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The Connecticut River at McIndoe Falls, Vermont

When a global pandemic descended after spending months perfecting the itinerary for an epic honeymoon to Portugal, I at first reacted badly. I walked around Brooklyn (masked, of course) avoiding everyone, not only to do my part and reduce the risk of coronavirus spread, but to also hide my grief. It quickly became obvious that if I was to leave New York City this year, it was going to be on a road trip to somewhere safe.

I grew up in a rural Vermont/New Hampshire border village, so my mind often wanders north when I think of a stress-free city escape. And with a pandemic putting absolutely everyone on edge, time in the woods sounded like the perfect plan.

Vermont responded brilliantly to the COVID-19 virus: They shut down non-essential businesses and the community acted quickly while respecting new public health initiatives. Out-of-state visitors were prohibited without a 14-day quarantine, which was fairly strict compared with other rural American states with low coronavirus numbers. While I did not wish to bring disease with me from NYC, I knew I could travel there safely by car and quarantine at my parents’ house until I could take a nasal swab test. The trip was a huge success and the highlights are featured below by regions visited.

The Northeast Kingdom

The Northeast Kingdom, a romantic name for Vermont’s northeastern corner, is a region known for its sparse population, gorgeous hiking trails and remote lakes, as well as the sense that you’ve successfully escaped modern times and returned to a New England you thought was long gone.

St. Johnsbury, VT

St Johnsbury is the heart of the Northeast Kingdom and one of my favorite stops in St J is Dog Mountain. The artist Stephen Huneck created a successful art business based here 25 years ago and since his untimely death, his expansive property and studio have been converted into a sanctuary for dogs and dog-lovers. I do not have a dog, but I love walking the hilltop trails, listening to bullfrogs in the ponds, and admire Huneck’s art in the public gallery and chapel.

As a high school student at St. Johnsbury Academy in the 1990’s, my favorite place to sit and do homework after school was the town Athenaeum. It’s a wonderfully preserved public library built in 1871. Stop in to appreciate the work of the Fairbanks family, an entrepreneurial Vermont family that gave back generously to the community. Don’t miss the art gallery in the back where you can admire the gigantic Albert Bierstadt painting titled Domes of the Yosemite.

Barnet and Peacham, VT

The town of Peacham holds an unbelievable record of being the most photographed small town in Vermont. You must drive through during summer or fall to truly understand the appeal of Peacham and neighboring Barnet’s rolling hills and perfect farm houses. I recommend taking a dip in Harvey Lake or walking through the scenic old graveyard at Barnet Center Cemetery.

Lake Willoughby, VT

Lake Willoughby as seen from Mount Pisgah in Northern Vermont

The Northeast Kingdom hides one of nature’s greatest creations, Lake Willoughby. Carved out by a giant glacier, the narrow and deep lake stays cold and fresh all year long. You will be rendered speechless as you visit beaches on the north or south end of the lake and gaze out at the water’s serenity and exciting charms of the cliff faces of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor looming overhead. You might get lucky and hear the warble of the local loons that regularly nest on this remote lake. If hiking is your thing, Mount Pisgah has a gorgeous hike that takes you past ponds, boulders, rock faces, and unforgettable overlooks.

The Upper Valley

Straddling the Connecticut River, The Upper Valley of New Hampshire and Vermont offer well-preserved historic villages, plus a bit more hustle-bustle compared to the Northeast Kingdom up the road. Best known as the home of Dartmouth College, Queechee Gorge, or the renowned King Arthur Baking Company. This region deserves at least a day of your time as you bop around Hanover, NH, Norwich, VT and Woodstock, VT.

Hanover, NH

After you spend some time admiring the campus buildings surrounding the Dartmouth College Green (and possibly visiting the Baker Library’s stunning Orozco Room murals), you may need a special place to grab coffee or food. Lou’s Restaurant & Bakery is both an ultimate comfort food destination and an essential Dartmouth institution. If you want less American diner and more Irish pub vibes, then head over to Murphy’s On The Green for excellent bar food.

College towns often have ample coffee shops and Hanover is no exception. Stop into Dirt Cowboy Cafe for a hot cup of their specialty brew sourced from around the globe. My favorite is the Ethiopian Harrar. Umpleby’s Bakery Cafe is newer to the Hanover scene, but is already a favorite due to it’s quality sandwiches, pastry, caffeinated drinks and bright, ample seating areas.

Woodstock / Queechee, VT

Twenty minutes down the road, the neighboring towns of Woodstock and Quechee (pronounced “kwee-chee”) mix natural beauty and historic splendor. Driving over Quechee Gorge might make you feel a twinge of vertigo as you glance into the surprisingly deep valley cut through dense forest, with a moody river far below. If you’re curious about such things, park in one of the lots at the end of the bridge and view the gorge more closely via the bridge edge or by carefully walking the path down through the forest.

As you head west on Route 4, you’ll want to stop at Simon Pearce. This old mill was converted into a glass blowing studio, retail shop, and high-end restaurant over the course of the past 40 years by a skilled artisan from Ireland. Even if hand-blown glass isn’t your thing, it’s a wonderful place to stop just to walk around the mill building and feel the power of the raging river beside you.

A popular destination for tourists, the historic town of Woodstock is small but extremely charming. It feels as though you are walking into a 19th Century movie set of the perfect New England town. Stroll across the Woodstock Covered Bridge and stop into the Cafe into the Mon Vert Cafe for a treat.

Norwich, VT

A visit to the Upper Valley is not complete unless you stop in Norwich to visit both their famous general store, Dan & Whit's, and the quaint Norwich Inn next door. The pub behind Norwich Inn, Jasper Murdock's Alehouse, is small but provides a warm atmosphere. I like stopping in for a drink at the bar where you feel not as much in an inn, but in a historic local pub.

The White Mountains

A stay in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom puts you conveniently alongside the gorgeous, protected White Mountain region across the river in New Hampshire. The gateway to this highland region is a town called Littleton, with a bustling downtown full of adorable shops, antiques, breweries, and a trusty diner.

Littleton, NH

Littleton has been known for a long time as a outdoor enthusiast mecca. Over the past 15 years, Littleton has grown with the times and has become home to a few quality places to eat and drink. Schilling Beer Company took over a 18th Century grist mill and started making various European-style beers and snacks. I recommend trying their house made pizza or pretzels while you sit gazing at the swirling Ammonoosuc River below.

Mere steps from Schilling, you can pick up more sweetness than you can handle, at either the Doughnut Cellar or the long candy counter at Chutters candy store. With your treats in hand, stroll across the river through the Riverwalk Covered Bridge then meander along the banks of the Ammonoosuc where you will certainly find your zen.

Franconia / Sugar Hill / Lincoln, NH

Just a few minutes down the road from Littleton, you will find the heart of the White Mountains. The bucolic town of Sugar Hill hides away an insider cult favorite breakfast stop, Polly’s Pancake Parlor. This pancake parlor is huge, allowing you to look over the nearby mountains while you try a fun variety of pancakes and waffles, with of course local maple syrup and spreads on the side.

Polly’s Pancake Parlor in Sugar Hill, NH

Another 15 minutes down the road you will come to a cluster of New Hampshire State Parks, and my top choice: the trails at The Flume Gorge. The forests and streams within The Flume transport you to the New Hampshire from the brochures; Impossibly verdant with daunting rock formations and rushing water. The Flume trails are not difficult to hike, and the loop takes approximately one hour.

Central Vermont

Central Vermont has a very popular tourist town, Stowe, made famous by a ski resort and with some help from the von Trapp family of The Sound of Music, who built a home and resort hotel after their escape from Europe. Ben & Jerry’s ice cream also opened their factory in neighboring Waterbury (same exit off of I-89), making the visit to this area both a cultural and delicious destination.

Stowe / Waterbury, VT

The Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe is worth a stay if you have a little extra cash, but if not, you can always drop on by anyway to view the impressive gardens or to taste local Austrian-inspired beer and snacks at the von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall. I find that just visiting the lodge with it’s dark chalet-style architecture, makes me want to watch Sound of Music and spend more time getting to know this fascinating musical family that has thrived in Vermont since the 1940s.

Since local beer and food are both clearly a focus when I travel through Vermont, I discovered in Downtown Stowe an excellent brewery called Idyltime Brewing Company that has created a large outdoor garden for distanced drinking.

For outdoor enthusiasts, my favorite hike in Stowe is The Stowe Pinnacle Trail. This popular hike takes a couple hours and has some steep moments, but the rewarding views at the top make it well worth the effort.

Fine dining may not come to mind when you think of Vermont, but in a state with such quality comfort food and drink, you will indeed find a few elevated dining options, like Hen of the Wood-Waterbury. This is the place you might go for an anniversary dinner or when you might want to pop the question to your significant other. Their food is so consistently good, you may get caught up in the meal and forget to take photos of your special moment.

If you’re in Vermont in summer, Creemees (soft serve ice cream) will be on every local’s mind and tongue. The very best can be found at Canteen Creemee Company in Waitsfield or Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho.

Maple Creemee at Canteen Creemee Company

Vermont’s Queen City, Burlington is one place I return to every year. In the One Day In Burlington article I wrote last year, I covered my favorite Burlington spots, but this summer I discovered a few more:

As you already know, Vermont is well known for being both beautiful and green, so naturally visitors and locals alike spend a lot of time outdoors. If you’re a lover of gardening, visit the ginormous Gardener's Supply Company in Williston and start envisioning a back-to-nature kind of life you could lead in Vermont. The garden center can work to whet your appetites, but hitting some unpaved trails will really allow you to appreciate the nature of Vermont. I researched deeply and decided to go on three rejuvenating hikes and one epic bike ride:

A bucolic walk throughout the farmland estate and coastline of Shelburne Farms
A rewarding vista from the top of Mt. Philo State Park in Charlotte
A bike ride along Lake Champlain up the Island Line Trail using rented bikes from Local Motion Bike Rentals in Burlington
A woods to lake trail at Niquette Bay State Park in Colchester that featured several Pileated Woodpeckers

Grazing Cows at Shelburne Farms, Vermont

After a rewarding day in nature, explore the hip Winooski food and drink scene! I enjoyed a wonderful walk around the Winooski River and then devoured lobster rolls at Waterworks Food & Drink. Finally, find the energy for an after-dinner drink at one of WInooski’s hip cocktail bars, Misery Loves Co. or Mule Bar.

As is true after every trip to Vermont, I returned to the big city both completely rested and reinvigorated. I promise that if you try some of the above advice, that you, too, will find yourself re-energized and ready to fight a novel coronavirus and other pressing injustices of our modern world.

Vermont is the U.S. state I love most. I grew up there, so I’m 100% biased, but I do think it’s special. Something about how the light hits the friendly green mountains, its obsession with maple products, or the enchanting sound of loons calling out on the not-overly-developed lakes. It strikes an ideal balance of rural beauty and also progressive politics.

Burlington’s famous Church Street Marketplace

For a state where 61% of the residents are defined as living in “rural areas” (#2 most rural in the USA!), Vermont surprisingly has a long history of its citizens embracing liberal ideals and political movements. Think Bernie Sanders, same-sex civil unions, and Ben & Jerry’s. I call it changing with the times and caring for one another.

Burlington, the largest city, represents Vermont well with the popular University of Vermont up on the hilltop and walkable streets slanting down toward a grand, spiffed-up urban waterfront. Not to mention one of the best views of the Adirondack mountain range on earth. Burlington also has a phenomenal beer and cider scene, comedy, music, and arts galore. If you haven’t been to Vermont, or aren’t the type to embrace rural adventure, Burlington is the perfect place to get your feet wet in Vermont culture.

MORNING:

A perfect Burlington day begins with a hardy breakfast at Penny Cluse Cafe. Go early to avoid the crowds and experience serious quality eats in the form of pancakes, eggs, breakfast burritos, and coffee. Next, walk the entire of the Church Street Marketplace. This pedestrian street stretches through the center of town, and has created a sense of vibrant activity downtown, with many bars and restaurants spilling out onto the bricked street.

LATE MORNING:

I recommend that if you have just one day in Burlington and want to experience a touch of the history and rural beauty of the state, head just one town south to Shelburne, Vermont. Shelburne is home to many attractions like Shelburne Farms, Shelburne Museum, and Vermont Teddy Bear Company. Depending on your mood or company, choose one spot and spend at least a couple hours exploring. The Shelburne Museum hosts a collection of relocated historic Vermont buildings, vintage carriages, trains, artwork, and even a gigantic ship on it’s sprawling grounds. The Shelburne Farms is a huge estate (previously a vacation home to the Vanderbilt / Webb family) and currently provides wagon rides, cheese tasting, and other cultural events throughout the year. Finally, Vermont Teddy Bear is the producer of some of the highest quality hand-crafted teddy bears in the USA.

LUNCH:

Quality food is scattered all over downtown Burlington, but my favorite lunches are casual and just outside of town. Grab a Neapolitan-style pizza at Folino's in Shelburne, which miraculously shares a building with the Fiddlehead Brewery; two delish Vermont gems in one place! Alternatively, head to the or Al's French Frys in South Burlington for burgers, fries, and milkshakes; a Vermont classic since 1946.

AFTERNOON:

Head back into downtown Burlington and explore more nooks and crannies of Church Street Marketplace and the quirky side streets. Shop some local crafts and pottery at the Frog Hollow Crafts Gallery or the Bennington Potters North store, selling iconic Vermont pottery since 1793!

If you’re into Antiques, there’s a large center a short walk south from downtown called Barge Canal Market. Across the street from Barge, there’s one of the best wine shops in New England, Dedalus. If you have room before dinner and don’t get caught up in a wine tasting, I recommend indulging in a soft serve ice cream, called a “creemee” in Vermont. The best creemee is, of course, the maple variety and can be found right on the Burlington waterfront at either Burlington Bay Cafe or Ice Cream Bob’s.

Ice Cream Bob’s in Vermont takes maple creemees (aka: soft serve ice cream) very seriously

EVENING:

Before dinner, you will still be full from the maple creemee and all the amazing food from the day, so work it off by taking a stroll along the waterfront. Burlington waterfront is gorgeous and includes miles of trails alongside Lake Champlain, public beaches, a skating park, a science museum, a boardwalk with swings, and other surprises.

Conveniently, one of my favorite breweries is also located on the waterfront: Foam. This place can be busy later in the evening with live performances, so if you want a more low-key experience tasting fantastic local beer, then show up before dinner and sample one or two specialty beers on either their front or back terraces. They also serve plates of fine cheeses and charcuterie.

Finally, dinner on the town. You’ll want to make reservations well in advance at Hen of the Wood, one of the best restaurants in the entire state. It’s a short walk from the Burlington Waterfront and is decidedly upscale. Typically, when I go to Vermont, I like to indulge in casual breweries, diners, and dives. However, Hen of the Wood is worth splurging for. Second runner up for best dinner in Burlington goes to an old favorite, American Flatbread for pizza. There’s no reservation here, but you can put your name in and head straight to the bar in the entryway for some local beer while you wait.