others plug Polanco, but after experiencing it, I would exclude it for someone’s very first trip due to all the modern office buildings and exclusive gated properties. La Condesa and Roma Norte feel more central, historic, and much more beautiful.

Why La Condesa / Roma Norte?

Walkability

Situated at the center of most popular destinations, you’ll be able to walk (or very quick cab ride) everywhere. We walked to the museums, to the sites in the downtown, and of course, were in the right spot for great food and nightlife.

Coffee Scene

Coffee is important to me. I love having my first stop of the day be a small, neighborhood cafe where I can order a nice cup-o-joe and a local pastry, and just sit down and figure out my day. The coffee in and around La Condesa was excellent and I didn’t run out of local cafes to try.

Bars

The nightlife of La Condesa and Roma Norte ranges from classic sidewalk cafes, to unbelievably cool cocktail bars, to old-school mezcal spots. Why not stay a few blocks away from all that so you can walk home after drinking one too many strong pours?

Food

Food is the reason many people travel to CDMX to begin with. So much excellent food at reasonable prices! Whether you make dinner reservations at the famous Contramar or Huset or want to experience the pastry heaven of Panaderia Rosetta Havre, save yourself the Uber rides and stay nearby.

Parks

I can not put enough emphasis on how gorgeous parks are in Mexico City. Parque Mexico, Parque Espana, Plaza Rio de Janeiro, and of course the ginormous Bosque de Chapultepec all are a quick walk when you stay in La Condesa or Roma Norte. Make yourself at home on a park bench and marvel at the number of adorable, well-trained dogs being walked. You’ll start wondering why people don’t talk about the parks of Mexico City more often.

Beauty

This final point may or may not be an obvious one. Some people might assume staying in downtown Centro will put them in the middle of it all. It may do that in some cities, but downtown in most cities is also dirty, touristy, loud, and decidedly lacking in charm during the evening hours.

Instead, when I first stay in a city, I try to locate an area a local person would choose as their favorite urban area to hang out, both day and night. In NYC that area would be the West Village and in Mexico City, it is La Condesa and Roma Norte. You will find green leafy streets, adorable, brightly-colored homes, and stylish locals. You’ll marvel at what plants and trees will actually thrive in this urban area: from bright red poinsettias to giant philodendrons and cactus gardens, your jaw will drop as you turn every corner in these adorable, yet convenient, Mexico City neighborhoods.

Airbnb or Hotel:

This of course is a personal choice, but I found the Airbnb options to be so plentiful and of such high quality, not to mention affordable, that I chose to stay at an Airbnb on the Condesa/Roma Norte line. For me, this was the perfect choice, but know there are also dozens of beautiful hotel choices in this area, from basic ($50+) to luxury boutique ($300+). My Airbnb was $90/night and incredibly chic.

Do you have a favorite neighborhood in Mexico City? Leave a comment below!