Bari, Italy: Puglia's Lively Capital

Italy can inspire even the grumpiest person to crack a big smile. Boiling over with history, art, natural beauty, and remarkably scrumptious food, it simply checks all the feel-good boxes. Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan draw in some of the world’s largest tourist crowds each year. But there is another part of Italy that might appeal more to your sense of adventure, desire for authenticity, and search for the perfect aquamarine beach! This article is all about the wonderful Italian city of Bari, in the southeastern region of Puglia.

La Scaletta Beach outside Monopoli

BARI

The city of Bari, a place that flies under the average tourist’s radar, is much more than a capital city of the gorgeous Puglia region, or just a departure port for ferries crossing the Adriatic. I first thought I would visit Bari for a few hours, then want to quickly descend into the rest of Puglia to enjoy the quaint coastal towns and to escape urban hustle. Following an exciting first afternoon exploring Bari, I decided to stay a few additional days to soak it all up. Below are some takeaways from this recent stay.

Just The Right Size For Walking

Bari is a lovely medium-sized city (approx 300k); large enough to support excellent culinary and cultural options (including Teatro Petruzzelli, an ornate Theater-Opera house!), but also small and flat enough you can do it all on foot. The city sits directly on the Adriatic Sea, and is so pedestrian friendly they have even preserved and converted their ancient fortress/sea wall into the easily accessible pedestrian walkway, Via Venezia. This elevated pedestrian path allows you to encircle the old town while also looking out at the sea. You will find locals walking here and enjoying the dolce vita at all hours, but especially in the evenings where even on the most random weeknight, you will find thriving local life enjoying their gorgeous city.

Memorable Food

We know Italy has some of the best food around. This is true in Puglia and well-on-display throughout Bari. If you’re really interested in Italian pasta, you may have heard about the famous Pasta Grannies. Bari has a bunch of these internationally celebrated women who spend their days opening up their homes, setting out tables, and allowing pedestrians to sample and purchase freshly formed pasta like the famous Apuglian ear-shaped orecchiette.

There are several other special foods found easily directly from these street vendors: Fried polenta (sgagliozza), warm Barisian foccacia bread with cherry tomatoes, crispy rolled taralli bread, or deep-fried panzerotti (similar to a calzone), and others.

Classic Coffee & Pastry Bars

Something I love to do when visiting any new town is to figure out a list of all the best coffee shops. Sometimes that can look like sitting down with a colorful mug of 3rd Wave filtered coffee, delivered by hipsters in over-sized sweatshirts. But in Italy, I prefer to go where the old-timers go: an classic cafe or pastry shop. Bari is no exception to the Italian cafe stereotype you may be imagining, and you can easily discover these atmospheric cafe counters, where sharply-dressed baristas efficiently serve a line of locals, standing confidently with an espresso cup in hand. You have little choice but to join in on the tradition and leave your comfort zone behind.

My favorite spot in Bari is Pasticceria Rex dal 1960 with a close second going to Boccia Pasticceria (both pictured below).

Pasticceria Rex

Boccia Pasticceria

Local Street Culture

I touched on in the city’s walkability, but something you pick up on as you cross town multiple times are some unique aspects of a city’s street culture. In Bari, the city isn’t yet taken over by tourism. There are still old Italian families living on the small streets of the ancient city’s interior. And those people live out on the streets in a way I haven’t often seen in a capital city. You will see families extending their living rooms out onto the city streets. They use mops to clean the gorgeous stone streets, placing out dining and card tables, leaving children’s toys out, and of course decorating the walls outside their front doors with personal and local items such as flowering cactus leaves, religious figures, ribbons, and balloons.

Basilica di San Nicola from the Via Venezia

Bari’s old town is an endlessly charming maze

History

As a port city on the Adriatic sea, Bari has a long history, touched by many cultures, but mainly that of old Greek and Roman rule. Bari is currently home to the giant 11th-century Basilica di San Nicola, a key pilgrimage site, that still holds the remains of St. Nicholas. The old town is full of reminders of the past, all on open public display: from incredibly narrow streets, to countless ancient chapels and unmarked hefty columns preserved in place after old roofs and walls proved less sturdy. Also, you can find reused stone relics from these lost walls, like a carving of Mother Mary placed randomly on its side to construct a back alley stairwell. Even a section of ancient Roman road sits unearthed. So many opportunities to reach out and touch history.

Location Location Location

Puglia may seem a little isolated when you look at the map, but don’t let that discourage you. Located southeast from most of Italy’s major tourist spots, it could be considered a trek when compared to other accessible tourist zones throughout Italy. But, if you are coming from Rome, there are frequent fast trains to Bari, and in just 4 relaxing hours (I suggest reserving the quiet train car), you will walk out into another world that is Puglia, and the zany crowds of Rome will quickly fade into memory. Bari and Brindisi also host small airports if you’re hoping to Puglia from another city in Europe, but I came directly by train from Florence and found the trip enjoyable. I suggest using Bari as a base for exploring the smaller coastal and mountain towns of Pulgia. Day trip-worthy hot-spots include Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, Ostuni, Lecce, and Matera.

An ancient post in the Bari Old City, once used to tie up criminals for public humiliation

Fishing boat at the Harbor, a place you can watch fishermen selling their daily catch

When to Visit Puglia

I found a way to make this wonderful place even better: visit in October. After two weeks of exploration around Italy by train this October, I don’t think I will ever return in any another season. Olives are starting to drop from the trees, weather is ideal, and it’s noticeably less crowded. Unless you’re a fan of sweating through multiple shirts a day or are searching for holiday markets, just trust me on this one and book your next trip in October.

I spent a summer studying in Italy as a college student, and I recall the pleasure — and also the absolute need— for mid-day naps. This wonderful Italian tradition serves as a cool escape from the intimidating strength of the southern summer sunshine. While naps are fun, sunny days that don’t absolutely destroy your energy levels are infinitely better when you actually want to explore all that Italy has to offer. I would gladly trade long, scorching summer days for 70 degree comfort. This is what I found all over Italy in October, but especially in the southern area of Puglia, where the beaches were still gorgeous and warm, but didn’t make me want to nap under the shade of the nearest beach cave.

A sunbather on the coast just south of Bari Province’s Gorgeous city of Monopoli

Vermont: A Serene Escape From COVID-19

The Connecticut River at McIndoe Falls, Vermont

The Connecticut River at McIndoe Falls, Vermont

When a global pandemic descended after spending months perfecting the itinerary for an epic honeymoon to Portugal, I at first reacted badly. I walked around Brooklyn (masked, of course) avoiding everyone, not only to do my part and reduce the risk of coronavirus spread, but to also hide my grief. It quickly became obvious that if I was to leave New York City this year, it was going to be on a road trip to somewhere safe. 

I grew up in a rural Vermont/New Hampshire border village, so my mind often wanders north when I think of a stress-free city escape. And with a pandemic putting absolutely everyone on edge, time in the woods sounded like the perfect plan.

Vermont responded brilliantly to the COVID-19 virus: They shut down non-essential businesses and the community acted quickly while respecting new public health initiatives. Out-of-state visitors were prohibited without a 14-day quarantine, which was fairly strict compared with other rural American states with low coronavirus numbers. While I did not wish to bring disease with me from NYC, I knew I could travel there safely by car and quarantine at my parents’ house until I could take a nasal swab test. The trip was a huge success and the highlights are featured below by regions visited.

The Northeast Kingdom 

The Northeast Kingdom, a romantic name for Vermont’s northeastern corner, is a region known for its sparse population, gorgeous hiking trails and remote lakes, as well as the sense that you’ve successfully escaped modern times and returned to a New England you thought was long gone. 

St. Johnsbury, VT

Dog Mountain in St. Johnsbury, Vermont

Dog Mountain in St. Johnsbury, Vermont

St Johnsbury is the heart of the Northeast Kingdom and one of my favorite stops in St J is Dog Mountain. The artist Stephen Huneck created a successful art business based here 25 years ago and since his untimely death, his expansive property and studio have been converted into a sanctuary for dogs and dog-lovers. I do not have a dog, but I love walking the hilltop trails, listening to bullfrogs in the ponds, and admire Huneck’s art in the public gallery and chapel.

St. Johnsbury Athenaeum Art Gallery

St. Johnsbury Athenaeum Art Gallery

As a high school student at St. Johnsbury Academy in the 1990’s, my favorite place to sit and do homework after school was the town Athenaeum. It’s a wonderfully preserved public library built in 1871. Stop in to appreciate the work of the Fairbanks family, an entrepreneurial Vermont family that gave back generously to the community. Don’t miss the art gallery in the back where you can admire the gigantic Albert Bierstadt painting titled Domes of the Yosemite.

Barnet and Peacham, VT

Harvey Lake in Barnet Vermont

Harvey Lake in Barnet Vermont

The town of Peacham holds an unbelievable record of being the most photographed small town in Vermont. You must drive through during summer or fall to truly understand the appeal of Peacham and neighboring Barnet’s rolling hills and perfect farm houses. I recommend taking a dip in Harvey Lake or walking through the scenic old graveyard at Barnet Center Cemetery.

Lake Willoughby, VT

Lake Willoughby as seen from Mount Pisgah in Northern Vermont

Lake Willoughby as seen from Mount Pisgah in Northern Vermont

The Northeast Kingdom hides one of nature’s greatest creations, Lake Willoughby. Carved out by a giant glacier, the narrow and deep lake stays cold and fresh all year long. You will be rendered speechless as you visit beaches on the north or south end of the lake and gaze out at the water’s serenity and exciting charms of the cliff faces of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor looming overhead. You might get lucky and hear the warble of the local loons that regularly nest on this remote  lake. If hiking is your thing, Mount Pisgah has a gorgeous hike that takes you past ponds, boulders, rock faces, and unforgettable overlooks.


The Upper Valley

 Straddling the Connecticut River, The Upper Valley of New Hampshire and Vermont offer well-preserved historic villages, plus a bit more hustle-bustle compared to the Northeast Kingdom up the road. Best known as the home of Dartmouth College, Queechee Gorge, or the renowned King Arthur Baking Company. This region deserves at least a day of your time as you bop around Hanover, NH, Norwich, VT and Woodstock, VT.

Hanover, NH

Dartmouth Hall

Dartmouth Hall

After you spend some time admiring the campus buildings surrounding the Dartmouth College Green (and possibly visiting the Baker Library’s stunning Orozco Room murals), you may need a special place to grab coffee or food. Lou’s Restaurant & Bakery is both an ultimate comfort food destination and an essential Dartmouth institution. If you want less American diner and more Irish pub vibes, then head over to Murphy’s On The Green for excellent bar food.

College towns often have ample coffee shops and Hanover is no exception. Stop into Dirt Cowboy Cafe for a hot cup of their specialty brew sourced from around the globe. My favorite is the Ethiopian Harrar. Umpleby’s Bakery Cafe is newer to the Hanover scene, but is already a favorite due to it’s quality sandwiches, pastry, caffeinated drinks and bright, ample seating areas.

Woodstock / Queechee, VT

Covered Bridge in Woodstock, Vermont

Covered Bridge in Woodstock, Vermont

Twenty minutes down the road, the neighboring towns of Woodstock and Quechee (pronounced “kwee-chee”) mix natural beauty and historic splendor. Driving over Quechee Gorge might make you feel a twinge of vertigo as you glance into the surprisingly deep valley cut through dense forest, with a moody river far below. If you’re curious about such things, park in one of the lots at the end of the bridge and view the gorge more closely via the bridge edge or by carefully walking the path down through the forest.

As you head west on Route 4, you’ll want to stop at Simon Pearce. This old mill was converted into a glass blowing studio, retail shop, and high-end restaurant over the course of the past 40 years by a skilled artisan from Ireland. Even if hand-blown glass isn’t your thing, it’s a wonderful place to stop just to walk around the mill building and feel the power of the raging river beside you.

A popular destination for tourists, the historic town of Woodstock is small but extremely charming. It feels as though you are walking into a 19th Century movie set of the perfect New England town. Stroll across the Woodstock Covered Bridge and stop into the Cafe into the Mon Vert Cafe for a treat.

Norwich, VT

A visit to the Upper Valley is not complete unless you stop in Norwich to visit both their famous general store, Dan & Whit's, and the quaint Norwich Inn next door. The pub behind Norwich Inn, Jasper Murdock's Alehouse, is small but provides a warm atmosphere. I like stopping in for a drink at the bar where you feel not as much in an inn, but in a historic local pub.



The White Mountains

A stay in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom puts you conveniently alongside the gorgeous, protected White Mountain region across the river in New Hampshire. The gateway to this highland region is a town called Littleton, with a bustling downtown full of adorable shops, antiques, breweries, and a trusty diner. 

Littleton, NH

Schilling Beer Company in Littleton, NH

Schilling Beer Company in Littleton, NH

Littleton has been known for a long time as a outdoor enthusiast mecca. Over the past 15 years, Littleton has grown with the times and has become home to a few quality places to eat and drink. Schilling Beer Company took over a 18th Century grist mill and started making various European-style beers and snacks. I recommend trying their house made pizza or pretzels while you sit gazing at the swirling Ammonoosuc River below.

Fudge Counter at Chutters in Littleton

Fudge Counter at Chutters in Littleton

Mere steps from Schilling, you can pick up more sweetness than you can handle, at either the Doughnut Cellar or the long candy counter at Chutters candy store. With your treats in hand, stroll across the river through the Riverwalk Covered Bridge then meander along the banks of the Ammonoosuc where you will certainly find your zen.


Franconia / Sugar Hill / Lincoln, NH

Just a few minutes down the road from Littleton, you will find the heart of the White Mountains. The bucolic town of Sugar Hill hides away an insider cult favorite breakfast stop, Polly’s Pancake Parlor. This pancake parlor is huge, allowing you to look over the nearby mountains while you try a fun variety of pancakes and waffles, with of course local maple syrup and spreads on the side.

Polly’s Pancake Parlor in Sugar Hill, NH

Polly’s Pancake Parlor in Sugar Hill, NH

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Another 15 minutes down the road you will come to a cluster of New Hampshire State Parks, and my top choice: the trails at The Flume Gorge. The forests and streams within The Flume transport you to the New Hampshire from the brochures; Impossibly verdant with daunting rock formations and rushing water. The Flume trails are not difficult to hike, and the loop takes approximately one hour.

The Flume in Lincoln, NH

The Flume in Lincoln, NH




Central Vermont

Central Vermont has a very popular tourist town, Stowe, made famous by a ski resort and with some help from the von Trapp family of The Sound of Music, who built a home and resort hotel after their escape from Europe. Ben & Jerry’s ice cream also opened their factory in neighboring Waterbury (same exit off of I-89), making the visit to this area both a cultural and delicious destination.

Stowe / Waterbury, VT

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The Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe is worth a stay if you have a little extra cash, but if not, you can always drop on by anyway to view the impressive gardens or to taste local Austrian-inspired beer and snacks at the von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall. I find that just visiting the lodge with it’s dark chalet-style architecture, makes me want to watch Sound of Music and spend more time getting to know this fascinating musical family that has thrived in Vermont since the 1940s.

Since local beer and food are both clearly a focus when I travel through Vermont, I discovered in Downtown Stowe an excellent brewery called Idyltime Brewing Company that has created a large outdoor garden for distanced drinking.

For outdoor enthusiasts, my favorite hike in Stowe is The Stowe Pinnacle Trail. This popular hike takes a couple hours and has some steep moments, but the rewarding views at the top make it well worth the effort.

Fine dining may not come to mind when you think of Vermont, but in a state with such quality comfort food and drink, you will indeed find a few elevated dining options, like Hen of the Wood-Waterbury. This is the place you might go for an anniversary dinner or when you might want to pop the question to your significant other. Their food is so consistently good, you may get caught up in the meal and forget to take photos of your special moment.

If you’re in Vermont in summer, Creemees (soft serve ice cream) will be on every local’s mind and tongue. The very best can be found at Canteen Creemee Company in Waitsfield or Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho.

Maple Creemee at Canteen Creemee Company

Maple Creemee at Canteen Creemee Company

Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho, Vermont

Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho, Vermont

Burlington

Vermont’s Queen City, Burlington is one place I return to every year. In the One Day In Burlington article I wrote last year, I covered my favorite Burlington spots, but this summer I discovered a few more:

As you already know, Vermont is well known for being both beautiful and green, so naturally visitors and locals alike spend a lot of time outdoors. If you’re a lover of gardening, visit the ginormous Gardener's Supply Company in Williston and start envisioning a back-to-nature kind of life you could lead in Vermont. The garden center can work to whet your appetites, but hitting some unpaved trails will really allow you to appreciate the nature of Vermont. I researched deeply and decided to go on three rejuvenating hikes and one epic bike ride:

  • A bucolic walk throughout the farmland estate and coastline of Shelburne Farms

  • A rewarding vista from the top of Mt. Philo State Park in Charlotte

  • A bike ride along Lake Champlain up the Island Line Trail using rented bikes from Local Motion Bike Rentals in Burlington

  • A woods to lake trail at Niquette Bay State Park in Colchester that featured several Pileated Woodpeckers

Grazing Cows at Shelburne Farms, Vermont

Grazing Cows at Shelburne Farms, Vermont

Lake Champlain at Shelburne Farms

Lake Champlain at Shelburne Farms

After a rewarding day in nature, explore the hip Winooski food and drink scene! I enjoyed a wonderful walk around the Winooski River and then devoured lobster rolls at Waterworks Food & Drink. Finally, find the energy for an after-dinner drink at one of WInooski’s hip cocktail bars, Misery Loves Co. or Mule Bar.

As is true after every trip to Vermont, I returned to the big city both completely rested and reinvigorated. I promise that if you try some of the above advice, that you, too, will find yourself re-energized and ready to fight a novel coronavirus and other pressing injustices of our modern world.

Burlington Waterfront at Sunset

Burlington Waterfront at Sunset

Where To Make Dinner Reservations in Mexico City

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If you’re determined to eat at excellent local restaurants during your travels, then you probably do a lot of research and make dinner reservations well in advance. I did not always plan ahead for my meals abroad, but after an unfortunate Saturday evening spent searching the streets of rainy Paris for what felt like hours, I decided it would be the last time.

If I’m new to a city or visiting on a Thursday through Saturday, I travel with a long list of highly-regarded restaurants and a few dinner reservations made in advance. Sometimes I cancel my reservations depending on how the day turns out (you can’t tie me down!), but more often than not, my research and reservations save the day! It also gives me something to confidently anticipate throughout the day.

Mexico City is so famous for its food that I put a lot more time than usual into restaurant research. I consulted friends, articles, and blogs. I looked at hundreds of photos on Google Maps, Facebook, and Instagram pages. Below is the list of restaurants that excited me most. 

Where We Actually Had Dinner

Fonda Fina: Medellín 79, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Fonda Fina provided an ideal first meal the evening we arrived in CDMX. The menu had many classic Mexican dishes and really excelled at lively sauces and fresh ingredients. The restaurant had a warm, intimate feeling and the wait staff were very attentive. I recommend trying one of their fruity cocktails.

Fonda Fina

Fonda Fina

Contramar: Calle de Durango 200, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Contramar was our favorite dinner spot in CDMX. The restaurant decor was crisp and stylish, and the service was wonderfully attentive. If you love seafood, or even if you don’t, you still should prioritize Contramar for a special dinner in Mexico City.

Contramar

Contramar

Contramar

Contramar

Huset: Colima 256, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Huset appears to have it all; excellent decor, hip clientele, and fantastic food. The giant outdoor garden was special for this urban setting, providing fun, ambient lighting, lush plants, and a pebbled floor. We initially had made reservations to sit at the bar, but the night we visited, the evening was warm and the garden had space so we changed our minds. If you want a restaurant where you need a lift in your travel mood, then consider Huset and it’s lively garden and fun staff.

Huset

Huset

Pujol: Tennyson 133, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

We had to try the infamous Pujol. We understood it was expensive, even for us New Yorkers. However, we budgeted for it and went in with a very open mind. It turns out, you will certainly need an open mind during your visit to Pujol. The menus add several surprises and are guaranteed to introduce you to foods you have never encountered. Think sea urchin, algae, and ant larvae. I am certainly not very adventurous but sometimes it’s fun to just dive in and surrender to new and exotic foods as you leave your old self behind!

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Pujol

Pujol


Restaurants We Will Prioritize For Our Next Visit

Azul Historico: Isabel la Católica 30, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Cafe De Tacuba: Calle de Tacuba 28, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06010 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

La Docena: Av. Álvaro Obregón 31, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Do you have a favorite restaurant in Mexico City? Please let us know in the comments below!

The Best Food and Drink of Harvard Square

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Cambridge, Massachusetts, with an impressive history as a lasting academic center in United States higher education, has long attracted intellectuals and artists from around the world. As English America’s first planned village, founded in 1630, and home to America’s oldest University (Harvard), the area deserves a visit for anyone interested in American history or fantastic bookstores (shout-out to Harvard Bookstore!).

Fortunately, Harvard Square, the area of Cambridge that surrounds Harvard University, has an appeal that far surpasses a typical college town. After living within the bounty of New York City for several years, I still think fondly of the 6 years I lived in Cambridge. Balancing both its fascinating history and now, a quality food scene, Harvard Square is an enriching place to spend a few days.

Harvard Yard, Harvard University

Harvard Yard, Harvard University

Below find my absolute favorite Harvard Square spots for quality food and drink:

Alden & Harlow - Best Fancy Dinner

I end up in Boston at least once a year for either work or pleasure, and have chosen Alden & Harlow the past three visits for a nice or romantic dinner stop. Using local farms and fisheries, Alden & Harlow has a really fresh and delicious take on preparing local ingredients. I recommend trying the three-onion dip and Berkshire crispy pork belly.

40 Brattle St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Alden & Harlow restaurant in Harvard Square

Alden & Harlow restaurant in Harvard Square

Border Cafe - Best Casual Dinner

While this is not the place to go for traditional Mexican fare, you are guaranteed a fun tex-mex meal, surrounded by a diverse cross-section of the Cambridge social scene. I especially enjoy the free chips and salsa, and always choose the frozen margarita!

32 Church St, Cambridge, MA 02138

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Pinocchio's Pizza & Subs - Best Slice

You may find yourself just hungry enough to indulge in a slice of pizza on the go. If this occurs during your stay in Cambridge, you should absolutely head to Pinocchio’s. You’ll be met by hilarious painted wall murals and an eclectic selection of old photographs. Local celebrities Mark Wahlberg, Ben Affleck, and Matt Damon apparently stop here, so if that convinces you to try it, then cool! For the rest of you, you’ll just have to trust me.

74 Winthrop St, Cambridge, MA 02138

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Darwin’s, Ltd. - Best Lunch Sandwich

A good sandwich can make a magical meal. And unlike some good dinners, I never seem to forget a good sandwich! Darwin’s was my regular stop for 6 years and never got old. You may encounter a line at lunchtime, but any wait is well worth it. Sandwich options are many, and bread choices are fresh baked! Also take note of the case of local cookies or shelves of excellent wines.

148 Mt Auburn St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Darwin’s sandwich counter

Darwin’s sandwich counter

Tatte Bakery & Café - Best Pastry

I didn’t want to include Tatte on this list, as they started opening in the Boston area after I moved away, but after just a couple visits, I was won over. Stepping into their Harvard Square cafe, you will notice a buzz that can only come from serving up the very best. Just try walking past their cases full of fresh-baked pastries and pies — you won’t make it out of here the same weight as you walked in.

1288 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Tatte Bakery & Cafe in Harvard Square

Tatte Bakery & Cafe in Harvard Square

Flour Bakery - Famous Sticky Buns

Selecting between the excellent local bakery options is difficult. This is why you’ll find a few on this list! But Flour, founded by a Harvard grad, serves up some of the best sweets in the square, especially the famous sticky bun. This place is also popular if you need a spot to sit and study, as there are several tables.

114 Mt Auburn St, Cambridge, MA 02138

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Hi-Rise Bread Company - Best Cup of Coffee

Hi-Rise does a lot of things right. Interior decor is adorable. Breads, sandwiches, and pastries are top-notch (like the apricot-filled brioche). But this place is also a favorite for a cup of joe from their high-quality coffee bar, using beans from Counter Culture Coffee.

1663 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Hi-RIse Cafe next to the Harvard Law School, Cambridge

Hi-RIse Cafe next to the Harvard Law School, Cambridge

L.A. Burdick Chocolates - Best Chocolate Treats

Sometimes you find yourself chilled by the New England winds and just need a hot cup of thick hot chocolate. It’s nothing like the hot chocolate you’ve had from a dry mix. This stylish Brattle Street shop also sells chocolate mice, which are a wonderfully unique gift.

52 Brattle St, Cambridge, MA 02138

L.A. Burdick Chocolates, Harvard Square

L.A. Burdick Chocolates, Harvard Square

The Sinclair - Hippest Bar

Sometimes you grow tired of a traditional tavern or pub, so ubiquitous to the Boston area. The Sinclair is a wonderful alternative if you want an good selection of quality cocktails and the very best of local brews. Attached to a lively music venue, you can’t help but feel energized by the cool space and quality drinks.

52 Church St, Cambridge, MA 02138

The Sinclair Bar and Event Venue in Harvard Square

The Sinclair Bar and Event Venue in Harvard Square

Shay's Pub & Wine Bar - Best Pub

Finally, a classic Cambridge pub! You should plop yourself down at Shay’s and enjoy a cool glass of beer and maybe even one of their delicious burgers. Located in the basement level on JFK Street, you’ll feel at ease here. So do as the Harvard students do, stay and keep the drinks coming.

58 John F. Kennedy St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Shay's Pub & Wine Bar in Harvard Square

Shay's Pub & Wine Bar in Harvard Square

The 10 Best Bakeries in New York City For Specialty Treats

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New York City offers just about everything in the area of baked goods. Finding the perfect spot for a sweet, bready treat should not be a hard task, but there are a many mediocre places to sift through before finding the true gems.

This list below names not only my favorite shops that produce their own baked goods, but also places that have one or two specialty treats that I deem go above and beyond the competition.

Bourke Street Bakery - Ginger Brûlée Tart

This bakery is a relatively new competitor to the NYC scene. However, back in Sydney, Australia, the quality of Bourke Street is well known. Located just north of Madison Square Park, between Flatiron and Koreatown, this bakery is central, as well as spacious. I was surprised to see how much quality seating they provide for the bakery visit when you absolutely cannot wait another minute to eat your treats.

15 E 28th St, New York, NY 10016

Bourke Street Bakery’s Ginger Creme Brûlée Tart with Pistachio

Bourke Street Bakery’s Ginger Creme Brûlée Tart with Pistachio

Levain Bakery - Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie

Levain began on the Upper West Side as a bitty, below-ground producer of breads and cookies. Fortunately, the phenomenal quality caught on and there are now a few additional locations around the city (and one in the Hamptons) with much shorter lines than the original on 74th Street. The Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie is the masterpiece to purchase, but only for those you love dearly. An honorable mention must also go to the Bomboloncini doughnut disk filled with raspberry jam.

167 W 74th St, New York, NY 10023

Levain Bakery’s Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie

Levain Bakery’s Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie

Daily Provisions - Cruller

This bakery near Union Square shot quickly into fame thanks to their gorgeously designed cafe and rather instagrammable specialty: Dipped Crullers. They carry maple and cinnamon as regulars, but my favorite is snagging one of their specialty colors and flavors such as the rainbow pride edition or red strawberry. An additional location just opened on the Upper West Side.

103 E 19th St, New York, NY 10003

Daily Provisions' Cruller

Daily Provisions' Cruller

Daily Provisions' Cruller After the first bite, revealing an airy, moist interior

Daily Provisions' Cruller After the first bite, revealing an airy, moist interior

Four & Twenty Blackbirds - Salty Honey Pie

A Brooklyn favorite for years, Four & Twenty has earned their reputation for excellent pies. The best location is the original on Third Avenue in Gowanus, but they have a pie bar in Prospect Heights. After living in Brooklyn for the past 4 years, I’ve begun to wonder if it’s really holiday season without a Salty Honey Pie.

439 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

Four & Twenty Blackbirds’ famous Salty Honey Pie

Four & Twenty Blackbirds’ famous Salty Honey Pie

Orwashers Bakery - Jelly Filled Donut

Orwashers, an Upper East Side institution, not only has an adorable shop with friendly service and several excellent regular treats from Italian rainbow cookies to the Jewish classics like rugelach and hamantaschen. My favorite remains their dedicated station for filling donuts with fresh Upstate New York jelly, before your very eyes!

308 E 78th St, New York, NY 10075

The Jelly Filling Station at Orwashers on the Upper East Side

The Jelly Filling Station at Orwashers on the Upper East Side

William Greenberg Desserts - Black & White Cookie

There’s been a lot of attention given to the traditional New York cookie known as the “black and white”. And while everyone may have their go-to spot, I can say I’ve tried more than most and the only ones I keep coming back to are the cookies at William Greenberg. I’ve made it a tradition of sorts, each visit I pay to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I swing by William Greenberg to grab a B&W. Special shout out to their red velvet variety.

1100 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10028

william-greenberg-black-white-cookies.jpg

Breads Bakery - Babka

Breads sure did its best to turn me off at first. Located next to Union Square and The New School, every visit was annoyingly crowded with students and made me wonder what the appeal was all about. Then, thankfully, I was pointed in the direction of their chocolate babka. I stopped by one morning before the students were awake, and ate some of the best babka in existence. Now I get it. And thankfully, they’ve opened a few additional locations.

18 E 16th St, New York, NY 10003

Breads’ Chocolate Babka

Breads’ Chocolate Babka

Dominique Ansel Bakery - Kouign Amann

This place is a semi-upscale French bakery, and known for the dessert phenomenon of 2013, the Cronut. Thankfully, you should know this place produces other quality french classics like the kouign amann. Known at Dominuqe Ansel as The DKA, their kouign amann is a wonderful balance of crispy chewy caramel and dense pastry. It’s the best I’ve found in the US. Just go get one, OK?

189 Spring St, New York, NY 10012

officially team DKA

officially team DKA

The Hungarian Pastry Shop - Napoleon Pastry

This shop makes my top 10 list for so many reasons: 1) Nerdy Columbia students who sit here wishing they were studying abroad in Europe. 2) Producers of desserts you don’t find in most other bakeries. 3) Old-school service with white takeaway boxes and red string. 4) Located across the street from the massive Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine. And finally, 5) a baked creation called a Napoleon pastry. Beige in color, you might not understand the appeal of this mille-feuille creation at first, but once you get a bite of the frosted, crunchy layers with an overflowing custard middle, you will begin planning more weekend excursions to Morningside Heights.

1030 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10025

The Hungarian Pastry Shop

The Hungarian Pastry Shop

Bakeri - Best Bakery All Around

Bakeri is the like the bakery one dreams about finding, hidden in the coolest nook of Brooklyn, but doesn’t ever seem to actually exist. Luckily for us all, it does exist, and it’s run by a group of women who wear utilitarian jumpsuits and produce dozens of expertly baked items, served up on vintage service ware at marble tables! You cannot miss this place on your next outing to the hip neighborhood of Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

105 Freeman St, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Bakeri in Greenpoint, Brooklyn is Excellent All-Around

Bakeri in Greenpoint, Brooklyn is Excellent All-Around

A Case for Fribourg, Switzerland

Fribourg, Switzerland’s Peaceful Sarine River

Fribourg, Switzerland’s Peaceful Sarine River

Switzerland has a lot going for it: centrally located in Europe, compact in size, gorgeous, connected by an infamously reliable train network, and did I mention gorgeous?!

Known best for the massive alpine range, The Alps, covering 65% of its land, Switzerland draws mountain sport enthusiasts from around the world to its many resort towns. This impressive geologic feature has helped the country maintain a long history of tourism, and due to the multi-lingual residents (4 official languages!), it is always easy to connect with locals to ask questions. But what may be lesser-known about Switzerland, is the beauty within its cities and towns.

Of course you probably know of Zurich, Geneva, Lucerne, Basel, and Bern, which are already an impressive number of famous cities for such a small country, but the list gets longer when you think outside the box and consider towns like Lugano, Lausanne, Montrieux and Neuchatel. But for this article, let me make a case for one town that isn’t yet on many must-see lists: Fribourg.

Fribourg City as seen from Hotel Au Sauvage

Fribourg City as seen from Hotel Au Sauvage

Full disclosure: I spent a year abroad living in Fribourg, Switzerland, so I am partial. I was lucky to get to know Fribourg and many other Swiss towns, and for reasons unknown, Fribourg does not draw a tourist crowd. For you, this could mean an opportunity to explore a Swiss town not spoiled by crowds, where you’ll have a chance to get closer to local cultures and foods-- with zero lines!

Let me explain my top reasons for proposing you add Fribourg as a stop on your next Swiss adventure:

Central and Accessible

Fribourg is a stop on most express train lines travelling through Switzerland’s plateau, between Geneva and Zurich. This means that if you’re visiting Switzerland and board a train at either major airport, there’s already a train waiting that will bring you to Fribourg in just a few stops. Fribourg is also quite centrally located in the country, just 20 miles from the capital city of Bern.

Older House Facade in Fribourg

Older House Facade in Fribourg

Preserved Medieval Town

Fribourg is easily accessible, but more importantly, it is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Switzerland. Situated on a sharp turn in the swift river Sarine, Fribourg was built at this enviable location not to create the gorgeous and compact peninsula town we see today, but because it could be easily defensible. This unique geographic position results in dramatic viewpoints that often include river, bridge, village, and cliff all in a single point of your camera.

Walkability

As you would in any new place, you will want to attempt to walk as much of Fribourg as possible. This way you can stop to admire the historic tavern signs, the hand-forged door bell pulls, decorative shutters, and leaded glass windows. Much of this is precious (and instagramable) detail is in the old lower city, near the river.

If you dare, attempt walking some of the steep wooden and stone stairways shortcuts scattered all over town; the best being Escaliers du Collège, Stalden, and Escalier du Court-Chemin.

Fribourg City Hall as seen from the Escalier du Court-Chemin

Fribourg City Hall as seen from the Escalier du Court-Chemin

The highlights on your visit can be seen all by taking a walking tour that brings you from the train station in the upper town, down toward the old town peninsula. This path will first bring you past the adorable shopping district on the Rue de Lausanne to the imposing gothic Cathedral St-Nicolas (started in 1283). Near the cathedral, be sure to walk down the narrow Rue des Epouses to spot the historic signs overhead. Continue past the cathedral towards the tip of the peninsula. You’ll notice streets become narrow and wonderfully steep.

At the tip of the peninsula, you’ll find two bridges that are huge highlights of the town, the Pont de Berne and the Pont du Milieu, the former a wooden bridge built in 1653 and the later, a stone archway. Both provide dramatic views of both river and town. Keep an eye out for the benches alongside the river, underneath the Pont du Milieu. Don’t be jealous now, but this is where I used to eat lunch in high school!

If you’re less excited about walking all the way back up to the train station after this, you can hop on the Fribourg Funicular, that, for just a few coins, will take you (slowly) back up the walls of the old city to the upper town. Or, if you’re up for more exploration, take the Chemin de Lorette up above the city walls to the adorable Chapelle de la Lorette for fantastic views down upon the town, and to spot some local cows along the path!

Fribourg City as seen from the steps of Chapelle de la Lorette

Fribourg City as seen from the steps of Chapelle de la Lorette

Villars Chocolate

Everyone knows the Swiss produce quality chocolate, but Fribourg is home to one of the best chocolatiers in the country. The locally produced Villars Maitre Chocolatier has a perfect Fribourg cafe to visit to both learn more about the company, sample chocolate, and buy a few gifts for your loved ones at home.

Swiss French and German Cultures Combine

Fribourg is a canton (a Swiss state) that cuts through the border of the German and French speaking regions of the country. This results in a unique bilingual capital city. While it is a majority French-speaking, tourists can enjoy the convergence of the two languages and cultures. Even the Cathedral represents a mix of both sides, it was begun by German architects in 1283 and finished by French-speaking citizens in 1490.

I found the relationship between the French and German-speaking Fribourgeois to be fascinating, as the high school I attended in Fribourg was split in two sections by language. I recall an epic high school drama between a girl in my French-speaking class falling in love with a German-speaking boy. The cultural and linguistic differences can be such that this situation was presented to me a major issue!

More Affordable than other Swiss Towns

If you’re like most visitors to Switzerland, you’ll feel your wallet groaning as you begin to book hotels and train passes. Consider using a central town like Fribourg as a home base for a few nights instead of Bern, since you’ll find charming hotels in Fribourg at half the cost and it’s only a 20 minute train ride away from the center of Bern, and under an hour from Lausanne or Gruyères Castle!

Fribourg’s Chapelle de la Lorette

Fribourg’s Chapelle de la Lorette

Where to Drink and Dine in Fribourg

Cafe & Pastry

Äss-Bar Fribourg: Rlle du Lycée 4, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Progressive cafe where you can buy quality pastry at a good price

Le Port de Fribourg: Planche-Inférieure 5, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Quality cafe and pastry stop by the Sarine River, with an amazing outdoor terrace

Bars

Café Populaire: Rue Saint-Michel 9, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Popular tavern with great snacks

Belvédère: Grand-Rue 36, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Historic cafe and bar with epic views

Restaurants

Café Du Gothard: Rue du Pont-Muré 16, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Authentic Swiss food, including cheese fondue

Café du Midi: Rue de Romont 25, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Traditional Swiss food near the Cathedral

Les Trentenaires: Rue de Lausanne 87, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Burgers & ambiance rule in this modern restaurant with a fun street terrace

Best Burgers of New York City

Whether you crave a basic hamburger or a burger crafted from prime dry-aged beef and Brooklyn Brine pickles, you will be able to find several top-quality options in New York City.

Burgers have been my dinner of choice for as long as I can remember, even growing up with a vegetarian mother (sorry, mom)! When I discovered how delicious they could be served medium rare or with the delightful texture of a lightly-toasted potato bun, my obsession grew.

There are several excellent options in NYC, so please don’t default to that burger chain because you assume they know what they’re doing; like with most things, the very best can be hard to find, but it’s worth going for. The good news is you don’t need to spend big bucks to be served an amazing burger in New York. Below, I organize the best burgers into 3 price levels, from the high end special occasion burger to the everyday burger.

THE HIGH END BURGER (>$20)

These burgers may be expensive, but they are worth every penny. And the below restaurants are phenomenal culinary establishments in their own right, no matter what you order.

Breslin, $29

The first time you bite into the Chargrilled Lamb Burger at Breslin, a tear will probably come to your eye. It’s truly a phenomenal experience. And if you’re weirded out by lamb, you are not alone. I was nervous my first time back in 2010, until that first bite, when I realized I would never be the same. This burger is the most expensive on my list, but for a meal that makes you cry, you should go for it and save money somewhere else in your day.

The Breslin’s Lamb Burger served with feta, cumin mayo, and thrice-cooked fries

The Breslin’s Lamb Burger served with feta, cumin mayo, and thrice-cooked fries

Minetta Tavern, $25

The Minetta Burger is famous and on just about every New York burger list. However, knowing that I am often disappointed by such universally-acclaimed experiences, I tasted with some trepidation. I am here to confirm Minetta Tavern’s burger is worth it; worth the cost for such a quality burger, but also worth visiting the historic restaurant on the lively Macdougal street. Minetta Tavern is full of atmosphere with classic service (huge cloth napkins!) and old time portraits on the walls. I show up early and grab a spot at the bar.

Minetta Tavern: 113 Macdougal St, New York, NY 10012

Minetta Tavern in Greenwich Village

Minetta Tavern in Greenwich Village

James, $23

James is a culinary treasure. Located in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, the adorable corner restaurant on a residential brownstone street, serves up one of the best burgers I’ve ever had. Although I have eaten most of the burgers on this list multiple times, I’ve visited James the most. It’s cooked perfectly every time, and the fries and pickles are delicious.

James: 605 Carlton Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11238

James Restaurant in Brooklyn

James Restaurant in Brooklyn

Red Hook Tavern, $22

This tavern in Red Hook, Brooklyn, is run by the BBQ expert Billy Durney. Durney serves up a fantastic burger. I really appreciate how the cheese is melted perfectly onto three sides of the dry-aged beef burger. All proportions and flavors are spot on! I wish they gave a few more fries on the plate, but that’s just me!

Red Hook Tavern: 329 Van Brunt St, Brooklyn, NY 11231

Red Hook Tavern in Brooklyn

Red Hook Tavern in Brooklyn

THE MIDDLE RANGE BURGER ($15 to $20)

Buying a mid-range burger doesn’t mean it’s middle-of-the-road in flavor! The burgers below will all keep you dreaming of a return visit.

Henry Public, $16 to $19

Henry Public is an essential Brooklyn experience. You walk in and feel like you’ve stepped into an 1890’s tavern. You won’t find people on cell phones, instead you may find an eclectic mix of locals having actual conversations over a beer or classic cocktails. And they serve up just a few food items, but they have perfected each offering.

Henry Public: 329 Henry St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

Bernie’s, $17

Williamsburg can be an anxiety-producing neighborhood to eat out in. It attracts a lot of tourists (something Brooklyn was not always used to!) and there are several bars and restaurants to choose from. Bernie’s flies slightly under the radar, and feels like a hometown place, stuck in the middle of this expensive hipster a paradise. People look happy and relaxed, and the food is to die for.

Bernie’s: 332 Driggs Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Bernie’s in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Bernie’s in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

The Double Windsor, $15

This beer and burger pub in South Park Slope, Brooklyn serves up excellent food from a window in the back. Just order a fine craft beer from the bar, then wander to the food window and ask for a burger. This place is always busy, in an otherwise chill part of Brooklyn, for a very good reason.

The Double Windsor: 210 Prospect Park West, Brooklyn, NY 11215


THE AFFORDABLE BURGER (<$15)

I couldn’t ignore the less expensive, but still delicious options that exist around NYC. These compare in quality and price to a Shake Shack or Five Guys burger, but have the local, non-chain vibe that I adore. Hit these up for a quick, anytime meal next time you’re hungry in Manhattan.

Corner Bistro, $11 to $13

Corner Bistro occupies a delightful corner in Manhattan’s well-loved West Village. You would think, if you looked at the prices of restaurants in this area, that anything served here would cost a ton. However, this bistro keeps costs low, yet somehow always comes through with a fun dining experience. Don’t expect a fancy place, food is served on paper plates and fries cost extra. But boy, the people watching from the windows here is worth something in itself.

Corner Bistro: 331 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014

JG Melon, $12 to $13

JG Melon has been around since the 1970s. Starting on the Upper East Side, this burger-centric establishment is dripping in old-school New York charm. Watermelon paintings crowd the walls. You have to give in to the charms of green and red decor, and to the quality of their burger. They recently opened a restaurant in Greenwich Village that is more spacious than the Upper East Side spot, but I still prefer the original location, if I can manage to get a seat!

JG Melon: 1291 Third Ave, New York, NY 10021

J.G. Melon in Greenwich Village

J.G. Melon in Greenwich Village

Burger Joint, $9 to $10

This place is a hidden gem— and it’s literally hidden! You have to walk into the luxury Parker hotel, then locate the large, red plush curtains. Behind them you will locate this uber-casual small producer of fast and delicious burgers! I enjoy going here before a Broadway show or concert at the nearby Carnegie Hall.

Burger Joint: 119 W 56th St, New York, NY 10019

Fast, Affordable Food Before a Broadway Show

One can live for years in New York struggling with this simple food dilemma: where to eat before that 7PM Broadway show in Midtown. Now, this issue for me was exacerbated by the fact I am an avid Broadway Lottery player, meaning if I win lottery tickets on any given day, I have very little time to convince my partner to attend a show that same night, pay for the discounted tickets, and then run to the show immediately after work. And as many New Yorkers will tell you, they completely avoid midtown Manhattan, making them totally unaware of tasty food options there.

DANGER ZONE: Hungry, Frustrated People Searching for Food in Midtown Manhattan

DANGER ZONE: Hungry, Frustrated People Searching for Food in Midtown Manhattan

Over the last couple years, I’ve started planning ahead and asked around about food options in Midtown West / Hell’s Kitchen. There are a few excellent restaurants, but they are either pricey or slow, often both. Luckily, I’ve found several food options in Midtown that now I can look forward to stopping at for a speedy, affordable and delicious bite before the show.

Don’t Wander The Big Apple Aimlessly, Take My Advice Below

Don’t Wander The Big Apple Aimlessly, Take My Advice Below

Ramen or Thai:

Totto Ramen: 366 W 52nd St, New York, NY 10019 or 464 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

A personal favorite! Ramen is prepared quickly and this spot is always top quality.

Wondee Siam: 792 9th Ave, New York, NY 10019

Thai is a specialty on Hell’s Kitchen’s 9th Avenue. This spot is tiny, but the service and meals are always great.

Talad Wat: 714 9th Ave, New York, NY 10019

Communal tables and a country style make this a unique and delicious Thai experience.

Totto Ramen on West 52nd Street, Midtown Manhattan

Totto Ramen on West 52nd Street, Midtown Manhattan

Burger and Shake:

Shake Shack: 691 8th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This burger chain originates in NYC, but has spread all over the country. It’s still a great quick meal and the lines move fast.

5 Napkin Burger: 630 9th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This is another NYC burger chain serving up high quality burgers, salads, and bar food.

Shake Shack in Midtown Manhattan

Shake Shack in Midtown Manhattan

Mexican:

Los Tacos No.1: 229 W 43rd St, New York, NY 10036

This popular cult favorite serves excellent street style tacos and feels like you’re stepping into a California fast-food joint. There are skinny tables for standing and quick taco consumption.

Los Tacos in Midtown Manhattan

Los Tacos in Midtown Manhattan

Pizza:

Patzeria Perfect Pizza: 231 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036 (for slices/ garlic knots),

There are several cheap take-away pizza slice options in NYC, but this is one of the best. They also offer many toppings.

Food Court:

City Kitchen: 700 8th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This artisanal food court won me over with a doughnut stand. Having options is nice for a family or larger group that may not be able to decide on one restaurant.

Patzeria Pizza in Midtown Manhattan

Patzeria Pizza in Midtown Manhattan

Caffeine or Pastry:

St Kilda Coffee: 328 W 44th St, New York, NY

If I’m dragging before a show, I want a quick espresso or coffee. St Kilda is a favorite because it has a unique location underneath 44th Street (around the corner from Shake Shack), and if you’re lucky you’ll spot some Broadway stars also seeking a shot of energy.

Cafe Grumpy: 200 W 39th St, New York, NY 10018

My classic go-to coffee shop in NYC has a Times Square location.

St Kilda Coffee in Midtown Manhattan

St Kilda Coffee in Midtown Manhattan

Bars:

Jimmy’s Corner: 140 W 44th St, New York, NY 10036

A narrow and packed classic NYC dive bar. You’ll find all ages and types here, and you’ll be squeezing by everyone, so this is not for the claustrophobic.

Flaming Saddles: 793 9th Avenue (between W 52nd/ W 53rd St), New York, NY 10019

This is an energetic gay bar, popular with all genders and orientations. This is a perfect spot to grab a quick beer and get in the mood for a musical. The bartenders here all wear cowboy boots and dance on the bar à la Coyote Ugly.

Pocket Bar: 455 W 48th St, New York, NY 10036

Super small bar only locals know about with a wonderful owner/bartender. You’ll feel welcome the instant you enter, and they give out free popcorn. Also consider their sister bar Back Pocket one block north.

Enjoy the show!

Enjoy the show!