A Very French Camino: An Introduction to The Via Podiensis

I was inspired to walk the Camino after visiting Santiago de Compostela, the Spanish town famous for being the destination of pilgrims across Europe since the 9th Century. The cathedral there is said to house the relics and remains of Saint James, and while this fact didn’t inspire me personally, the spirit of the Camino is palpable and something I wanted to be a part of. I already loved Europe, long walks, and challenging travel adventure, so I could easily imagine myself on a pilgrimage. However, when I first decided I wanted to walk the Camino, I didn’t realize just how many choices I would have when the time came to actually plan my adventure.

A map of the 4 main Camino trails through France, The Via Podiensis highlighted

Many Camino Options

The most popular Camino route is called The Frances, which begins in a French town called St Jean Pied-de-Port, but after the departure day, it is a walk across the northern section of Spain. After a bit of research, I discovered there were many official Camino trails extending all over Europe. They exist mainly in Portugal, Spain, Italy, and France, but they even stretch beyond to the UK, Germany, and Poland. Depending on the type of experience you seek, any one of these trails could be your ideal Camino. This article stands as my case in amplifying the wonders of the Via Podiensis, the Camino that stretches across southern France.

The Via Podiensis

The Via Podiensis, also known as the Le Puy Route, is approximately 750 km (or 466 miles) and lies entirely within the country of France. It officially begins in the mountain town of Le Puy and ends in St. Jean Pied-de-Port, where some pilgrims choose to continue walking through Spain to Santiago so they can collect their official Compostela certificate. Below I will highlight the many reasons I chose to walk the Via Podiensis, and why I would encourage you to, too!

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The Perks of the Via Podiensis

A Quieter Experience

The Via Podiensis begins in Le Puy, a small town with dramatic volcanic rock spires and a cathedral on a hill that will launch you into your Camino like no other place can. This town, like St. Jean Pied-de-Port where the Frances route begins, is more or less dedicated to the Camino and just arriving into town you truly feel like you are properly oriented to your Camino experience. There’s a special 7 AM daily service at the cathedral where you will have a chance to meet other pilgrims, then depart together in a unique ceremony. But once you’re on the trail and the town of Le Puy is behind you, you will see that this trail is not only safe and quiet, but also wonderfully marked with clear signage and even bathrooms and water spouts aplenty. You will feel truly well-cared for by the Camino and the surrounding communities. And of course your fellow pilgrims are always a source of information and assistance if needed. What I love most about the Via Podiensis, is it’s a trail that will give you true peace of mind in a remarkable setting.

An “Older” Experience

The walkers on the Via Podiensis certainly come in all ages. I met college students up through retired couples. However, I think it’s important to mention that those walking this trail tend to trend older than what you’ll see on the Spanish Caminos. It turns out it’s very popular in France for retired people and groups of friends to walk sections of the Via Podiensis for fun. I can’t blame them as the experience is sublime and you can go at your own pace, but if you’re looking to meet dozens of 20-somethings on the trail ready to mingle, you may want to consider walking the popular Frances route instead. Knowing this in advance, I understood the Via Podiensis wouild make the most sense for me and what I was looking for in a Camino. I’m married, middle-aged, and was interested in a quieter trail, so I was thankful to have the many Camino options and selected the Via Podiensis!

French Gîte Culture: All About The Food

France takes its dinnertime rituals very seriously. The gîte (the French word for hiker’s hostels lining the Camino trail) owners across the Via Podiensis typically offer a “demi-pension” lodging option, which is certainly what most pilgrims are looking for. It’s a chance to eat a delicious home-cooked meal around 7 PM, have a nice shower/bed, and then some quick breakfast in the morning before you start your walk. It’s a lot of work for the gîte owners, but for the pilgrim, you are welcomed in the afternoon after a tiring day on the trail, and offered immediate comfort and care. This could include an aperitif cocktail, a cool foot soak, or a poolside lounge chair. There is no limit to the types of gites in France, but most tend to be smaller than the hostels you find in Spain. You can almost guarantee you’ll leave the next morning having eaten a wonderful hot meal and have made a few more friends around the dinner table sharing local wine and personal stories about the day.

The Beauty of Southern France

The Via Podiensis has a very appealing placement through gorgeous and lesser-known regions of southern France. Camino walkers on the Via Podiensis often have to come first to the city of Lyon (either flying directly there or taking a train there from Paris) prior to taking a train to Le Puy. This provides a wonderful opportunity to acclimate to a new time zone by exploring the fabulous “foodie” city of Lyon. Also, the Via Podiensis ends near the cities of Bayonne, Biarritz, and Bordeaux giving you a reason to acquaint yourself with France’s lesser visited but absolutely remarkable cities on the Atlantic coast. I found myself falling in love with both Lyon and Bordeaux on either side of my Camino adventure, and am so grateful.

But aside from these urban delights, the towns you walk through daily on the Via Podiensis are small and appear like something out of Beauty and the Beast. Le Puy, Conques, Cahors, Lauzerte, Auvillar, and Lectoure, to name a few, will satisfy any and all desire you may have to find yourself in a quiet slice of medieval France where you will have the chance to drink a glass of wine in an ancient city square while you contemplate the gorgeous stretch of land you traversed that day.

Escape America(ns) and Learn French

This point was very appealing to me. The Caminos outside Spain tend to have more locals and fewer American tourists. Since I am a francophile who studied French in school, I knew I would embrace the chance to practice and build upon my language skills. And this of course is done best by putting myself at intimate dinner tables surrounded by actual French people. One thing to know about the Frances Camino in Spain, is there are so many international pilgrims that the common language tends to be English. While this makes things easy for anglophones, one big reason to walk the Camino for me, was to put myself into a different culture and out of my comfort zone completely. The Via Podiensis is the perfect balance of comfort (see the gite/food section above!) and challenge (the daily walk and social interactions in France!). But if you don’t speak any French, you’ll still find a excellent experience with patient and kind pilgrims willing to help. Most people have some knowledge of English in France, but it does put pressure on you to learn at least some basics!

Similarities to the Frances Camino in Spain

You may fear that walking on the Via Podiensis will lack some of the spirit or community found in Spain. I shared some of this same fear myself. However, the Via Podiensis offers both a traditional Camino experience, but also something that is more unique and rare: the chance to focus in on making connections over delicious French food and wine while you walk mainly with Europeans.

The Via Podiensis is part of the same established Camino path that pilgrims have walked for hundreds of years on their way to Santiago de Compostela. You will be able to collect pilgrim passport stamps and wear a scallop shell just like other Santiago pilgrimages. The biggest differences are listed in this article, around your fellow pilgrims and the experience you’ll have in the evening hostels.

The decision of which Camino you choose comes down to what kind of experience is the best fit for you. All Camino pilgrims seek, no matter the trail, friendly and inclusive trail interactions mixed with time for introspection, so rest assured you will get everything out of this Camino that you put into it. You can easily make excellent connections with French pilgrims and also have more than enough time to contemplate life, history, and the beauty of Europe. Like I did, always consider your options!

Are you planning a Camino pilgrimage and want to learn more about what to pack? See my article on creating the ultimate Camino packing list.

The Ultimate Packing List for Walking the Camino de Santiago

If you are planning to walk on the Camino de Santiago, you must inevitably create a shopping and packing list. I did this over the summer as I prepared for a solo September walk on the Via Podiensis Camino across southern France. Every item you carry should be considered with discretion because it’s not just about utility, but also the collective weight on your back (and joints and feet) that will help determine the ease in which you’ll walk hundreds of miles.

You should aim to bring everything you think you will actually need and nothing more. But, keep in mind you will likely forget something essential and need to buy it during your first days in Europe. Don’t worry– you will easily find it there. Additionally, if this is your first Camino, you will be tempted to bring too many items and may need to ditch something along the way. Prepare yourself mentally and financially for this inevitability.

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THE LIST:

Edited post-Camino to include just essentials.

✅ Backpack: 35-40 L size hiking bag

✅ Trail / Hiking Shoes: be sure to buy one size up from your normal shoe– your toes should not touch the end. I like the Altra or Hoka brands.

✅ Sandals: This is an absolute must. You must leave your trail shoes in the entry of most hostels, so having the sandals both gives you something to wear in the evenings to dinner but also provides feet a needed break from your day shoes. I recommend Teva or Bedrock brands.

✅ Lightweight Hiking Pants: 1 pair with or without detachable shorts. I personally dislike convertible pants as they tend to be cut awkwardly large around the knee to accommodate the zipper.

✅ 2 x Hiking Shorts: I used Patagonia’s 8” Trail Shorts and plan to continue using them.

✅ 4 x Hiking Socks: I love the Darn Tough brand, made in Vermont.

✅ 4 x Underwear: I recommend Outdoor Research’s Men’s Boxer Briefs.

✅ 3 x T-Shirts: made of quick-dry athletic material.

✅ Long Sleeve Shirt: made of thermal/ technical material. I ended up using the REI Co-op Active Pursuits Quarter-Zip Shirt. I would wear it every chilly morning and it was stretchy and easy to strip off when things warmed up. I never used my other long-sleeve shirt on my trip, but would have if I did my walk in colder months.

✅ Lightweight Rain Jacket: or a poncho

✅ Lightweight Jacket : This is for any surprise chilly weather, and could be a light puffer or fleece jacket. If walking May - September you can skip this item. I never used mine and regretted taking it, as the rain jacket could be used instead, layered with a long-sleeve top.

✅ Sun Hat: I used the REI Co-op Sahara Cap with built-in neck cape for sun protection. You will be walking west so the sun is often just behind you! This ended up being an essential item.

✅ Small Packable Daypack: This is a practical item that can add very little weight to your pack. I bought a 4oz , 18L Naturehike bag and used it to carry things around anytime I wasn’t on the trail. This also works great as a personal bag for air travel and rest days.

✅ Toiletry Bag: I liked the small one from LL Bean with just the right amount of pockets and a hanging hook option.

✅ 3 - 4 x Travel Bottles: for all liquids you bring. This should be a 3.4 oz size to comply with air travel requirements.

✅ Shampoo: put in a travel bottle

✅ Body Soap: put in a travel bottle

✅ Face Cream with SPF: put in a travel bottle

✅ Toothbrush & Toothpaste: a 2.5 oz tube is the ideal size for a month

✅ Nail Clippers & Tweezers: you want to keep your toe nails trim.

✅ OTC Pain Medicines: acetaminophen and ibuprofen. I used these some evenings to treat general muscle pain, and more often toward the end of the trip when I developed shin splints.

✅ Band Aids: include various shapes and sizes for covering toe blisters

✅ Compeed / Moleskin / Tape: for blister care

✅ Sewing Kit (w/needle!): I used this to empty blisters and also to sew on Camino backpack patches! 

✅ Foot Lubricant: prevents chafing and blisters inside socks. It seems to work, and I wish I used mine more.

✅ 3 x Ultralight Dry Sacks: I was so glad to have these as I used them to keep my clean clothes separate and protected, and to create order in my otherwise messy backpack. 

✅ Water Bottle 1L: I used a collapsible one with a carabiner from Vapur. 

✅ Quick Dry Towel 

✅ 6 x Ziplock bags: for keeping small items dry like pills, bandaids, passports, etc.

✅ Twin Bed Sheet & Pillowcase: the bed sheet was enough for France, but I understand that in Spain it is better to have more mattress protection, so most bring a sleeping bag liner instead.

✅ Portable Charger: for cell phone backup power. I used Anker brand.

✅ Clothes Washing Detergent Strips: I used Breezeo and about 20 strips were enough for a month.

✅ Trail Guide / Map

✅ Essential Documents: printed itinerary, flight Info, copies of passport, etc

✅ Essential Cards: ATM card, credit card, driver's license

✅ Passport: must be valid for 6 months beyond your departure date.

✅ Pilgrim Passport: if you acquire prior to arrival in Europe, otherwise found easily in your departure city.

✅ Phone & Charger Cord

✅ 2 x Europe Converter Plugs : 2 small

OPTIONAL: 

✅ Earphones

✅ Diary & Pen 

✅ Eye Mask

✅ Earplugs

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MORE ADVICE: 

TOTAL PACK WEIGHT: The total weight of your full pack plus 1 liter of water should be 20-lbs, max. Mine was just over 20lbs and I had the heaviest bag of the folks I encountered on the trail. Do yourself a huge favor and fill up your bag and weigh it. What you think you’ll bring a few weeks prior to your trip almost never is what you actually end up walking with once reality sets in!

THE SHOES: I read countless Camino discussion forum musings on footwear preferences: mainly hiking boots, hiking shoes, and trail shoes (even hiking sandals!). Now, there are those who have personal requirements for ankle support, and those people should probably opt for hiking boots. On the other hand, there are those who feel more confident in their stability and choose the lighter trail shoe.

This choice was actually a difficult one for me. As an almost-fit man squarely between my youthful years and retirement age, I felt like I was taking a slight risk when I decided to bring uber light trail shoes (Altra Lone Peak 6). First of all, I had never purchased them before, and second, my long history of hiking had always included sturdy leather boots. Long story short, I was sold on the trail shoes because they allow the toes to splay and breathe better, which can result in blister prevention. I got a few blisters anyway, but was glad for the extra toe space and quick-drying material.

THE BACKPACK: Backpack selection is important. You likely already know that you should not bring a large and heavy camping pack. The Camino is a through-hike, meaning you will walk for weeks at a time and not for a short camping trip. Also, you will likely not be lugging a heavy tent, stove, and food supply, instead, you will pack as light as possible and get food and rest daily from establishments on route. For most, a 30-40L pack is ideal. You will want help from an expert at an outdoor store like REI, as it’s essential you find a pack that sits properly on your hips and shoulders to provide you with ideal weight distribution and support. Many Americans choose a lightweight Osprey backpack, but I also saw a few Gregory packs on the trail.

EVERYTHING ELSE: Selecting the various smaller items is what can be the fun part, and this is where creating the above checklist helped me not forget anything over several months of planning. I say it’s fun because I enjoyed tracking these all down over time, and where you can spend some time making choices based on your personal taste. There are many items to buy and thankfully most are somewhat inexpensive and therefore less heartbreaking if you have to lighten your load mid-Camino. It helped me to know there are sports shops in the larger towns along the Camino where countless people end up purchasing shoe inserts, replacement socks, knee braces, or shampoo. I discovered the selection and prices in France and Spain, at Decathlon for example, were totally reasonable, and in fact around half the cost of similar items in Seattle.

LIGHTWEIGHT & QUICK DRY MATERIALS: I constantly kept weight in mind while shopping, reading once that someone was so desperate to shave off weight during the camino, that they sawed off the handle of their toothbrush. This visual helped me as I left behind my favorite cotton shirts and underwear, packing instead nearly weightless synthetic versions. And of course I recommend you leave behind that hardcover copy of Eat, Pray, Love. 

PILGRIM PASSPORT: Learning of this tradition was initially confusing, as I worried I would need to go through an awkward process akin to joining the Catholic church to be anointed pilgrim status. Eventually, I realized either the pilgrim passport can easily be purchased for a few dollars in your Camino town of departure, or you can even order one online beforehand. I received one for free from the American Pilgrims on the Camino organization, though it took a month for it to arrive. I ended up using one from my departure city in France because it felt more unique and authentic to the Camino I had chosen.

You may wonder how easy it will be to get passport stamps on a daily basis. Will you need to knock on ancient village church doors and beg? I will discuss this in a future article, but let me reassure you— it’s easy. You can always get a stamp at your evening place of sleep, even in most hotels, along with many other spots around each trail village, like tourist offices and cafes.

Is there anything missing from my list that you would have brought along? Let me know!

Château La Coste: Art & Wine Getaway Near Aix-en-Provence

Larry Neufeld’s Donegal bridge at Château La Coste

Château La Coste is a chic winery and modern sculpture park located just a 25 minute drive north of Aix-en-Provence. Set on 500 acres of vineyards and forest trails, you can spend the better part of a day on foot exploring the expansive park’s renowned art and architecture or experience something more luxurious at one of their upscale restaurants, bars, or 5-star rental villas.

At first glance, I was skeptical the experience would be stuffy, considering the website’s polished design, making the place appear more luxury wedding venue than quirky art park, but my partner insisted on visiting. As soon as we departed on the guided art walk, I could see from the diversity of the group, that this place attracted a fascinating array of art and wine lovers from all over the world. The beauty of the vineyard setting and well-placed art sculptures left me both excited and comfortable.

It turns out the Château La Coste is so large, and offers such an array of events, that the luxury villa crowd were outnumbered by a refreshing array of locals and adventurous tourists. As a side note, the tabby cat wandering loose by the welcome center is not as friendly as he seems; he bit me as I tried to pet him, which I had a good laugh over.

Michael Stipe’s Foxes. Yes, That Michael Stipe!

Louise Bourgeois’ Crouching Spider

As I mentioned, Château La Coste offers affordable, guided art walks, which you can book online or upon arrival. Check their website for times and availability. Be sure to bring sunscreen and comfortable shoes as the tour takes you through open trails in the bright Provencal sunshine, as well as up dusty paths into some gorgeous oak forests.

Inside Andy Goldsworthy’s tomb-like Oak Room

A Vineyard view from Tadao Ando’s La Chapelle

Many of the art sculptures are interactive. You can climb into Andy Goldsworthy’s underground Oak Room and stand in the dark, gradually appreciating the details of the woven oak branch structure as your eyes adjust. You can inspect the seven identical foxes by the R.E.M.’s famous lead vocalist Michael Stipe and appreciate how each appears different depending on how they are positioned on the forest floor. All in all, the art walk at Château La Coste is fun and extremely memorable, as experiential education tends to be.

Tom Shannon’s Drop at Château La Coste

As your art walk comes to an end, don’t forget to experience a taste of the local Château wines, such as a glass of their well-respected rosé, or dine at one of their gorgeous restaurants. For me, the experience was overwhelmingly joyous and educational; from walking the scenic grounds to sitting at their outdoor cafe and listening to local musicians. Spending an afternoon at Château La Coste is a unique way to see world-class art while getting close to nature, something many don’t take the chance to do as they bop around Europe’s main sites and city centers.

Richard Serra’s subtle Aix Scupture

Cooling Off with some Château La Coste wine

Marseille: France's Famous Port City Now A Hip Destination

Marseille has been long avoided by tourists due to an unfavorable reputation. This reputation, that Marseille is a town overrun with corruption, danger, and poverty has been slowly improving over the last several years, but just watch an episode of Netflix’s show “Marseille” (with the amazing French actor Gérard Depardieu) and you’ll see that it still has plenty of room for improvement. Consequently, many tourists end up choosing nearby vacation classics instead, like the tidy Aix-en-Provence, the gorgeous coastal calanques, or the tony French Riviera.

Looking down on Marseille from the Saint Charles train station

I began to read more about Marseille in the last few years, and wanted to give France’s second largest city a chance. It is, after all, conveniently located: on the Mediterranean coast with an airport, TGV station, and a large fleet of tour boats arriving and departing daily. Hearing Anthony Bourdain describe Marseille as “exactly the kind of place I like” didn’t hurt, either.

Marseille harbor outdoor market

I can confirm the Marseille of today is both fun and gorgeous, and with thanks of recent investments in infrastructure and cultural centers, it will leave you impressed and bragging to friends about the discoveries you made. Indulge in the surprisingly good pizza or African cuisine scene, or play it safe with some classic seafood bouillabaisse. Be sure to stop at the many shops selling local artisan soap and olive oils, or enjoy a boat cruise to the calanques. Just walking through the city streets, you will be forced to admit this town exceeds expectations and is anything but boring.

moroccan and tunisian Home GOods in the Noailles Neighborhood

Escaliers du Cours Julien

Old Port of Marseille

Settled by the Greeks in antiquity as a strategic port for trade, the city grew due to it’s large, natural harbor on the Mediterranean Sea. The port of Marseille now supports 45,000 jobs and brings over 4 billion Euros to the local economy. Today, the port’s main industries are petroleum refining and shipbuilding, but there are also more interesting products made in Marseille, like soap, linens, and olive oil.

Color coordination in the harbor

Cleaning ships in the harbor of Marseille

Maison Empereur

The large, wonderful shop called Maison Empereur, located in downtown Marseille, is the place to go for everything you might need for the home. As a tourist, this could include locally made soap, spices, dishware, knives, and much more. I spent at least an hour exploring Maison Empereur’s many rooms and will definitely stop here on any return trip to Marseille. I live in NYC, but I found myself wishing I had a shop like this nearby.

Local spices at Maison Empereur

Local Marseille soaps sold at Maison Empereur

Panier District

My favorite area in Marseille is the Panier, an ancient district centrally located just off the port. This district is known for its museums, arts, quality dining and the second oldest church in Europe, the Cathedral de la Major. I recommend finding a hotel or home-stay near the the Panier so you can easily explore the treasures of the Panier at all hours.

The Panier is also home to the fascinating MuCEM Museum, where you can learn more about the local Mediterranean history and culture. This museum makes for an interesting visit not just for the education it provides, but due also to the ambitious architectural design. MuCEM, located on the very end of the harbor and surrounded on 3 sides by water, provides an unparalleled platform to admire the expanse of the harbor, the colors of the land and sea, and soak up some French sunshine. The museum has many landings, bridges, and patios, all making for a thrilling chance to explore the gorgeous Mediterranean setting from an exciting, interactive modern structure.

MuCEM provides 360° views of city and sea

Bull on Stilts sculpture by Marseille City Hall

In the Panier, you will also notice an exciting display of locally produced street art, painted on the sides of buildings and stairways throughout the neighborhood. I recommend strolling through the streets of the upper Panier to admire the skillful artwork, on your way to eat at a great restaurant like Entre Terre & Mer or to learn more about the local sport of pétanque at Maison de la Boule.

Street art in Panier District

Afternoon light in the Panier District

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Panier District street art

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Recommendations to Consider

COFFEE & PASTRY:

Bernie Coffee: 7 Place de Rome, 13006 Marseille, France

Bricoleurs de Douceurs (Pastry): 202 Chemin du Vallon de l'Oriol, 13007 Marseille, France

Coogee (Coffee / Breakfast): 100 Boulevard Baille, 13005 Marseille, France

7VB Café (Coffee): 9 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS:

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13281 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major: Place de la Major, 13002 Marseille, France

Les Escaliers du Cours Julien (Street Art Area): Rue Estelle, 13006 Marseille, France

Maison de la Boule (Pétanque Museum): 4 Place des 13 Cantons, 13002 Marseille, France

MuCEM: Musée Des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée: 1 Espl. J4, 13002 Marseille, France

SHOPPING:

Le Bazar de César Savonnerie (Soap / Gifts): 4 Montée des Accoules, 13002 Marseille, France

Maison Empereur (Home Goods Shop): 4 Rue des Récolettes, 13001 Marseille, France

72% Pétanque (Soap / Gifts): 10 Rue du Petit Puits, 13002 Marseille, France

FOOD:

Chez Etienne (Pizza): 43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

Chez Saveur (Pizza): 10 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille, France

Entre Terre & Mer (seafood): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

Lacaille (Local French): 42 Rue des trois Mages, 13006 Marseille, France

La Cantinetta (Italian): 24 Cours Julien, 13006 Marseille, France

Le Bouchon Provençal (Local French): 6 Place aux Huiles, 13001 Marseille, France

Maison Geney (Cafe, Breakfast or Lunch): 38 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

Restaurant Le Femina (Couscous): 1 Rue du Musée, 13001 Marseille, France

Restaurant Michel (Bouillabaisse Specialist): 6 Rue des Catalans, 13007 Marseille, France

BARS:

Cafe de l’Abbaye: 3 Rue d'Endoume, 13007 Marseille, France

Carry Nation: Adresse secrète!, 13006 Marseille, France (must reserve here to receive the address)

WHERE TO STAY:

Au Vieux Panier ($$): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

InterContinental Marseille ($$$): 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major as seen from MuCEM

A Perfect Day in Avignon, France

Pont d’Avignon

Avignon is one of my favorite spots on the planet. In 2003, I spent a semester living within the walls of Avignon’s old town, studying French, devouring local pastries and, well, sampling a lot of Avignon’s bars— you know, a typical American college student abroad. So, after years of growing up and seeing much more of the world, I wondered if I had romanticized Avignon due to that unique moment in life, or if I would still enjoy it today.

Finally, this spring, I returned to answer this question once and for all. And to my surprise, Avignon charmed me even more as a 30-something adult.

In this post, I will reveal all of my favorite spots and activities. And because I like to think I’m ahead of the trend, I wasn’t surprised to learn the Obama family spent a week in Avignon just two weeks after my own visit. So, be like me and the Obamas: consider Avignon as an upcoming trip destination.

The Papal Palace of Avignon

As I mentioned in my post on Turin, I took a train trip from Milan to Marseille earlier this year, and Avignon was my first stop in France. I’m in love with the European train system and avoid renting a car whenever possible. If you’re like me, you’ll be happy to know Avignon has two major train stations, a TGV station and a Center station. Both stations are connected by a small train that runs frequently (or a $30 cab ride), so don’t worry if you book a trip to Avignon on TGV then look at a map. It’s not far away and the speed of the TGV makes Avignon a really easy place to reach from Paris, Lyon, Marseille and beyond.

The Historic Facade of Hôtel des Monnaies, built in 1619

So, what are the best reasons to visit Avignon in Southern France? Aside from the obvious beauty and location on the edge of the wonderful regions of Luberon and Provence, Avignon is steeped in a unique history and still supports a thriving artistic culture you’ll want to take a day or two to experience.

Avignon was the seat of the Pope way back in the 14th Century, when the Palais des Papes was built. It is an imposing Gothic structure in the center of town, the largest of the world’s medieval buildings. In modern times, Avignon’s Papal Palace no longer hosts the Pope, but the city remains an important cultural hub in Europe. There’s a popular theater festival hosted in Avignon every July, when the entire city becomes a stage to hundreds of performances. Also, the opera house hosts performers from all over Europe.

MORNING

Begin your day with a view of the town from above! The Jardin des Doms sits high upon the massive “rocher”, a stone hill that sits just behind the palace. From the edge of this garden, you will be able to view the city’s rooftops, the spires of the palace, the Rhone river, and the rolling hills beyond.

Knowing a bit about this interesting papal history, you should prioritize a visit to the Palais des Papes, where you will be impressed by the sheer enormity and quality of construction. There are countless courtyards, towers, and gardens to explore within.

Take a leisurely pace when walking around Avignon’s winding streets. There are several trompe-l’oeil frescoes to spot on building walls. Avignon’s streets and squares also hosts several excellent outdoor markets for local produce, tablecloths, antiques, and more. Check this local website to learn where the local market will be held on the day(s) of your visit.

Jardin des doms in Avignon

LUNCH

I recommend visiting Les Halles d'Avignon, a large indoor market where you can find dozens of vendors selling breads, meats, cheeses, produce, and more! Collect fresh regional items and make yourself a picnic if the weather is nice (and the weather is almost always nice in Southern France!)

Perfect sunlight of Southern France upon a building facade in Avignon

AFTERNOON

You have many options, but I recommend going on a bike ride to see a bit of your surroundings. I booked an electric bike tour in advance with South Spirit Bike Tours at 54 Rue Limas (allow 2 hours for tour) and was able to see the famous bridge, old city walls, fruit orchards of the Île de la Barthelasse, and the picture-perfect town of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon with its gorgeous medieval Fort Saint-André. This neighboring town is where the Obamas stayed and it’s full of quiet charm and impressive views of Avignon in the distance.

If museums are more your speed, consider the Musée Calvet, a free museum displaying the celebrated and diverse collection of Esprit Calvet. The museum has sections of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artifacts, paintings from Dutch masters to modern, sculpture, and more. Additionally, the Collection Lambert , with a 10 Euro entry fee, provides a modern gallery space featuring daring installation art, modern paintings, and an otherwise important permanent collection.

Biking across Île de la Barthelasse toward Fort Saint-André

Gate at La Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction monastery in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

LATE AFTERNOON

You’ll certainly be getting tired after biking and walking the old town, so why not break for a wine sampling at Le Vin Devant Soi, a wonderful wine shop that lets you sample many local wines. You simply load 20 Euros onto a card, grab a glass, and help yourself to wines from a brilliant system of automated spouts. It’s fast, easy, and puts you in charge of your wine experience. Side note: if you want less wine than 20 Euros worth, they will kindly refund any money you don’t use on the card at the end of your visit. While I was skeptical at first, I really enjoyed this experience for the control I was able to have in determining which wines and how much I tasted of each. No need to ask for a pour or wait for a server— and the tables outside of the shop are below the most enchanting of all doorways in Avignon (see photo below).

Le Vin Devant Soi in Avignon

Avignon is in the middle of a progressive construction project, where they are increasing the pedestrian streets within the city walls. This means that some city squares have been freed up for cafe terraces and public artwork. One of these squares is the Place Saint-Didier, where there was once a small car lot, but is now a gorgeous open square full of cafe seating, children playing, and the best people-watching in town! I recommend sitting at the Grand Café Barretta’s beautiful outdoor seating with a coffee, wine, or beer. Relax and watch the locals.

Place Saint-Didier, hidden in Avignon’s center, is an ideal spot to relax in town

EVENING

You have several excellent options for a quality meal and drinks out on the town in Avignon. Below are several recommendations that result from a mix of personal experience, research, and recommendations from the experts at my Avignon B&B.

Restaurants:

La Cuisine de Papa: 7 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, France

La Fourchette: 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, France

Le Petit Gourmand: 37 Rue du Vieux Sextier, 84000 Avignon, France

Maison de la Tour: 9 Rue de la Tour, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant Chez Mimmo: 19 Rue du Chapeau Rouge, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant Fou de Fafa: 17 Rue Des Trois Faucons, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant L'Épicerie: 10 Place Saint-Pierre, 84000 Avignon, France (Located in the most charming square)

Restaurant Le Violette: 5 Rue Violette, 84000 Avignon, France (Upscale dinner at the Lambert Collection)

Port du Rocher is an excellent spot to admire Avignon’s fortified old city walls

Bars:

Bar de la Navigation: 36-40 Boulevard de la Ligne, 84000 Avignon, France

Casual, local haunt by the Rhone

Grand Café Barretta: 14 Place Saint-Didier, 84000 Avignon, France

Excellent outdoor terrace in the charming Place St-Didier

Le Carré du Palais: 1 Place du Palais, 84000 Avignon, France

High-end wine spot near the Palais

L’Explo: 2 Rue des Teinturiers, 84000 Avignon, France

Artisinal beer experts

Le Vin Devant Soi: 4 Rue Collège du Roure, 84000 Avignon, France

Friendly, self-service wine bar

Marion Nous: 1 Place des Carmes, 84000 Avignon, France

Excellent wine and quality bar snacks

Charming Cafes rule the streets in Sunny Avignon

Where to Stay:

Le Clos Saluces: 11 Rue Saluces, 84000 Avignon, France

Worth the splurge! Fantastic B&B located deep in the winding streets of Avignon with amazing decor, rooms, gardens, and food

Le Limas: 51 Rue Limas, 84000 Avignon, France

Historic, stylish space on a quiet-but-central location

L'Observance: 2 Rue de l'Observance, 84000 Avignon, France

Family-run B&B with a pool

Hiking To Calanque d’En Vau In Southern France

You’ve probably seen a photo of Calanque d’En Vau without knowing it’s on the coastline of mainland France, a few short miles from the major city of Marseille. The jewel-tone translucence of the water set against light limestone cliffs can feel just like a Greek Island scene from Mamma Mia!

There are 9 Calanques, or coastal inlets, that stretch along the mountainous coast between Marseille and La Ciotat, and when I decided to visit in June, 2019, I found a lot of varying information about how to best access them and precisely which of the Calanques to visit.

My logistical questions were as follows:

1. Are the Calanques open in the summer?

2. Should I visit the Calanques by foot or by boat?

3. Which Calanque should I choose?

Looking over Port-Miou calanque toward Cassis Bay

Are the Calanques open in summer?

I visited all sorts of official websites and not-so-official forums and got different stories, but from what I understand, the Calanques were given National Park status in 2012 and the dry, mountainous trails covering the land around them also suffered from fires in the recent years, all resulting in attempts to regulate access at risky times of the year. Also, some of the parking lots in the woods north of Cassis (and closer to d’En Vau) may or may not be closed due to various local complaints of overcrowding and/or car theft.

The truth appears to be some of the driving roads are closed from June to November near the Morgiou and Sormiou Calanques (those closest to Marseille). Fortunately, hiking trails to all Calanques remain open through the summer, but are subject to local closure depending on extreme daily conditions or limits set on total daily visitors. Check this website before your visit and show up early to be safe.

I visited Cassis, as many tourists do, and planned to access the Calanques from there. It was early June, and the weather was already an intensely sunny 80°F / 26°C. I had a rental car and drove down early in the morning from Aix-en-Provence, arriving in Cassis to park around 9 AM. I do believe an early arrival was key to both finding a good parking space and surviving the first part of the hike, before midday temperatures peaked.

Sailboats in the Cassis Bay

I chose a parking garage called “Mimosas” at 10 Avenue Augustin Isnard after researching the options around Cassis. It was modern, clean, and felt completely safe. I knew I wanted to spend some time in Cassis’ charming port after the hike, so I chose a lot that would keep me close to town and also allow me to easily swing by the Spar supermarket for water and snacks before the hike.

A note on hydration: I attended Colorado College and while living in Southern Colorado, I spent years hiking the arid, sunny trails of the American southwest. This experience made me insistent on staying properly hydrated, so I insisted my partner and myself each take two 16oz. water bottles on this hike. All I can say is this felt like it was the bare minimum once we began hiking. We were definitely rationing our water by the return trip.

Avenue Augustin Isnard in downtown cassis

Also, you can use the directions feature in Google Maps from your mobile device, set to “walking” mode and it will lead you on the proper hike to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau. I found it really helpful to have the Google Maps trail map on hand to provide peace of mind. Otherwise, it’s hard to go wrong as the trail is rather busy and you simply need to follow the trail signage of red & white stripes (see photo below).

Stay aware of trail markers. The trail to d’En Vau is shared with that of Port Pin

Should I Visit the Calanques by Foot or by Boat?:

You will have options to visit the Calanques by tour boat, kayak, or hiking trail from the town of Cassis. With previous hiking experience and a solid pair of sneakers, I knew I wanted the experience of arriving to the secluded beach by foot. (Plus, I had already taken a boat tour of the Calanques in 2003 and was anxious to get closer to the gorgeous cliffs and coastline).

I was surprised to see so many kayaks in the Calanques. If I were to go back for a third visit, I would choose to rent a kayak and see the coastline from yet another perspective. It seems like a nice compromise between a larger boat tour, and tramping into the Calanques by foot.

Several kayaks docked within the calanque at d’En Vau

Which Calanque To Choose?

After researching online articles and photos, then finally asking our B&B hosts in Provence, we confidently decided to visit d’En Vau. This is one of the hardest Calanques to access by foot, surrounded by some of the more extreme and tall cliff sides, all adding to my desire to visit. In addition, by visiting d’En Vau, you get to experience the town of Cassis and also pass by two other smaller Calanques on the trail, Port-Miou and Port Pin.

Last Leg before the trail opens at the d’En Vau beach

I already mentioned carrying plenty of water, but if you choose to hike into the Calanques, know it is a somewhat challenging hike that takes just under 2 hours each way. It will take you 30 minutes to reach the Port-Miou trail entrance from the center of Cassis, then another 35 minutes to reach Port Pin beach, and finally, another 45 minutes to reach d’En Vau. The most challenging section of this hike is the stretch between Port Pin and d’En Vau as it involves both an ascent and decent, on a trail containing many loose and slippery stones. Be careful on the decent, as there are a couple sections of narrow “bouldering” where you may have to lift yourself down a few spots, and on the busy Saturday I hiked, a couple sections were stressful due to the slow queue of people scrambling down at varying speeds.

Bright midday sun beating down upon the limestone cliffs near the beach at d’En Vau

But don’t be discouraged if you want to experience the hike for yourself! On the trail, I spotted a very pregnant solo hiker, teenagers carrying coolers, and even families with small children. You can probably do it, too. It’s worth it in the end when you’re resting on that perfect pebble beach.

Beach of the Calanque D’en Vau on a busy Saturday

After dedicating a large chunk of your day to this hike and you’re safely back in the town of Cassis, take a well-deserved rest at one of the touristy port-side cafes for a late lunch or some cold beverages! It’s impossible not to enjoy watching the colorful, bobbing sailboats in the harbor or get close to the water’s edge to spot sea creatures swimming by just below the surface.

Boats in the Bay of Cassis

Coffee Shops of Paris

Delicious, simple perfection at Dreamin Man

We all love the idea of travelling to Paris to sit amongst chic locals at a perfect French cafe. Just like in the movies. While this is always an excellent idea to experience at some point in your visit to Paris, I prefer to save the large street cafe experience for lunch or an afternoon aperitif, and instead caffeinate at a local, specialty coffee shop. Not only will the coffee be better, but it will bring you into some interesting side streets of Paris’ most hip neighborhoods.

Paris is in the middle of a wonderful coffee renaissance (aka: third wave) and you should be part of it!

Much of the best coffee scene is around the 10th and 3rd arrondissements, close to the Canal St-Martin or Marais neighborhoods.

Below are some of my favorites:

Dreamin Man: 140 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France

Fragments: 76 Rue des Tournelles, 75003 Paris, France

Radiodays: 15 Rue Alibert, 75010 Paris, France

La Boutique de La Brûlerie de Belleville: 14 Rue Lally-Tollendal, 75019 Paris, France

Ob-La-Di: 54 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France

Loustic: 40 Rue Chapon, 75003 Paris, France

Ten Belles: 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 Paris, France

Coutume Café: 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France

Are there any quality Parisian coffee shops you would recommend? Please feel free to mention them in the comments below!