A Lesson Learned: Validate Transportation Tickets!

It has been two months since I made this mistake in Siena, Italy, and I remain a little annoyed. I can’t decide if I’m more angry at myself or the Italian public transportation system that sets tourists up for hefty fines by selling open tickets requiring you to validate them once on board using awkward stamping machines. 

Always read the fine print!

As an American who has lived in several major cities, I sometimes get too confident when I approach a new bus or train system. After all, I constantly use public buses and rail systems as my daily transportation in my home city and during all of my travels. I always buy tickets, I tap my pass or ticket before I enter systems; I simply try and follow the rules. However, In my recent visit to Italy I found myself a recipient of a hefty fine for failing to validate a bus ticket onboard.

You Are A Visitor and You Follow Local Laws and Customs

This is a warning to all travelers: Every city and system differs in how they check transportation tickets. Some require you to validate them before entry, some drivers assist you upon entry, some tickets are only valid for one particular date and time, and some tickets require validation using a time-stamp machine inside the vehicle. I knew about these various options, of course, and even used self-validation machines on this same trip. Where I went wrong was following locals entering a bus using the rear door, where there wasn’t a validation machine, and proceeding to forget about my ticket validation. Of course at the end of my bus journey I was caught with an un-validated ticket at my destination. This simple mistake resulted in a hefty $60 fine. It didn’t matter to the officer that my bus ticket was properly purchased that very same day. It didn’t matter that I was a tourist in town for one day only, nor that I was not caught trying to sell the ticket or use it twice. All that mattered is that I didn’t follow the rules of the system I was riding. 

Don’t Ruin Your Day

While I have had time to accept my error, I did spend a lot of time over-thinking this fine. As much as I wanted the ticketing agent to forgive my oversight, to sympathize with a foreign tourist and see that I wasn’t doing anything malicious with my un-validated ticket, the truth is I failed to follow the local system rules. I had to deal with the consequences. Even if paying a fine on top of the original ticket price felt wrong, that didn’t matter in this moment. I knew there were better ways that their validation system should work to prevent this: perhaps an announcement from the driver, a sign on the bus, or requiring riders to enter in the front and go by the validation machine. As an American, I think our agents tend to forgive the rider who makes an unintentional error. I certainly do not want to bring with me an indignant sense of entitlement abroad to cloud the fact that I made a mistake in Italy. No one wants to be an angry “Karen” when caught in the wrong.

The Tabacco shop in siena where I paid my fine

Paying the Fine

My options at the time of ticketing were: 1) I could give the ticketing officer my credit card on the street and immediately pay the fine using his portable reader or 2) he could print a paper ticket and I would have 6 days to pay it within Italy (at a tobacco shop!) before the fine would otherwise double and they would send a collection agency after me using my home address.

I wasn’t willing to risk paying the inflated $120 fine for a delayed payment due to my stubborn and bruised ego, so I took the paper ticket and paid at a tobacco shop of my choosing the next day. I considered just not paying it, but then I envisioned a security agent at the airport the next time I tried to enter Italy taking me aside to a back room to pointing out my name on some long Italian black-list of delinquent travelers. I decided to bite the bullet and pay my fine before it became a worse situation. I will note that it was a minor consolation the cashier at the tobacco shop was sincerely sympathetic as she helped me process my payment. 

You live, you learn!

Bari, Italy: Puglia's Lively Capital

Italy can inspire even the grumpiest person to crack a big smile. Boiling over with history, art, natural beauty, and remarkably scrumptious food, it simply checks all the feel-good boxes. Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan draw in some of the world’s largest tourist crowds each year. But there is another part of Italy that might appeal more to your sense of adventure, desire for authenticity, and search for the perfect aquamarine beach! This article is all about the wonderful Italian city of Bari, in the southeastern region of Puglia.

La Scaletta Beach outside Monopoli

BARI

The city of Bari, a place that flies under the average tourist’s radar, is much more than a capital city of the gorgeous Puglia region, or just a departure port for ferries crossing the Adriatic. I first thought I would visit Bari for a few hours, then want to quickly descend into the rest of Puglia to enjoy the quaint coastal towns and to escape urban hustle. Following an exciting first afternoon exploring Bari, I decided to stay a few additional days to soak it all up. Below are some takeaways from this recent stay.

Just The Right Size For Walking

Bari is a lovely medium-sized city (approx 300k); large enough to support excellent culinary and cultural options (including Teatro Petruzzelli, an ornate Theater-Opera house!), but also small and flat enough you can do it all on foot. The city sits directly on the Adriatic Sea, and is so pedestrian friendly they have even preserved and converted their ancient fortress/sea wall into the easily accessible pedestrian walkway, Via Venezia. This elevated pedestrian path allows you to encircle the old town while also looking out at the sea. You will find locals walking here and enjoying the dolce vita at all hours, but especially in the evenings where even on the most random weeknight, you will find thriving local life enjoying their gorgeous city.

Memorable Food

We know Italy has some of the best food around. This is true in Puglia and well-on-display throughout Bari. If you’re really interested in Italian pasta, you may have heard about the famous Pasta Grannies. Bari has a bunch of these internationally celebrated women who spend their days opening up their homes, setting out tables, and allowing pedestrians to sample and purchase freshly formed pasta like the famous Apuglian ear-shaped orecchiette.

There are several other special foods found easily directly from these street vendors: Fried polenta (sgagliozza), warm Barisian foccacia bread with cherry tomatoes, crispy rolled taralli bread, or deep-fried panzerotti (similar to a calzone), and others.

Classic Coffee & Pastry Bars

Something I love to do when visiting any new town is to figure out a list of all the best coffee shops. Sometimes that can look like sitting down with a colorful mug of 3rd Wave filtered coffee, delivered by hipsters in over-sized sweatshirts. But in Italy, I prefer to go where the old-timers go: an classic cafe or pastry shop. Bari is no exception to the Italian cafe stereotype you may be imagining, and you can easily discover these atmospheric cafe counters, where sharply-dressed baristas efficiently serve a line of locals, standing confidently with an espresso cup in hand. You have little choice but to join in on the tradition and leave your comfort zone behind.

My favorite spot in Bari is Pasticceria Rex dal 1960 with a close second going to Boccia Pasticceria (both pictured below).

Pasticceria Rex

Boccia Pasticceria

Local Street Culture

I touched on in the city’s walkability, but something you pick up on as you cross town multiple times are some unique aspects of a city’s street culture. In Bari, the city isn’t yet taken over by tourism. There are still old Italian families living on the small streets of the ancient city’s interior. And those people live out on the streets in a way I haven’t often seen in a capital city. You will see families extending their living rooms out onto the city streets. They use mops to clean the gorgeous stone streets, placing out dining and card tables, leaving children’s toys out, and of course decorating the walls outside their front doors with personal and local items such as flowering cactus leaves, religious figures, ribbons, and balloons.

Basilica di San Nicola from the Via Venezia

Bari’s old town is an endlessly charming maze

History

As a port city on the Adriatic sea, Bari has a long history, touched by many cultures, but mainly that of old Greek and Roman rule. Bari is currently home to the giant 11th-century Basilica di San Nicola, a key pilgrimage site, that still holds the remains of St. Nicholas. The old town is full of reminders of the past, all on open public display: from incredibly narrow streets, to countless ancient chapels and unmarked hefty columns preserved in place after old roofs and walls proved less sturdy. Also, you can find reused stone relics from these lost walls, like a carving of Mother Mary placed randomly on its side to construct a back alley stairwell. Even a section of ancient Roman road sits unearthed. So many opportunities to reach out and touch history.

Location Location Location

Puglia may seem a little isolated when you look at the map, but don’t let that discourage you. Located southeast from most of Italy’s major tourist spots, it could be considered a trek when compared to other accessible tourist zones throughout Italy. But, if you are coming from Rome, there are frequent fast trains to Bari, and in just 4 relaxing hours (I suggest reserving the quiet train car), you will walk out into another world that is Puglia, and the zany crowds of Rome will quickly fade into memory. Bari and Brindisi also host small airports if you’re hoping to Puglia from another city in Europe, but I came directly by train from Florence and found the trip enjoyable. I suggest using Bari as a base for exploring the smaller coastal and mountain towns of Pulgia. Day trip-worthy hot-spots include Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, Ostuni, Lecce, and Matera.

An ancient post in the Bari Old City, once used to tie up criminals for public humiliation

Fishing boat at the Harbor, a place you can watch fishermen selling their daily catch

When to Visit Puglia

I found a way to make this wonderful place even better: visit in October. After two weeks of exploration around Italy by train this October, I don’t think I will ever return in any another season. Olives are starting to drop from the trees, weather is ideal, and it’s noticeably less crowded. Unless you’re a fan of sweating through multiple shirts a day or are searching for holiday markets, just trust me on this one and book your next trip in October.

I spent a summer studying in Italy as a college student, and I recall the pleasure — and also the absolute need— for mid-day naps. This wonderful Italian tradition serves as a cool escape from the intimidating strength of the southern summer sunshine. While naps are fun, sunny days that don’t absolutely destroy your energy levels are infinitely better when you actually want to explore all that Italy has to offer. I would gladly trade long, scorching summer days for 70 degree comfort. This is what I found all over Italy in October, but especially in the southern area of Puglia, where the beaches were still gorgeous and warm, but didn’t make me want to nap under the shade of the nearest beach cave.

A sunbather on the coast just south of Bari Province’s Gorgeous city of Monopoli

A Very French Camino: An Introduction to The Via Podiensis

I was inspired to walk the Camino after visiting Santiago de Compostela, the Spanish town famous for being the destination of pilgrims across Europe since the 9th Century. The cathedral there is said to house the relics and remains of Saint James, and while this fact didn’t inspire me personally, the spirit of the Camino is palpable and something I wanted to be a part of. I already loved Europe, long walks, and challenging travel adventure, so I could easily imagine myself on a pilgrimage. However, when I first decided I wanted to walk the Camino, I didn’t realize just how many choices I would have when the time came to actually plan my adventure.

A map of the 4 main Camino trails through France, The Via Podiensis highlighted

Many Camino Options

The most popular Camino route is called The Frances, which begins in a French town called St Jean Pied-de-Port, but after the departure day, it is a walk across the northern section of Spain. After a bit of research, I discovered there were many official Camino trails extending all over Europe. They exist mainly in Portugal, Spain, Italy, and France, but they even stretch beyond to the UK, Germany, and Poland. Depending on the type of experience you seek, any one of these trails could be your ideal Camino. This article stands as my case in amplifying the wonders of the Via Podiensis, the Camino that stretches across southern France.

The Via Podiensis

The Via Podiensis, also known as the Le Puy Route, is approximately 750 km (or 466 miles) and lies entirely within the country of France. It officially begins in the mountain town of Le Puy and ends in St. Jean Pied-de-Port, where some pilgrims choose to continue walking through Spain to Santiago so they can collect their official Compostela certificate. Below I will highlight the many reasons I chose to walk the Via Podiensis, and why I would encourage you to, too!

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The Perks of the Via Podiensis

A Quieter Experience

The Via Podiensis begins in Le Puy, a small town with dramatic volcanic rock spires and a cathedral on a hill that will launch you into your Camino like no other place can. This town, like St. Jean Pied-de-Port where the Frances route begins, is more or less dedicated to the Camino and just arriving into town you truly feel like you are properly oriented to your Camino experience. There’s a special 7 AM daily service at the cathedral where you will have a chance to meet other pilgrims, then depart together in a unique ceremony. But once you’re on the trail and the town of Le Puy is behind you, you will see that this trail is not only safe and quiet, but also wonderfully marked with clear signage and even bathrooms and water spouts aplenty. You will feel truly well-cared for by the Camino and the surrounding communities. And of course your fellow pilgrims are always a source of information and assistance if needed. What I love most about the Via Podiensis, is it’s a trail that will give you true peace of mind in a remarkable setting.

An “Older” Experience

The walkers on the Via Podiensis certainly come in all ages. I met college students up through retired couples. However, I think it’s important to mention that those walking this trail tend to trend older than what you’ll see on the Spanish Caminos. It turns out it’s very popular in France for retired people and groups of friends to walk sections of the Via Podiensis for fun. I can’t blame them as the experience is sublime and you can go at your own pace, but if you’re looking to meet dozens of 20-somethings on the trail ready to mingle, you may want to consider walking the popular Frances route instead. Knowing this in advance, I understood the Via Podiensis wouild make the most sense for me and what I was looking for in a Camino. I’m married, middle-aged, and was interested in a quieter trail, so I was thankful to have the many Camino options and selected the Via Podiensis!

French Gîte Culture: All About The Food

France takes its dinnertime rituals very seriously. The gîte (the French word for hiker’s hostels lining the Camino trail) owners across the Via Podiensis typically offer a “demi-pension” lodging option, which is certainly what most pilgrims are looking for. It’s a chance to eat a delicious home-cooked meal around 7 PM, have a nice shower/bed, and then some quick breakfast in the morning before you start your walk. It’s a lot of work for the gîte owners, but for the pilgrim, you are welcomed in the afternoon after a tiring day on the trail, and offered immediate comfort and care. This could include an aperitif cocktail, a cool foot soak, or a poolside lounge chair. There is no limit to the types of gites in France, but most tend to be smaller than the hostels you find in Spain. You can almost guarantee you’ll leave the next morning having eaten a wonderful hot meal and have made a few more friends around the dinner table sharing local wine and personal stories about the day.

The Beauty of Southern France

The Via Podiensis has a very appealing placement through gorgeous and lesser-known regions of southern France. Camino walkers on the Via Podiensis often have to come first to the city of Lyon (either flying directly there or taking a train there from Paris) prior to taking a train to Le Puy. This provides a wonderful opportunity to acclimate to a new time zone by exploring the fabulous “foodie” city of Lyon. Also, the Via Podiensis ends near the cities of Bayonne, Biarritz, and Bordeaux giving you a reason to acquaint yourself with France’s lesser visited but absolutely remarkable cities on the Atlantic coast. I found myself falling in love with both Lyon and Bordeaux on either side of my Camino adventure, and am so grateful.

But aside from these urban delights, the towns you walk through daily on the Via Podiensis are small and appear like something out of Beauty and the Beast. Le Puy, Conques, Cahors, Lauzerte, Auvillar, and Lectoure, to name a few, will satisfy any and all desire you may have to find yourself in a quiet slice of medieval France where you will have the chance to drink a glass of wine in an ancient city square while you contemplate the gorgeous stretch of land you traversed that day.

Escape America(ns) and Learn French

This point was very appealing to me. The Caminos outside Spain tend to have more locals and fewer American tourists. Since I am a francophile who studied French in school, I knew I would embrace the chance to practice and build upon my language skills. And this of course is done best by putting myself at intimate dinner tables surrounded by actual French people. One thing to know about the Frances Camino in Spain, is there are so many international pilgrims that the common language tends to be English. While this makes things easy for anglophones, one big reason to walk the Camino for me, was to put myself into a different culture and out of my comfort zone completely. The Via Podiensis is the perfect balance of comfort (see the gite/food section above!) and challenge (the daily walk and social interactions in France!). But if you don’t speak any French, you’ll still find a excellent experience with patient and kind pilgrims willing to help. Most people have some knowledge of English in France, but it does put pressure on you to learn at least some basics!

Similarities to the Frances Camino in Spain

You may fear that walking on the Via Podiensis will lack some of the spirit or community found in Spain. I shared some of this same fear myself. However, the Via Podiensis offers both a traditional Camino experience, but also something that is more unique and rare: the chance to focus in on making connections over delicious French food and wine while you walk mainly with Europeans.

The Via Podiensis is part of the same established Camino path that pilgrims have walked for hundreds of years on their way to Santiago de Compostela. You will be able to collect pilgrim passport stamps and wear a scallop shell just like other Santiago pilgrimages. The biggest differences are listed in this article, around your fellow pilgrims and the experience you’ll have in the evening hostels.

The decision of which Camino you choose comes down to what kind of experience is the best fit for you. All Camino pilgrims seek, no matter the trail, friendly and inclusive trail interactions mixed with time for introspection, so rest assured you will get everything out of this Camino that you put into it. You can easily make excellent connections with French pilgrims and also have more than enough time to contemplate life, history, and the beauty of Europe. Like I did, always consider your options!

Are you planning a Camino pilgrimage and want to learn more about what to pack? See my article on creating the ultimate Camino packing list.

The Ultimate Packing List for Walking the Camino de Santiago

If you are planning to walk on the Camino de Santiago, you must inevitably create a shopping and packing list. I did this over the summer as I prepared for a solo September walk on the Via Podiensis Camino across southern France. Every item you carry should be considered with discretion because it’s not just about utility, but also the collective weight on your back (and joints and feet) that will help determine the ease in which you’ll walk hundreds of miles.

You should aim to bring everything you think you will actually need and nothing more. But, keep in mind you will likely forget something essential and need to buy it during your first days in Europe. Don’t worry– you will easily find it there. Additionally, if this is your first Camino, you will be tempted to bring too many items and may need to ditch something along the way. Prepare yourself mentally and financially for this inevitability.

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THE LIST:

Edited post-Camino to include just essentials.

✅ Backpack: 35-40 L size hiking bag

✅ Trail / Hiking Shoes: be sure to buy one size up from your normal shoe– your toes should not touch the end. I like the Altra or Hoka brands.

✅ Sandals: This is an absolute must. You must leave your trail shoes in the entry of most hostels, so having the sandals both gives you something to wear in the evenings to dinner but also provides feet a needed break from your day shoes. I recommend Teva or Bedrock brands.

✅ Lightweight Hiking Pants: 1 pair with or without detachable shorts. I personally dislike convertible pants as they tend to be cut awkwardly large around the knee to accommodate the zipper.

✅ 2 x Hiking Shorts: I used Patagonia’s 8” Trail Shorts and plan to continue using them.

✅ 4 x Hiking Socks: I love the Darn Tough brand, made in Vermont.

✅ 4 x Underwear: I recommend Outdoor Research’s Men’s Boxer Briefs.

✅ 3 x T-Shirts: made of quick-dry athletic material.

✅ Long Sleeve Shirt: made of thermal/ technical material. I ended up using the REI Co-op Active Pursuits Quarter-Zip Shirt. I would wear it every chilly morning and it was stretchy and easy to strip off when things warmed up. I never used my other long-sleeve shirt on my trip, but would have if I did my walk in colder months.

✅ Lightweight Rain Jacket: or a poncho

✅ Lightweight Jacket : This is for any surprise chilly weather, and could be a light puffer or fleece jacket. If walking May - September you can skip this item. I never used mine and regretted taking it, as the rain jacket could be used instead, layered with a long-sleeve top.

✅ Sun Hat: I used the REI Co-op Sahara Cap with built-in neck cape for sun protection. You will be walking west so the sun is often just behind you! This ended up being an essential item.

✅ Small Packable Daypack: This is a practical item that can add very little weight to your pack. I bought a 4oz , 18L Naturehike bag and used it to carry things around anytime I wasn’t on the trail. This also works great as a personal bag for air travel and rest days.

✅ Toiletry Bag: I liked the small one from LL Bean with just the right amount of pockets and a hanging hook option.

✅ 3 - 4 x Travel Bottles: for all liquids you bring. This should be a 3.4 oz size to comply with air travel requirements.

✅ Shampoo: put in a travel bottle

✅ Body Soap: put in a travel bottle

✅ Face Cream with SPF: put in a travel bottle

✅ Toothbrush & Toothpaste: a 2.5 oz tube is the ideal size for a month

✅ Nail Clippers & Tweezers: you want to keep your toe nails trim.

✅ OTC Pain Medicines: acetaminophen and ibuprofen. I used these some evenings to treat general muscle pain, and more often toward the end of the trip when I developed shin splints.

✅ Band Aids: include various shapes and sizes for covering toe blisters

✅ Compeed / Moleskin / Tape: for blister care

✅ Sewing Kit (w/needle!): I used this to empty blisters and also to sew on Camino backpack patches! 

✅ Foot Lubricant: prevents chafing and blisters inside socks. It seems to work, and I wish I used mine more.

✅ 3 x Ultralight Dry Sacks: I was so glad to have these as I used them to keep my clean clothes separate and protected, and to create order in my otherwise messy backpack. 

✅ Water Bottle 1L: I used a collapsible one with a carabiner from Vapur. 

✅ Quick Dry Towel 

✅ 6 x Ziplock bags: for keeping small items dry like pills, bandaids, passports, etc.

✅ Twin Bed Sheet & Pillowcase: the bed sheet was enough for France, but I understand that in Spain it is better to have more mattress protection, so most bring a sleeping bag liner instead.

✅ Portable Charger: for cell phone backup power. I used Anker brand.

✅ Clothes Washing Detergent Strips: I used Breezeo and about 20 strips were enough for a month.

✅ Trail Guide / Map

✅ Essential Documents: printed itinerary, flight Info, copies of passport, etc

✅ Essential Cards: ATM card, credit card, driver's license

✅ Passport: must be valid for 6 months beyond your departure date.

✅ Pilgrim Passport: if you acquire prior to arrival in Europe, otherwise found easily in your departure city.

✅ Phone & Charger Cord

✅ 2 x Europe Converter Plugs : 2 small

OPTIONAL: 

✅ Earphones

✅ Diary & Pen 

✅ Eye Mask

✅ Earplugs

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MORE ADVICE: 

TOTAL PACK WEIGHT: The total weight of your full pack plus 1 liter of water should be 20-lbs, max. Mine was just over 20lbs and I had the heaviest bag of the folks I encountered on the trail. Do yourself a huge favor and fill up your bag and weigh it. What you think you’ll bring a few weeks prior to your trip almost never is what you actually end up walking with once reality sets in!

THE SHOES: I read countless Camino discussion forum musings on footwear preferences: mainly hiking boots, hiking shoes, and trail shoes (even hiking sandals!). Now, there are those who have personal requirements for ankle support, and those people should probably opt for hiking boots. On the other hand, there are those who feel more confident in their stability and choose the lighter trail shoe.

This choice was actually a difficult one for me. As an almost-fit man squarely between my youthful years and retirement age, I felt like I was taking a slight risk when I decided to bring uber light trail shoes (Altra Lone Peak 6). First of all, I had never purchased them before, and second, my long history of hiking had always included sturdy leather boots. Long story short, I was sold on the trail shoes because they allow the toes to splay and breathe better, which can result in blister prevention. I got a few blisters anyway, but was glad for the extra toe space and quick-drying material.

THE BACKPACK: Backpack selection is important. You likely already know that you should not bring a large and heavy camping pack. The Camino is a through-hike, meaning you will walk for weeks at a time and not for a short camping trip. Also, you will likely not be lugging a heavy tent, stove, and food supply, instead, you will pack as light as possible and get food and rest daily from establishments on route. For most, a 30-40L pack is ideal. You will want help from an expert at an outdoor store like REI, as it’s essential you find a pack that sits properly on your hips and shoulders to provide you with ideal weight distribution and support. Many Americans choose a lightweight Osprey backpack, but I also saw a few Gregory packs on the trail.

EVERYTHING ELSE: Selecting the various smaller items is what can be the fun part, and this is where creating the above checklist helped me not forget anything over several months of planning. I say it’s fun because I enjoyed tracking these all down over time, and where you can spend some time making choices based on your personal taste. There are many items to buy and thankfully most are somewhat inexpensive and therefore less heartbreaking if you have to lighten your load mid-Camino. It helped me to know there are sports shops in the larger towns along the Camino where countless people end up purchasing shoe inserts, replacement socks, knee braces, or shampoo. I discovered the selection and prices in France and Spain, at Decathlon for example, were totally reasonable, and in fact around half the cost of similar items in Seattle.

LIGHTWEIGHT & QUICK DRY MATERIALS: I constantly kept weight in mind while shopping, reading once that someone was so desperate to shave off weight during the camino, that they sawed off the handle of their toothbrush. This visual helped me as I left behind my favorite cotton shirts and underwear, packing instead nearly weightless synthetic versions. And of course I recommend you leave behind that hardcover copy of Eat, Pray, Love. 

PILGRIM PASSPORT: Learning of this tradition was initially confusing, as I worried I would need to go through an awkward process akin to joining the Catholic church to be anointed pilgrim status. Eventually, I realized either the pilgrim passport can easily be purchased for a few dollars in your Camino town of departure, or you can even order one online beforehand. I received one for free from the American Pilgrims on the Camino organization, though it took a month for it to arrive. I ended up using one from my departure city in France because it felt more unique and authentic to the Camino I had chosen.

You may wonder how easy it will be to get passport stamps on a daily basis. Will you need to knock on ancient village church doors and beg? I will discuss this in a future article, but let me reassure you— it’s easy. You can always get a stamp at your evening place of sleep, even in most hotels, along with many other spots around each trail village, like tourist offices and cafes.

Is there anything missing from my list that you would have brought along? Let me know!

Vermont: A Serene Escape From COVID-19

The Connecticut River at McIndoe Falls, Vermont

When a global pandemic descended after spending months perfecting the itinerary for an epic honeymoon to Portugal, I at first reacted badly. I walked around Brooklyn (masked, of course) avoiding everyone, not only to do my part and reduce the risk of coronavirus spread, but to also hide my grief. It quickly became obvious that if I was to leave New York City this year, it was going to be on a road trip to somewhere safe. 

I grew up in a rural Vermont/New Hampshire border village, so my mind often wanders north when I think of a stress-free city escape. And with a pandemic putting absolutely everyone on edge, time in the woods sounded like the perfect plan.

Vermont responded brilliantly to the COVID-19 virus: They shut down non-essential businesses and the community acted quickly while respecting new public health initiatives. Out-of-state visitors were prohibited without a 14-day quarantine, which was fairly strict compared with other rural American states with low coronavirus numbers. While I did not wish to bring disease with me from NYC, I knew I could travel there safely by car and quarantine at my parents’ house until I could take a nasal swab test. The trip was a huge success and the highlights are featured below by regions visited.

The Northeast Kingdom 

The Northeast Kingdom, a romantic name for Vermont’s northeastern corner, is a region known for its sparse population, gorgeous hiking trails and remote lakes, as well as the sense that you’ve successfully escaped modern times and returned to a New England you thought was long gone. 

St. Johnsbury, VT

Dog Mountain in St. Johnsbury, Vermont

St Johnsbury is the heart of the Northeast Kingdom and one of my favorite stops in St J is Dog Mountain. The artist Stephen Huneck created a successful art business based here 25 years ago and since his untimely death, his expansive property and studio have been converted into a sanctuary for dogs and dog-lovers. I do not have a dog, but I love walking the hilltop trails, listening to bullfrogs in the ponds, and admire Huneck’s art in the public gallery and chapel.

St. Johnsbury Athenaeum Art Gallery

As a high school student at St. Johnsbury Academy in the 1990’s, my favorite place to sit and do homework after school was the town Athenaeum. It’s a wonderfully preserved public library built in 1871. Stop in to appreciate the work of the Fairbanks family, an entrepreneurial Vermont family that gave back generously to the community. Don’t miss the art gallery in the back where you can admire the gigantic Albert Bierstadt painting titled Domes of the Yosemite.

Barnet and Peacham, VT

Harvey Lake in Barnet Vermont

The town of Peacham holds an unbelievable record of being the most photographed small town in Vermont. You must drive through during summer or fall to truly understand the appeal of Peacham and neighboring Barnet’s rolling hills and perfect farm houses. I recommend taking a dip in Harvey Lake or walking through the scenic old graveyard at Barnet Center Cemetery.

Lake Willoughby, VT

Lake Willoughby as seen from Mount Pisgah in Northern Vermont

The Northeast Kingdom hides one of nature’s greatest creations, Lake Willoughby. Carved out by a giant glacier, the narrow and deep lake stays cold and fresh all year long. You will be rendered speechless as you visit beaches on the north or south end of the lake and gaze out at the water’s serenity and exciting charms of the cliff faces of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor looming overhead. You might get lucky and hear the warble of the local loons that regularly nest on this remote  lake. If hiking is your thing, Mount Pisgah has a gorgeous hike that takes you past ponds, boulders, rock faces, and unforgettable overlooks.

The Upper Valley

 Straddling the Connecticut River, The Upper Valley of New Hampshire and Vermont offer well-preserved historic villages, plus a bit more hustle-bustle compared to the Northeast Kingdom up the road. Best known as the home of Dartmouth College, Queechee Gorge, or the renowned King Arthur Baking Company. This region deserves at least a day of your time as you bop around Hanover, NH, Norwich, VT and Woodstock, VT.

Hanover, NH

Dartmouth Hall

After you spend some time admiring the campus buildings surrounding the Dartmouth College Green (and possibly visiting the Baker Library’s stunning Orozco Room murals), you may need a special place to grab coffee or food. Lou’s Restaurant & Bakery is both an ultimate comfort food destination and an essential Dartmouth institution. If you want less American diner and more Irish pub vibes, then head over to Murphy’s On The Green for excellent bar food.

College towns often have ample coffee shops and Hanover is no exception. Stop into Dirt Cowboy Cafe for a hot cup of their specialty brew sourced from around the globe. My favorite is the Ethiopian Harrar. Umpleby’s Bakery Cafe is newer to the Hanover scene, but is already a favorite due to it’s quality sandwiches, pastry, caffeinated drinks and bright, ample seating areas.

Woodstock / Queechee, VT

Covered Bridge in Woodstock, Vermont

Twenty minutes down the road, the neighboring towns of Woodstock and Quechee (pronounced “kwee-chee”) mix natural beauty and historic splendor. Driving over Quechee Gorge might make you feel a twinge of vertigo as you glance into the surprisingly deep valley cut through dense forest, with a moody river far below. If you’re curious about such things, park in one of the lots at the end of the bridge and view the gorge more closely via the bridge edge or by carefully walking the path down through the forest.

As you head west on Route 4, you’ll want to stop at Simon Pearce. This old mill was converted into a glass blowing studio, retail shop, and high-end restaurant over the course of the past 40 years by a skilled artisan from Ireland. Even if hand-blown glass isn’t your thing, it’s a wonderful place to stop just to walk around the mill building and feel the power of the raging river beside you.

A popular destination for tourists, the historic town of Woodstock is small but extremely charming. It feels as though you are walking into a 19th Century movie set of the perfect New England town. Stroll across the Woodstock Covered Bridge and stop into the Cafe into the Mon Vert Cafe for a treat.

Norwich, VT

A visit to the Upper Valley is not complete unless you stop in Norwich to visit both their famous general store, Dan & Whit's, and the quaint Norwich Inn next door. The pub behind Norwich Inn, Jasper Murdock's Alehouse, is small but provides a warm atmosphere. I like stopping in for a drink at the bar where you feel not as much in an inn, but in a historic local pub.

The White Mountains

A stay in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom puts you conveniently alongside the gorgeous, protected White Mountain region across the river in New Hampshire. The gateway to this highland region is a town called Littleton, with a bustling downtown full of adorable shops, antiques, breweries, and a trusty diner. 

Littleton, NH

Schilling Beer Company in Littleton, NH

Littleton has been known for a long time as a outdoor enthusiast mecca. Over the past 15 years, Littleton has grown with the times and has become home to a few quality places to eat and drink. Schilling Beer Company took over a 18th Century grist mill and started making various European-style beers and snacks. I recommend trying their house made pizza or pretzels while you sit gazing at the swirling Ammonoosuc River below.

Fudge Counter at Chutters in Littleton

Mere steps from Schilling, you can pick up more sweetness than you can handle, at either the Doughnut Cellar or the long candy counter at Chutters candy store. With your treats in hand, stroll across the river through the Riverwalk Covered Bridge then meander along the banks of the Ammonoosuc where you will certainly find your zen.

Franconia / Sugar Hill / Lincoln, NH

Just a few minutes down the road from Littleton, you will find the heart of the White Mountains. The bucolic town of Sugar Hill hides away an insider cult favorite breakfast stop, Polly’s Pancake Parlor. This pancake parlor is huge, allowing you to look over the nearby mountains while you try a fun variety of pancakes and waffles, with of course local maple syrup and spreads on the side.

Polly’s Pancake Parlor in Sugar Hill, NH

Another 15 minutes down the road you will come to a cluster of New Hampshire State Parks, and my top choice: the trails at The Flume Gorge. The forests and streams within The Flume transport you to the New Hampshire from the brochures; Impossibly verdant with daunting rock formations and rushing water. The Flume trails are not difficult to hike, and the loop takes approximately one hour.

The Flume in Lincoln, NH

Central Vermont

Central Vermont has a very popular tourist town, Stowe, made famous by a ski resort and with some help from the von Trapp family of The Sound of Music, who built a home and resort hotel after their escape from Europe. Ben & Jerry’s ice cream also opened their factory in neighboring Waterbury (same exit off of I-89), making the visit to this area both a cultural and delicious destination.

Stowe / Waterbury, VT

The Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe is worth a stay if you have a little extra cash, but if not, you can always drop on by anyway to view the impressive gardens or to taste local Austrian-inspired beer and snacks at the von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall. I find that just visiting the lodge with it’s dark chalet-style architecture, makes me want to watch Sound of Music and spend more time getting to know this fascinating musical family that has thrived in Vermont since the 1940s.

Since local beer and food are both clearly a focus when I travel through Vermont, I discovered in Downtown Stowe an excellent brewery called Idyltime Brewing Company that has created a large outdoor garden for distanced drinking.

For outdoor enthusiasts, my favorite hike in Stowe is The Stowe Pinnacle Trail. This popular hike takes a couple hours and has some steep moments, but the rewarding views at the top make it well worth the effort.

Fine dining may not come to mind when you think of Vermont, but in a state with such quality comfort food and drink, you will indeed find a few elevated dining options, like Hen of the Wood-Waterbury. This is the place you might go for an anniversary dinner or when you might want to pop the question to your significant other. Their food is so consistently good, you may get caught up in the meal and forget to take photos of your special moment.

If you’re in Vermont in summer, Creemees (soft serve ice cream) will be on every local’s mind and tongue. The very best can be found at Canteen Creemee Company in Waitsfield or Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho.

Maple Creemee at Canteen Creemee Company

Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho, Vermont

Burlington

Vermont’s Queen City, Burlington is one place I return to every year. In the One Day In Burlington article I wrote last year, I covered my favorite Burlington spots, but this summer I discovered a few more:

As you already know, Vermont is well known for being both beautiful and green, so naturally visitors and locals alike spend a lot of time outdoors. If you’re a lover of gardening, visit the ginormous Gardener's Supply Company in Williston and start envisioning a back-to-nature kind of life you could lead in Vermont. The garden center can work to whet your appetites, but hitting some unpaved trails will really allow you to appreciate the nature of Vermont. I researched deeply and decided to go on three rejuvenating hikes and one epic bike ride:

• A bucolic walk throughout the farmland estate and coastline of Shelburne Farms

• A rewarding vista from the top of Mt. Philo State Park in Charlotte

• A bike ride along Lake Champlain up the Island Line Trail using rented bikes from Local Motion Bike Rentals in Burlington

• A woods to lake trail at Niquette Bay State Park in Colchester that featured several Pileated Woodpeckers

Grazing Cows at Shelburne Farms, Vermont

Lake Champlain at Shelburne Farms

After a rewarding day in nature, explore the hip Winooski food and drink scene! I enjoyed a wonderful walk around the Winooski River and then devoured lobster rolls at Waterworks Food & Drink. Finally, find the energy for an after-dinner drink at one of WInooski’s hip cocktail bars, Misery Loves Co. or Mule Bar.

As is true after every trip to Vermont, I returned to the big city both completely rested and reinvigorated. I promise that if you try some of the above advice, that you, too, will find yourself re-energized and ready to fight a novel coronavirus and other pressing injustices of our modern world.

Burlington Waterfront at Sunset

One Day in Puebla, Mexico

Recognized as a cultural, artistic, and culinary hot-spot, Puebla is the kind of travel destination that immediately feels both unique and essential. For a small city, there’s a surprising amount to see and do. Buildings are commonly decorated with tiles or brightly-painted surfaces, making Puebla a photographer’s dream. When I visited in January, I rode the bus down from Mexico City early in the morning and returned at dinnertime. The trip exceeded every expectation, but when I return, I will be sure to spend the night in town so I can experience more of its culinary gems and gorgeous hotels.

HOW TO GET THERE FROM MEXICO CITY

Puebla is easily accessible by bus from the TAPO Bus Terminal, also known as Terminal Oriente, alongside the San Lázaro Metro station in Mexico City. A one-way ticket on Estrella Roja or ADO from the TAPO Terminal usually costs about $160 to $200 MXN for direct service to Puebla’s main CAPU station (<$10 USD). Buses leave for Puebla approximately every fifteen minutes and the entire trip takes 2 hours. If you book a bus ticket in advance, you should download the ADO Móvil app on your phone, as booking and payment are simpler using the app.

TAPO Bus Station in MExico City

Gorgeous scenery from the bus of Volcanic mountains!

COFFEE AND LUNCH

When you arrive in Puebla, you’ll need to find your way to the historic town center. Take note that if you arrive by bus, you will not be within easy walking distance. I recommend using a ride sharing app such as Uber, as the walk would take one hour and Uber will only cost a couple dollars.

Cafe Cultura: Calle 4 Sur 506, Centro, 72000 Puebla, Mexico

To pep yourself up after the day’s journey, a quick coffee should do the trick! Our favorite spot for coffee was the Cafe Cultura, with a comfortable and casual atmosphere that allowed us to sit down, charge our phones, and plan out our day in the spacious living room-style seating area.

Profética: Calle 3 Sur 701, Centro, 72000 Puebla, Mexico

For a wonderful lunch in a sunny courtyard, head to the Profética bookstore and cafe. We ordered authentic Pueblan tortas (sandwiches) and enchiladas. I wish we could have spent longer just sitting in the pleasant setting, people-watching and listening to the fountain.

Profética Bookshop And Cafe

ACTIVITIES AND MUSEUMS

Puebla was founded during the colonial era due to it’s strategic location on the road between Mexico City and the port city of Veracruz. Since the 1980s, the city has been a World Heritage site, and is celebrated for its architecture and educational institutions. During our one day in Puebla, we made our way to several important sites that we would label as must-sees. A few favorites are described below.

Palafoxian Library: Av 5 Ote 5, Centro, 72000 Puebla

This hidden gem is actually fairly well-hidden! When you walk into the building, go through the courtyard and take the stairs up to the second floor where you need to purchase a ticket to enter this historical one-room library. I guarantee this library will take you right out of time, with every historic detail preserved and polished.

Palafoxian Library

Museo Casa de Alfeñique: Av. 4 Ote. No.416, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Our favorite stop of the day was this quirky and romantic home-turned-museum. You will learn a bit of history as you walk throughout the museum, each room more fascinating than the one before. Be sure to find the small chapel and kitchen, and do admire the hand-painted tiles that abound on the floors, stairways, balconies, and walls.

Museo Casa de Alfeñique

Capilla del Rosario: Victoria del 5 de Mayo, Centro, 72000 Puebla (in Templo de Santo Domingo)

Another hidden gem, you will enter this golden 17th Century chapel through the Santo Domingo church. Gilded floor to ceiling, this entire church and chapel will leave you dazzled by the craftsmanship and resources that went into every inch of its interior.

Templo de Santo Domingo

Capilla del Rosario

ADDITIONAL CULTURAL SITES

Catedral de Puebla: C. 16 de Septiembre s/n, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Puebla’s main cathedral, located on the central square. Worth a quick visit.

Museo Amparo: Av 2 Sur 708, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Fantastic museum with a collection that spans from pre-Columbian artifacts to contemporary. Do not miss the roof top views.

Museo Universitario Casa de los Muñecos: Calle 2 Nte 2, Centro, 72000 Puebla

University museum featuring both arts and science.

SHOPPING

Callejon De Los Sapos: 0052 El Callejon De Los Sapos, 72000 Puebla

Translates to Alley of the Frogs. Open air market for exploration, mainly for local crafts and antiques.

Calle del Dulce: Av 6 Ote 209, Centro, 72000 Puebla.

A street with many traditional candy shops.

Talavera de la Luz: Av. Don Juan de Palafox y. Mendoza 1413, Barrio de Analco, 72500 Puebla

Gorgeous shop featuring high quality hand-painted ceramics. Worth the stroll out of the city center.

Uriarte Talavera: Av. 4 Pte. 911, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Arts shop with high quality, hand-painted ceramics.

Talavera de la Luz

FOOD AND DRINK

Casareyna Restaurante: Privada 2 Ote. 1007, Centro, 72000 Puebla

A nice hotel restaurant known for both ambiance and excellent food.

El Mural de los Poblanos: 16 de Septiembre 506, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Quality local food in the town’s historic center. Get your mole here!

Las Ranas Taqueria: Av 2 Pte 105, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Best tacos in Puebla!

La Pasita: Av 5 Ote 602, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Casual hot spot to sample traditional Mexican alcoholic beverages.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel La Purificadora: Paseo de San Francisco, Calle 10 Nte. 802, Barrio del Alto, 72000 Puebla

Azul Talavera Hotel: Calle 10 Nte. 1402, Barrio del Alto, 72000 Puebla

Quinta Real Puebla: Av 7 Pte 105, Centro, 72000 Puebla

Trip Planning and the 2020 Coronavirus Pandemic

Brooklyn Bridge Without Crowds During Coronavirus Pandemic

It’s April 2020 and I am one of the millions on lockdown inside a small New York City apartment, dreaming of the day the world will be safe enough to open up again. The coronavirus/COVID-19 pandemic is in full swing and like most of us, I was thoroughly unprepared. Being a travel fanatic, I attempt to stay sane by focusing on the day I can get back to travel adventures and cuisines not cooked up in my tiny Brooklyn kitchen. 

Get Caught Up In Travel Research

So, what’s a travel nut to do when the world shuts down? I have spent more than enough time pondering this very question. The most productive thing to do is to stop wondering about when travel will be safe again and spend more energy on virtual exploration. As I have covered in my article on travel planning and creating travel maps, the planning stage is very nearly as exciting as the travel itself. Why not continue to discover and learn about travel by using travel blogs, Google Maps, and watching old travel shows on Netflix and YouTube? Keep building your lists of charming villages, quirky cafes, and exciting museums, even if your trip could be a year or more away.

Did You Already Book A Summer 2020 Trip And Don’t Know What To Do?

If you’re like me, you may have planned and paid for a summer 2020 trip before this pandemic began. My trip is booked to Portugal and Spain in late June, so I am currently waiting to see what will happen. Many airlines and home stay companies aren’t yet proactively refunding tickets for flights occurring mid-to-late-summer and purchased pre-pandemic. Experts agree you should keep waiting until closer to your departure month to see if the airline cancels your flight, or if the flights aren’t cancelled, they should kindly offers vouchers for later travel.

Signs in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park During Coronavirus Pandemic

Affordable Travel Alternatives To That Big International Trip

The travel industry may not recover for a long time (years, maybe) due to the enormous upset the coronavirus pandemic has caused. Many hotels and home stay flats may not re-open. Restaurants and cafes may not find funds to immediately serve again. And of course, a huge number of would-be travelers will be in a less financially secure place than they were a few months ago. 

So, while dreaming of far-off travel can help pass the time in isolation, you may want to also begin planning a more affordable, local escape for when restrictions ease in your region. This could very well be in the form of a road trip to someplace rural. Perhaps to my favorite bucolic state, Vermont? 

You’re Still Tempted To Book A Flight

You might be feeling like taking a risk and booking a cross-country flight since US airfare deals currently cost about as much as a dinner for two, just realize some of those low fares may not be fully refundable. Do not book anything with cancellation fees and always read the fine print. However, due to the low cost, it’s not a huge gamble. 

International fares are also cheap right now, but you take increased risks, even if federal restrictions are lifted and the flight occurs. If there’s a recurrence of the virus while you’re away, for example, you’ll risk having a trip ruined and the potential extra costs of getting yourself home in an emergency. Not to mention the frightening risks of getting sick while abroad.

If you are a risk-taker, book with an airline that offers free change and cancellation. Many major airlines in the U.S. are offering this right now if you buy a ticket before the end of May, 2020 for the upcoming year.

Be sure you pay for your travel with a credit card instead of a debit card. It is always much easier to get your money back if the airline ends up canceling your flight when you use a credit card.

Finally, hold off on other non-refundable purchases for any trip, like the hotel accommodations and tours. Only book these things when you're certain your trip will happen. Hotel costs are way down and there won’t be as many people traveling in the coming year, so if your trip does occur, you should not have to worry about expensive lodging rates or many crowds once you get there.

Stay safe out there, everyone!

Community Support for Essential Workers During NYC’s Coronavirus Lockdown

Teotihuacan Pyramids: The Ultimate Day Trip From CDMX

Do you like a good mystery? This one involves ancient pyramids, an abandoned city, and a feathered serpent deity. If I have caught your attention, then you must consider booking a trip to Mexico City to see the ancient Teotihuacan site, a pre-Columbian city that is now a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, just 25 miles from Mexico City. 

View from Pyramid of the Moon

No one really knows who built the Teotihuacan city, dating back to 600 BC and containing major pyramids, temples, sculpture, and the remains of residential buildings that at one point housed over one hundred thousand people in a thriving, thoughtfully designed city. The three largest and most famous pyramids located at Teotihuacan are the Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent).

Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent)

Although there’s no way to know exactly what happened to Teotihuacan, it’s possible that the civilization was wiped out by an agricultural disaster or a social uprising and subsequent burning of the entire town around 750 AD.

Pyramid of the Sun

HOW TO GET TO TEOTIHUACAN

There are frequent, inexpensive busses that will take you from Mexico City to the entrance to Teotihuacan, but if you’re traveling with one or two others, it will be fairly easy and economical to use an Uber car service, at the cost of approximately $30 each way. We asked our Uber driver to take us to the site entrance closest to the Pyramid of the Sun, and we enjoyed starting our day at Teotihuacan around 9AM just as it was opening to the public. 

Pyramid of the Moon

TIPS FOR A BETTER VISIT

Be sure you bring plenty of sunscreen, water, and maybe even a hat to protect you from the sun. The entire site requires a lot of walking and climbing out in the direct sun with very few places to find shade. Arriving first thing in the morning helps you not just to escape the crowd but allows you to begin your visit during a cooler part of the day. We were able to climb up the Pyramid of the Sun, the largest pyramid, before the hottest temperatures hit, and we were so glad as it would have been miserable in both high heat and heavy crowds. 

Approach Teotihuacan with patience. We are, thankfully, fit and able to climb stairs quickly, however, we saw several older or less able visitors struggling with their climbs. This will require some patience and understanding as you wait for others holding onto the ropes before you. I suggest you simply look around and appreciate a slower pace. There are beautiful, distant mountain ranges to appreciate, as well as stellar views of the entire Teotihuacan site below.

La Gruta

WHERE TO EAT LUNCH

There are several lunch spots you could choose from, all located on the perimeter of Teotihuacan and just a few minutes walk from the main parking lots. Most appear to provide basic Mexican fare and 99% of them are grandma’s kitchen casual. We were unsure if La Gruta, undoubtedly the most famous of the lunch spots, would match the hype. But after climbing down into the massive cave and sitting amongst the flickering candlelight lining the cave walls, we knew we had made the right choice. While the food is not as good as the remarkable places we ate at in Mexico City, it was a solid meal in an utterly unique setting.

La Gruta: Circuito Arqueologico, Avenida del Puente S/N, 55820 San Francisco Mazapa, Méx., Mexico

Where To Make Dinner Reservations in Mexico City

If you’re determined to eat at excellent local restaurants during your travels, then you probably do a lot of research and make dinner reservations well in advance. I did not always plan ahead for my meals abroad, but after an unfortunate Saturday evening spent searching the streets of rainy Paris for what felt like hours, I decided it would be the last time.

If I’m new to a city or visiting on a Thursday through Saturday, I travel with a long list of highly-regarded restaurants and a few dinner reservations made in advance. Sometimes I cancel my reservations depending on how the day turns out (you can’t tie me down!), but more often than not, my research and reservations save the day! It also gives me something to confidently anticipate throughout the day.

Mexico City is so famous for its food that I put a lot more time than usual into restaurant research. I consulted friends, articles, and blogs. I looked at hundreds of photos on Google Maps, Facebook, and Instagram pages. Below is the list of restaurants that excited me most. 

Where We Actually Had Dinner

Fonda Fina: Medellín 79, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Fonda Fina provided an ideal first meal the evening we arrived in CDMX. The menu had many classic Mexican dishes and really excelled at lively sauces and fresh ingredients. The restaurant had a warm, intimate feeling and the wait staff were very attentive. I recommend trying one of their fruity cocktails.

Fonda Fina

Contramar: Calle de Durango 200, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Contramar was our favorite dinner spot in CDMX. The restaurant decor was crisp and stylish, and the service was wonderfully attentive. If you love seafood, or even if you don’t, you still should prioritize Contramar for a special dinner in Mexico City.

Contramar

Contramar

Huset: Colima 256, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Huset appears to have it all; excellent decor, hip clientele, and fantastic food. The giant outdoor garden was special for this urban setting, providing fun, ambient lighting, lush plants, and a pebbled floor. We initially had made reservations to sit at the bar, but the night we visited, the evening was warm and the garden had space so we changed our minds. If you want a restaurant where you need a lift in your travel mood, then consider Huset and it’s lively garden and fun staff.

Huset

Pujol: Tennyson 133, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

We had to try the infamous Pujol. We understood it was expensive, even for us New Yorkers. However, we budgeted for it and went in with a very open mind. It turns out, you will certainly need an open mind during your visit to Pujol. The menus add several surprises and are guaranteed to introduce you to foods you have never encountered. Think sea urchin, algae, and ant larvae. I am certainly not very adventurous but sometimes it’s fun to just dive in and surrender to new and exotic foods as you leave your old self behind!

Pujol

Restaurants We Will Prioritize For Our Next Visit

Azul Historico: Isabel la Católica 30, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Cafe De Tacuba: Calle de Tacuba 28, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06010 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

La Docena: Av. Álvaro Obregón 31, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Do you have a favorite restaurant in Mexico City? Please let us know in the comments below!

The 2020 Guide To Seattle's Coffee Scene

Seattle, famous for its coffee obsession, offers a shocking number of excellent spots to grab a cuppa. My sister lives in Seattle and during my visits, I carve out plenty of time for coffee-sampling across town. On a recent visit to the Emerald City, I arrived determined to discover only the best-of-the-best in Seattle’s modern coffee scene.

I’m happy to report that I returned to New York on quite the caffeine buzz, and really excited to publish these findings.

Coffee and a Snack

If you’re like me, you head to a coffee shop to experience both coffee and a nibble. More often than not, that equation involves fresh pastry.

Below are my favorite coffee shops in Seattle that serve up both excellent coffee and house-made pastry options, too!

Coyle’s Bakeshop: 8300 Greenwood Ave N, Seattle, WA 98103

Coyle’s Bakeshop

Half and Half Doughnut Co.: 516 E Pike St, Seattle, WA 98122

Half and Half Doughnut Co.

Sugar Bakery & Coffeehouse: 110 Republican St, Seattle, WA 98109

Sugar Bakery & Coffeehouse

Caffeinate In Style

Seattle may not be known for a fashion scene (grunge, maybe?) but that does not mean the Seattle coffee shops are not stylish!

Check out the Seattle cafes where you can drink your coffee while appreciating the modern design of the space around you. And because Seattle has more space than most cramped East Coast cities, some of these coffee shops are impressive in their size and comfort!

Fulcrum Café: 590 Bell St, Seattle, WA 98121

Fulcrum Café

Milstead & Co.: 754 N 34th St, Seattle, WA 98103

Milstead & Co.

La Marzocco Cafe: 472 1st Ave N, Seattle, WA 98109

La Marzocco Cafe

Coffee and Productivity

Perhaps you get to work from “home” or must find a spot to study for an upcoming exam; these below coffee shops are excellent places to get something done. They each provide free wifi and the table space to encourage productivity.

Broadcast Coffee Roasters: 1918 E Yesler Way, Seattle, WA 98122

Broadcast Coffee Roasters

Capitol Coffee Works: 907 E Pike St, Seattle, WA 98122

Capitol Coffee Works

Storyville Coffee Pike Place: 94 Pike Street, Top, floor Suite 34, Seattle, WA 98101

Storyville Coffee Pike Place

Victrola Coffee Roasters: 310 E Pike St, Seattle, WA 98122

Victrola Coffee

Château La Coste: Art & Wine Getaway Near Aix-en-Provence

Larry Neufeld’s Donegal bridge at Château La Coste

Château La Coste is a chic winery and modern sculpture park located just a 25 minute drive north of Aix-en-Provence. Set on 500 acres of vineyards and forest trails, you can spend the better part of a day on foot exploring the expansive park’s renowned art and architecture or experience something more luxurious at one of their upscale restaurants, bars, or 5-star rental villas.

At first glance, I was skeptical the experience would be stuffy, considering the website’s polished design, making the place appear more luxury wedding venue than quirky art park, but my partner insisted on visiting. As soon as we departed on the guided art walk, I could see from the diversity of the group, that this place attracted a fascinating array of art and wine lovers from all over the world. The beauty of the vineyard setting and well-placed art sculptures left me both excited and comfortable.

It turns out the Château La Coste is so large, and offers such an array of events, that the luxury villa crowd were outnumbered by a refreshing array of locals and adventurous tourists. As a side note, the tabby cat wandering loose by the welcome center is not as friendly as he seems; he bit me as I tried to pet him, which I had a good laugh over.

Michael Stipe’s Foxes. Yes, That Michael Stipe!

Louise Bourgeois’ Crouching Spider

As I mentioned, Château La Coste offers affordable, guided art walks, which you can book online or upon arrival. Check their website for times and availability. Be sure to bring sunscreen and comfortable shoes as the tour takes you through open trails in the bright Provencal sunshine, as well as up dusty paths into some gorgeous oak forests.

Inside Andy Goldsworthy’s tomb-like Oak Room

A Vineyard view from Tadao Ando’s La Chapelle

Many of the art sculptures are interactive. You can climb into Andy Goldsworthy’s underground Oak Room and stand in the dark, gradually appreciating the details of the woven oak branch structure as your eyes adjust. You can inspect the seven identical foxes by the R.E.M.’s famous lead vocalist Michael Stipe and appreciate how each appears different depending on how they are positioned on the forest floor. All in all, the art walk at Château La Coste is fun and extremely memorable, as experiential education tends to be.

Tom Shannon’s Drop at Château La Coste

As your art walk comes to an end, don’t forget to experience a taste of the local Château wines, such as a glass of their well-respected rosé, or dine at one of their gorgeous restaurants. For me, the experience was overwhelmingly joyous and educational; from walking the scenic grounds to sitting at their outdoor cafe and listening to local musicians. Spending an afternoon at Château La Coste is a unique way to see world-class art while getting close to nature, something many don’t take the chance to do as they bop around Europe’s main sites and city centers.

Richard Serra’s subtle Aix Scupture

Cooling Off with some Château La Coste wine

Where To Stay In Mexico City

La Condesa Street Corner

If you’re heading to Mexico City (CDMX) for the very first time, as I did recently, you will likely have several questions, but one of the first will be finding the ideal spot to rest your head. What you probably know is that Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world and you will absolutely want to situate yourself someplace both interesting and convenient.

Let me just cut to the chase and let you know the area of Mexico City I recommend most: La Condesa and Roma Norte. You will hear others plug Polanco, but after experiencing it, I would exclude it for someone’s very first trip due to all the modern office buildings and exclusive gated properties. La Condesa and Roma Norte feel more central, historic, and much more beautiful.

Why La Condesa / Roma Norte?

Walkability

Situated at the center of most popular destinations, you’ll be able to walk (or very quick cab ride) everywhere. We walked to the museums, to the sites in the downtown, and of course, were in the right spot for great food and nightlife.

Coffee Scene

Coffee is important to me. I love having my first stop of the day be a small, neighborhood cafe where I can order a nice cup-o-joe and a local pastry, and just sit down and figure out my day. The coffee in and around La Condesa was excellent and I didn’t run out of local cafes to try.

Bars

The nightlife of La Condesa and Roma Norte ranges from classic sidewalk cafes, to unbelievably cool cocktail bars, to old-school mezcal spots. Why not stay a few blocks away from all that so you can walk home after drinking one too many strong pours?

La Condesa by Night

Food

Food is the reason many people travel to CDMX to begin with. So much excellent food at reasonable prices! Whether you make dinner reservations at the famous Contramar or Huset or want to experience the pastry heaven of Panaderia Rosetta Havre, save yourself the Uber rides and stay nearby.

Parks

I can not put enough emphasis on how gorgeous parks are in Mexico City. Parque Mexico, Parque Espana, Plaza Rio de Janeiro, and of course the ginormous Bosque de Chapultepec all are a quick walk when you stay in La Condesa or Roma Norte. Make yourself at home on a park bench and marvel at the number of adorable, well-trained dogs being walked. You’ll start wondering why people don’t talk about the parks of Mexico City more often.

Beauty

This final point may or may not be an obvious one. Some people might assume staying in downtown Centro will put them in the middle of it all. It may do that in some cities, but downtown in most cities is also dirty, touristy, loud, and decidedly lacking in charm during the evening hours.

Instead, when I first stay in a city, I try to locate an area a local person would choose as their favorite urban area to hang out, both day and night. In NYC that area would be the West Village and in Mexico City, it is La Condesa and Roma Norte. You will find green leafy streets, adorable, brightly-colored homes, and stylish locals. You’ll marvel at what plants and trees will actually thrive in this urban area: from bright red poinsettias to giant philodendrons and cactus gardens, your jaw will drop as you turn every corner in these adorable, yet convenient, Mexico City neighborhoods.

Mild January day in Roma Norte CDMX

Airbnb or Hotel:

This of course is a personal choice, but I found the Airbnb options to be so plentiful and of such high quality, not to mention affordable, that I chose to stay at an Airbnb on the Condesa/Roma Norte line. For me, this was the perfect choice, but know there are also dozens of beautiful hotel choices in this area, from basic ($50+) to luxury boutique ($300+). My Airbnb was $90/night and incredibly chic.

Do you have a favorite neighborhood in Mexico City? Leave a comment below!