avignon — Journal of All Blog Posts

Avignon is one of my favorite spots on the planet. In 2003, I spent a semester living within the walls of Avignon’s old town, studying French, devouring local pastries and, well, sampling a lot of Avignon’s bars— you know, a typical American college student abroad. So, after years of growing up and seeing much more of the world, I wondered if I had romanticized Avignon due to that unique moment in life, or if I would still enjoy it today.

Finally, this spring, I returned to answer this question once and for all. And to my surprise, Avignon charmed me even more as a 30-something adult.

In this post, I will reveal all of my favorite spots and activities. And because I like to think I’m ahead of the trend, I wasn’t surprised to learn the Obama family spent a week in Avignon just two weeks after my own visit. So, be like me and the Obamas: consider Avignon as an upcoming trip destination.

As I mentioned in my post on Turin, I took a train trip from Milan to Marseille earlier this year, and Avignon was my first stop in France. I’m in love with the European train system and avoid renting a car whenever possible. If you’re like me, you’ll be happy to know Avignon has two major train stations, a TGV station and a Center station. Both stations are connected by a small train that runs frequently (or a $30 cab ride), so don’t worry if you book a trip to Avignon on TGV then look at a map. It’s not far away and the speed of the TGV makes Avignon a really easy place to reach from Paris, Lyon, Marseille and beyond.

The Historic Facade of Hôtel des Monnaies, built in 1619

So, what are the best reasons to visit Avignon in Southern France? Aside from the obvious beauty and location on the edge of the wonderful regions of Luberon and Provence, Avignon is steeped in a unique history and still supports a thriving artistic culture you’ll want to take a day or two to experience.

Avignon was the seat of the Pope way back in the 14th Century, when the Palais des Papes was built. It is an imposing Gothic structure in the center of town, the largest of the world’s medieval buildings. In modern times, Avignon’s Papal Palace no longer hosts the Pope, but the city remains an important cultural hub in Europe. There’s a popular theater festival hosted in Avignon every July, when the entire city becomes a stage to hundreds of performances. Also, the opera house hosts performers from all over Europe.

MORNING

Begin your day with a view of the town from above! The Jardin des Doms sits high upon the massive “rocher”, a stone hill that sits just behind the palace. From the edge of this garden, you will be able to view the city’s rooftops, the spires of the palace, the Rhone river, and the rolling hills beyond.

Knowing a bit about this interesting papal history, you should prioritize a visit to the Palais des Papes, where you will be impressed by the sheer enormity and quality of construction. There are countless courtyards, towers, and gardens to explore within.

Take a leisurely pace when walking around Avignon’s winding streets. There are several trompe-l’oeil frescoes to spot on building walls. Avignon’s streets and squares also hosts several excellent outdoor markets for local produce, tablecloths, antiques, and more. Check this local website to learn where the local market will be held on the day(s) of your visit.

LUNCH

I recommend visiting Les Halles d'Avignon, a large indoor market where you can find dozens of vendors selling breads, meats, cheeses, produce, and more! Collect fresh regional items and make yourself a picnic if the weather is nice (and the weather is almost always nice in Southern France!)

Perfect sunlight of Southern France upon a building facade in Avignon

AFTERNOON

You have many options, but I recommend going on a bike ride to see a bit of your surroundings. I booked an electric bike tour in advance with South Spirit Bike Tours at 54 Rue Limas (allow 2 hours for tour) and was able to see the famous bridge, old city walls, fruit orchards of the Île de la Barthelasse, and the picture-perfect town of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon with its gorgeous medieval Fort Saint-André. This neighboring town is where the Obamas stayed and it’s full of quiet charm and impressive views of Avignon in the distance.

If museums are more your speed, consider the Musée Calvet, a free museum displaying the celebrated and diverse collection of Esprit Calvet. The museum has sections of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artifacts, paintings from Dutch masters to modern, sculpture, and more. Additionally, the Collection Lambert , with a 10 Euro entry fee, provides a modern gallery space featuring daring installation art, modern paintings, and an otherwise important permanent collection.

Biking across Île de la Barthelasse toward Fort Saint-André

Gate at La Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction monastery in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

LATE AFTERNOON

You’ll certainly be getting tired after biking and walking the old town, so why not break for a wine sampling at Le Vin Devant Soi, a wonderful wine shop that lets you sample many local wines. You simply load 20 Euros onto a card, grab a glass, and help yourself to wines from a brilliant system of automated spouts. It’s fast, easy, and puts you in charge of your wine experience. Side note: if you want less wine than 20 Euros worth, they will kindly refund any money you don’t use on the card at the end of your visit. While I was skeptical at first, I really enjoyed this experience for the control I was able to have in determining which wines and how much I tasted of each. No need to ask for a pour or wait for a server— and the tables outside of the shop are below the most enchanting of all doorways in Avignon (see photo below).

Avignon is in the middle of a progressive construction project, where they are increasing the pedestrian streets within the city walls. This means that some city squares have been freed up for cafe terraces and public artwork. One of these squares is the Place Saint-Didier, where there was once a small car lot, but is now a gorgeous open square full of cafe seating, children playing, and the best people-watching in town! I recommend sitting at the Grand Café Barretta’s beautiful outdoor seating with a coffee, wine, or beer. Relax and watch the locals.

Place Saint-Didier, hidden in Avignon’s center, is an ideal spot to relax in town

EVENING

You have several excellent options for a quality meal and drinks out on the town in Avignon. Below are several recommendations that result from a mix of personal experience, research, and recommendations from the experts at my Avignon B&B.