October 27, 2022

The Ultimate Packing List for Walking the Camino de Santiago

October 27, 2022/ Todd Thomas

If you are planning to walk on the Camino de Santiago, you must inevitably create a shopping and packing list. I did this over the summer as I prepared for a solo September walk on the Via Podiensis Camino across southern France. Every item you carry should be considered with discretion because it’s not just about utility, but also the collective weight on your back (and joints and feet) that will help determine the ease in which you’ll walk hundreds of miles.

You should aim to bring everything you think you will actually need and nothing more. But, keep in mind you will likely forget something essential and need to buy it during your first days in Europe. Don’t worry– you will easily find it there. Additionally, if this is your first Camino, you will be tempted to bring too many items and may need to ditch something along the way. Prepare yourself mentally and financially for this inevitability.

THE LIST:

Edited post-Camino to include just essentials.

✅ Backpack: 35-40 L size hiking bag

✅ Trail / Hiking Shoes: be sure to buy one size up from your normal shoe– your toes should not touch the end. I like the Altra or Hoka brands.

✅ Sandals: This is an absolute must. You must leave your trail shoes in the entry of most hostels, so having the sandals both gives you something to wear in the evenings to dinner but also provides feet a needed break from your day shoes. I recommend Teva or Bedrock brands.

✅ Lightweight Hiking Pants: 1 pair with or without detachable shorts. I personally dislike convertible pants as they tend to be cut awkwardly large around the knee to accommodate the zipper.

✅ 2 x Hiking Shorts: I used Patagonia’s 8” Trail Shorts and plan to continue using them.

✅ 4 x Hiking Socks: I love the Darn Tough brand, made in Vermont.

✅ 4 x Underwear: I recommend Outdoor Research’s Men’s Boxer Briefs.

✅ 3 x T-Shirts: made of quick-dry athletic material.

✅ Long Sleeve Shirt: made of thermal/ technical material. I ended up using the REI Co-op Active Pursuits Quarter-Zip Shirt. I would wear it every chilly morning and it was stretchy and easy to strip off when things warmed up. I never used my other long-sleeve shirt on my trip, but would have if I did my walk in colder months.

✅ Lightweight Rain Jacket: or a poncho

✅ Lightweight Jacket : This is for any surprise chilly weather, and could be a light puffer or fleece jacket. If walking May - September you can skip this item. I never used mine and regretted taking it, as the rain jacket could be used instead, layered with a long-sleeve top.

✅ Sun Hat: I used the REI Co-op Sahara Cap with built-in neck cape for sun protection. You will be walking west so the sun is often just behind you! This ended up being an essential item.

✅ Small Packable Daypack: This is a practical item that can add very little weight to your pack. I bought a 4oz , 18L Naturehike bag and used it to carry things around anytime I wasn’t on the trail. This also works great as a personal bag for air travel and rest days.

✅ Toiletry Bag: I liked the small one from LL Bean with just the right amount of pockets and a hanging hook option.

✅ 3 - 4 x Travel Bottles: for all liquids you bring. This should be a 3.4 oz size to comply with air travel requirements.

✅ Shampoo: put in a travel bottle

✅ Body Soap: put in a travel bottle

✅ Face Cream with SPF: put in a travel bottle

✅ Toothbrush & Toothpaste: a 2.5 oz tube is the ideal size for a month

✅ Nail Clippers & Tweezers: you want to keep your toe nails trim.

✅ OTC Pain Medicines: acetaminophen and ibuprofen. I used these some evenings to treat general muscle pain, and more often toward the end of the trip when I developed shin splints.

✅ Band Aids: include various shapes and sizes for covering toe blisters

✅ Compeed / Moleskin / Tape: for blister care

✅ Sewing Kit (w/needle!): I used this to empty blisters and also to sew on Camino backpack patches!

✅ Foot Lubricant: prevents chafing and blisters inside socks. It seems to work, and I wish I used mine more.

✅ 3 x Ultralight Dry Sacks: I was so glad to have these as I used them to keep my clean clothes separate and protected, and to create order in my otherwise messy backpack.

✅ Water Bottle 1L: I used a collapsible one with a carabiner from Vapur.

✅ Quick Dry Towel

✅ 6 x Ziplock bags: for keeping small items dry like pills, bandaids, passports, etc.

✅ Twin Bed Sheet & Pillowcase: the bed sheet was enough for France, but I understand that in Spain it is better to have more mattress protection, so most bring a sleeping bag liner instead.

✅ Portable Charger: for cell phone backup power. I used Anker brand.

✅ Clothes Washing Detergent Strips: I used Breezeo and about 20 strips were enough for a month.

✅ Trail Guide / Map

✅ Essential Documents: printed itinerary, flight Info, copies of passport, etc

✅ Essential Cards: ATM card, credit card, driver's license

✅ Passport: must be valid for 6 months beyond your departure date.

✅ Pilgrim Passport: if you acquire prior to arrival in Europe, otherwise found easily in your departure city.

✅ Phone & Charger Cord

✅ 2 x Europe Converter Plugs : 2 small

OPTIONAL:

✅ Earphones

✅ Diary & Pen

✅ Eye Mask

✅ Earplugs

MORE ADVICE:

TOTAL PACK WEIGHT: The total weight of your full pack plus 1 liter of water should be 20-lbs, max. Mine was just over 20lbs and I had the heaviest bag of the folks I encountered on the trail. Do yourself a huge favor and fill up your bag and weigh it. What you think you’ll bring a few weeks prior to your trip almost never is what you actually end up walking with once reality sets in!

THE SHOES: I read countless Camino discussion forum musings on footwear preferences: mainly hiking boots, hiking shoes, and trail shoes (even hiking sandals!). Now, there are those who have personal requirements for ankle support, and those people should probably opt for hiking boots. On the other hand, there are those who feel more confident in their stability and choose the lighter trail shoe.

This choice was actually a difficult one for me. As an almost-fit man squarely between my youthful years and retirement age, I felt like I was taking a slight risk when I decided to bring uber light trail shoes (Altra Lone Peak 6). First of all, I had never purchased them before, and second, my long history of hiking had always included sturdy leather boots. Long story short, I was sold on the trail shoes because they allow the toes to splay and breathe better, which can result in blister prevention. I got a few blisters anyway, but was glad for the extra toe space and quick-drying material.

THE BACKPACK: Backpack selection is important. You likely already know that you should not bring a large and heavy camping pack. The Camino is a through-hike, meaning you will walk for weeks at a time and not for a short camping trip. Also, you will likely not be lugging a heavy tent, stove, and food supply, instead, you will pack as light as possible and get food and rest daily from establishments on route. For most, a 30-40L pack is ideal. You will want help from an expert at an outdoor store like REI, as it’s essential you find a pack that sits properly on your hips and shoulders to provide you with ideal weight distribution and support. Many Americans choose a lightweight Osprey backpack, but I also saw a few Gregory packs on the trail.

EVERYTHING ELSE: Selecting the various smaller items is what can be the fun part, and this is where creating the above checklist helped me not forget anything over several months of planning. I say it’s fun because I enjoyed tracking these all down over time, and where you can spend some time making choices based on your personal taste. There are many items to buy and thankfully most are somewhat inexpensive and therefore less heartbreaking if you have to lighten your load mid-Camino. It helped me to know there are sports shops in the larger towns along the Camino where countless people end up purchasing shoe inserts, replacement socks, knee braces, or shampoo. I discovered the selection and prices in France and Spain, at Decathlon for example, were totally reasonable, and in fact around half the cost of similar items in Seattle.

LIGHTWEIGHT & QUICK DRY MATERIALS: I constantly kept weight in mind while shopping, reading once that someone was so desperate to shave off weight during the camino, that they sawed off the handle of their toothbrush. This visual helped me as I left behind my favorite cotton shirts and underwear, packing instead nearly weightless synthetic versions. And of course I recommend you leave behind that hardcover copy of Eat, Pray, Love.

PILGRIM PASSPORT: Learning of this tradition was initially confusing, as I worried I would need to go through an awkward process akin to joining the Catholic church to be anointed pilgrim status. Eventually, I realized either the pilgrim passport can easily be purchased for a few dollars in your Camino town of departure, or you can even order one online beforehand. I received one for free from the American Pilgrims on the Camino organization, though it took a month for it to arrive. I ended up using one from my departure city in France because it felt more unique and authentic to the Camino I had chosen.

You may wonder how easy it will be to get passport stamps on a daily basis. Will you need to knock on ancient village church doors and beg? I will discuss this in a future article, but let me reassure you— it’s easy. You can always get a stamp at your evening place of sleep, even in most hotels, along with many other spots around each trail village, like tourist offices and cafes.

Is there anything missing from my list that you would have brought along? Let me know!

December 04, 2020

Vermont: A Serene Escape From COVID-19

December 04, 2020/ Todd Thomas

The Connecticut River at McIndoe Falls, Vermont

When a global pandemic descended after spending months perfecting the itinerary for an epic honeymoon to Portugal, I at first reacted badly. I walked around Brooklyn (masked, of course) avoiding everyone, not only to do my part and reduce the risk of coronavirus spread, but to also hide my grief. It quickly became obvious that if I was to leave New York City this year, it was going to be on a road trip to somewhere safe.

I grew up in a rural Vermont/New Hampshire border village, so my mind often wanders north when I think of a stress-free city escape. And with a pandemic putting absolutely everyone on edge, time in the woods sounded like the perfect plan.

Vermont responded brilliantly to the COVID-19 virus: They shut down non-essential businesses and the community acted quickly while respecting new public health initiatives. Out-of-state visitors were prohibited without a 14-day quarantine, which was fairly strict compared with other rural American states with low coronavirus numbers. While I did not wish to bring disease with me from NYC, I knew I could travel there safely by car and quarantine at my parents’ house until I could take a nasal swab test. The trip was a huge success and the highlights are featured below by regions visited.

The Northeast Kingdom

The Northeast Kingdom, a romantic name for Vermont’s northeastern corner, is a region known for its sparse population, gorgeous hiking trails and remote lakes, as well as the sense that you’ve successfully escaped modern times and returned to a New England you thought was long gone.

St. Johnsbury, VT

St Johnsbury is the heart of the Northeast Kingdom and one of my favorite stops in St J is Dog Mountain. The artist Stephen Huneck created a successful art business based here 25 years ago and since his untimely death, his expansive property and studio have been converted into a sanctuary for dogs and dog-lovers. I do not have a dog, but I love walking the hilltop trails, listening to bullfrogs in the ponds, and admire Huneck’s art in the public gallery and chapel.

As a high school student at St. Johnsbury Academy in the 1990’s, my favorite place to sit and do homework after school was the town Athenaeum. It’s a wonderfully preserved public library built in 1871. Stop in to appreciate the work of the Fairbanks family, an entrepreneurial Vermont family that gave back generously to the community. Don’t miss the art gallery in the back where you can admire the gigantic Albert Bierstadt painting titled Domes of the Yosemite.

Barnet and Peacham, VT

The town of Peacham holds an unbelievable record of being the most photographed small town in Vermont. You must drive through during summer or fall to truly understand the appeal of Peacham and neighboring Barnet’s rolling hills and perfect farm houses. I recommend taking a dip in Harvey Lake or walking through the scenic old graveyard at Barnet Center Cemetery.

Lake Willoughby, VT

Lake Willoughby as seen from Mount Pisgah in Northern Vermont

The Northeast Kingdom hides one of nature’s greatest creations, Lake Willoughby. Carved out by a giant glacier, the narrow and deep lake stays cold and fresh all year long. You will be rendered speechless as you visit beaches on the north or south end of the lake and gaze out at the water’s serenity and exciting charms of the cliff faces of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor looming overhead. You might get lucky and hear the warble of the local loons that regularly nest on this remote lake. If hiking is your thing, Mount Pisgah has a gorgeous hike that takes you past ponds, boulders, rock faces, and unforgettable overlooks.

The Upper Valley

Straddling the Connecticut River, The Upper Valley of New Hampshire and Vermont offer well-preserved historic villages, plus a bit more hustle-bustle compared to the Northeast Kingdom up the road. Best known as the home of Dartmouth College, Queechee Gorge, or the renowned King Arthur Baking Company. This region deserves at least a day of your time as you bop around Hanover, NH, Norwich, VT and Woodstock, VT.

Hanover, NH

After you spend some time admiring the campus buildings surrounding the Dartmouth College Green (and possibly visiting the Baker Library’s stunning Orozco Room murals), you may need a special place to grab coffee or food. Lou’s Restaurant & Bakery is both an ultimate comfort food destination and an essential Dartmouth institution. If you want less American diner and more Irish pub vibes, then head over to Murphy’s On The Green for excellent bar food.

College towns often have ample coffee shops and Hanover is no exception. Stop into Dirt Cowboy Cafe for a hot cup of their specialty brew sourced from around the globe. My favorite is the Ethiopian Harrar. Umpleby’s Bakery Cafe is newer to the Hanover scene, but is already a favorite due to it’s quality sandwiches, pastry, caffeinated drinks and bright, ample seating areas.

Woodstock / Queechee, VT

Twenty minutes down the road, the neighboring towns of Woodstock and Quechee (pronounced “kwee-chee”) mix natural beauty and historic splendor. Driving over Quechee Gorge might make you feel a twinge of vertigo as you glance into the surprisingly deep valley cut through dense forest, with a moody river far below. If you’re curious about such things, park in one of the lots at the end of the bridge and view the gorge more closely via the bridge edge or by carefully walking the path down through the forest.

As you head west on Route 4, you’ll want to stop at Simon Pearce. This old mill was converted into a glass blowing studio, retail shop, and high-end restaurant over the course of the past 40 years by a skilled artisan from Ireland. Even if hand-blown glass isn’t your thing, it’s a wonderful place to stop just to walk around the mill building and feel the power of the raging river beside you.

A popular destination for tourists, the historic town of Woodstock is small but extremely charming. It feels as though you are walking into a 19th Century movie set of the perfect New England town. Stroll across the Woodstock Covered Bridge and stop into the Cafe into the Mon Vert Cafe for a treat.

Norwich, VT

A visit to the Upper Valley is not complete unless you stop in Norwich to visit both their famous general store, Dan & Whit's, and the quaint Norwich Inn next door. The pub behind Norwich Inn, Jasper Murdock's Alehouse, is small but provides a warm atmosphere. I like stopping in for a drink at the bar where you feel not as much in an inn, but in a historic local pub.

The White Mountains

A stay in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom puts you conveniently alongside the gorgeous, protected White Mountain region across the river in New Hampshire. The gateway to this highland region is a town called Littleton, with a bustling downtown full of adorable shops, antiques, breweries, and a trusty diner.

Littleton, NH

Littleton has been known for a long time as a outdoor enthusiast mecca. Over the past 15 years, Littleton has grown with the times and has become home to a few quality places to eat and drink. Schilling Beer Company took over a 18th Century grist mill and started making various European-style beers and snacks. I recommend trying their house made pizza or pretzels while you sit gazing at the swirling Ammonoosuc River below.

Mere steps from Schilling, you can pick up more sweetness than you can handle, at either the Doughnut Cellar or the long candy counter at Chutters candy store. With your treats in hand, stroll across the river through the Riverwalk Covered Bridge then meander along the banks of the Ammonoosuc where you will certainly find your zen.

Franconia / Sugar Hill / Lincoln, NH

Just a few minutes down the road from Littleton, you will find the heart of the White Mountains. The bucolic town of Sugar Hill hides away an insider cult favorite breakfast stop, Polly’s Pancake Parlor. This pancake parlor is huge, allowing you to look over the nearby mountains while you try a fun variety of pancakes and waffles, with of course local maple syrup and spreads on the side.

Polly’s Pancake Parlor in Sugar Hill, NH

Another 15 minutes down the road you will come to a cluster of New Hampshire State Parks, and my top choice: the trails at The Flume Gorge. The forests and streams within The Flume transport you to the New Hampshire from the brochures; Impossibly verdant with daunting rock formations and rushing water. The Flume trails are not difficult to hike, and the loop takes approximately one hour.

Central Vermont

Central Vermont has a very popular tourist town, Stowe, made famous by a ski resort and with some help from the von Trapp family of The Sound of Music, who built a home and resort hotel after their escape from Europe. Ben & Jerry’s ice cream also opened their factory in neighboring Waterbury (same exit off of I-89), making the visit to this area both a cultural and delicious destination.

Stowe / Waterbury, VT

The Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe is worth a stay if you have a little extra cash, but if not, you can always drop on by anyway to view the impressive gardens or to taste local Austrian-inspired beer and snacks at the von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall. I find that just visiting the lodge with it’s dark chalet-style architecture, makes me want to watch Sound of Music and spend more time getting to know this fascinating musical family that has thrived in Vermont since the 1940s.

Since local beer and food are both clearly a focus when I travel through Vermont, I discovered in Downtown Stowe an excellent brewery called Idyltime Brewing Company that has created a large outdoor garden for distanced drinking.

For outdoor enthusiasts, my favorite hike in Stowe is The Stowe Pinnacle Trail. This popular hike takes a couple hours and has some steep moments, but the rewarding views at the top make it well worth the effort.

Fine dining may not come to mind when you think of Vermont, but in a state with such quality comfort food and drink, you will indeed find a few elevated dining options, like Hen of the Wood-Waterbury. This is the place you might go for an anniversary dinner or when you might want to pop the question to your significant other. Their food is so consistently good, you may get caught up in the meal and forget to take photos of your special moment.

If you’re in Vermont in summer, Creemees (soft serve ice cream) will be on every local’s mind and tongue. The very best can be found at Canteen Creemee Company in Waitsfield or Palmer Lane Maple in Jericho.

Maple Creemee at Canteen Creemee Company

Burlington

Vermont’s Queen City, Burlington is one place I return to every year. In the One Day In Burlington article I wrote last year, I covered my favorite Burlington spots, but this summer I discovered a few more:

As you already know, Vermont is well known for being both beautiful and green, so naturally visitors and locals alike spend a lot of time outdoors. If you’re a lover of gardening, visit the ginormous Gardener's Supply Company in Williston and start envisioning a back-to-nature kind of life you could lead in Vermont. The garden center can work to whet your appetites, but hitting some unpaved trails will really allow you to appreciate the nature of Vermont. I researched deeply and decided to go on three rejuvenating hikes and one epic bike ride:

A bucolic walk throughout the farmland estate and coastline of Shelburne Farms
A rewarding vista from the top of Mt. Philo State Park in Charlotte
A bike ride along Lake Champlain up the Island Line Trail using rented bikes from Local Motion Bike Rentals in Burlington
A woods to lake trail at Niquette Bay State Park in Colchester that featured several Pileated Woodpeckers

Grazing Cows at Shelburne Farms, Vermont

After a rewarding day in nature, explore the hip Winooski food and drink scene! I enjoyed a wonderful walk around the Winooski River and then devoured lobster rolls at Waterworks Food & Drink. Finally, find the energy for an after-dinner drink at one of WInooski’s hip cocktail bars, Misery Loves Co. or Mule Bar.

As is true after every trip to Vermont, I returned to the big city both completely rested and reinvigorated. I promise that if you try some of the above advice, that you, too, will find yourself re-energized and ready to fight a novel coronavirus and other pressing injustices of our modern world.

August 16, 2019

Hiking To Calanque d’En Vau In Southern France

August 16, 2019/ Todd Thomas

You’ve probably seen a photo of Calanque d’En Vau without knowing it’s on the coastline of mainland France, a few short miles from the major city of Marseille. The jewel-tone translucence of the water set against light limestone cliffs can feel just like a Greek Island scene from Mamma Mia!

There are 9 Calanques, or coastal inlets, that stretch along the mountainous coast between Marseille and La Ciotat, and when I decided to visit in June, 2019, I found a lot of varying information about how to best access them and precisely which of the Calanques to visit.

My logistical questions were as follows:

Are the Calanques open in the summer?
Should I visit the Calanques by foot or by boat?
Which Calanque should I choose?

Looking over Port-Miou calanque toward Cassis Bay

Are the Calanques open in summer?

I visited all sorts of official websites and not-so-official forums and got different stories, but from what I understand, the Calanques were given National Park status in 2012 and the dry, mountainous trails covering the land around them also suffered from fires in the recent years, all resulting in attempts to regulate access at risky times of the year. Also, some of the parking lots in the woods north of Cassis (and closer to d’En Vau) may or may not be closed due to various local complaints of overcrowding and/or car theft.

The truth appears to be some of the driving roads are closed from June to November near the Morgiou and Sormiou Calanques (those closest to Marseille). Fortunately, hiking trails to all Calanques remain open through the summer, but are subject to local closure depending on extreme daily conditions or limits set on total daily visitors. Check this website before your visit and show up early to be safe.

I visited Cassis, as many tourists do, and planned to access the Calanques from there. It was early June, and the weather was already an intensely sunny 80°F / 26°C. I had a rental car and drove down early in the morning from Aix-en-Provence, arriving in Cassis to park around 9 AM. I do believe an early arrival was key to both finding a good parking space and surviving the first part of the hike, before midday temperatures peaked.

I chose a parking garage called “Mimosas” at 10 Avenue Augustin Isnard after researching the options around Cassis. It was modern, clean, and felt completely safe. I knew I wanted to spend some time in Cassis’ charming port after the hike, so I chose a lot that would keep me close to town and also allow me to easily swing by the Spar supermarket for water and snacks before the hike.

A note on hydration: I attended Colorado College and while living in Southern Colorado, I spent years hiking the arid, sunny trails of the American southwest. This experience made me insistent on staying properly hydrated, so I insisted my partner and myself each take two 16oz. water bottles on this hike. All I can say is this felt like it was the bare minimum once we began hiking. We were definitely rationing our water by the return trip.

Avenue Augustin Isnard in downtown cassis

Also, you can use the directions feature in Google Maps from your mobile device, set to “walking” mode and it will lead you on the proper hike to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau. I found it really helpful to have the Google Maps trail map on hand to provide peace of mind. Otherwise, it’s hard to go wrong as the trail is rather busy and you simply need to follow the trail signage of red & white stripes (see photo below).

Stay aware of trail markers. The trail to d’En Vau is shared with that of Port Pin

Should I Visit the Calanques by Foot or by Boat?:

You will have options to visit the Calanques by tour boat, kayak, or hiking trail from the town of Cassis. With previous hiking experience and a solid pair of sneakers, I knew I wanted the experience of arriving to the secluded beach by foot. (Plus, I had already taken a boat tour of the Calanques in 2003 and was anxious to get closer to the gorgeous cliffs and coastline).

I was surprised to see so many kayaks in the Calanques. If I were to go back for a third visit, I would choose to rent a kayak and see the coastline from yet another perspective. It seems like a nice compromise between a larger boat tour, and tramping into the Calanques by foot.

Several kayaks docked within the calanque at d’En Vau

Which Calanque To Choose?

After researching online articles and photos, then finally asking our B&B hosts in Provence, we confidently decided to visit d’En Vau. This is one of the hardest Calanques to access by foot, surrounded by some of the more extreme and tall cliff sides, all adding to my desire to visit. In addition, by visiting d’En Vau, you get to experience the town of Cassis and also pass by two other smaller Calanques on the trail, Port-Miou and Port Pin.

Last Leg before the trail opens at the d’En Vau beach

I already mentioned carrying plenty of water, but if you choose to hike into the Calanques, know it is a somewhat challenging hike that takes just under 2 hours each way. It will take you 30 minutes to reach the Port-Miou trail entrance from the center of Cassis, then another 35 minutes to reach Port Pin beach, and finally, another 45 minutes to reach d’En Vau. The most challenging section of this hike is the stretch between Port Pin and d’En Vau as it involves both an ascent and decent, on a trail containing many loose and slippery stones. Be careful on the decent, as there are a couple sections of narrow “bouldering” where you may have to lift yourself down a few spots, and on the busy Saturday I hiked, a couple sections were stressful due to the slow queue of people scrambling down at varying speeds.

Bright midday sun beating down upon the limestone cliffs near the beach at d’En Vau

But don’t be discouraged if you want to experience the hike for yourself! On the trail, I spotted a very pregnant solo hiker, teenagers carrying coolers, and even families with small children. You can probably do it, too. It’s worth it in the end when you’re resting on that perfect pebble beach.

Beach of the Calanque D’en Vau on a busy Saturday

After dedicating a large chunk of your day to this hike and you’re safely back in the town of Cassis, take a well-deserved rest at one of the touristy port-side cafes for a late lunch or some cold beverages! It’s impossible not to enjoy watching the colorful, bobbing sailboats in the harbor or get close to the water’s edge to spot sea creatures swimming by just below the surface.