One Day in Turin, Italy

Turin is the perfect under-the-radar stop if you are travelling through Northern Italy. In fact, I did just that earlier this year, starting my travels in Milan and ending in Paris.

I first got excited about Turin following the life of the Mimi Thorisson on Instagram, a chef who’s beautiful cookbooks make me long to give up my hectic life in NYC and live in Europe full-time. Mimi and family are camping out in Turin for a few years as she prepares a new book on Italian cooking, while her photographer husband documents their not-so-common lifestyle. I went to Turin searching for a unique Italian experience that might live up to the idyllic Italian life the Thorissons portray online.

View of Turin from My Airbnb Apartment

Turin is a quick trip from Milan, as well as a stop along the TGV train line that runs express between Milan and Paris. Bonus: Turin is affordable and not overrun with American tourists! It also offers a lot of bang for your buck: famous historic artifacts (The Shroud), world-class museums, Fiat automobiles, and a thriving old-school cafe culture.

When you arrive at Turin’s modern, central train station, you can probably just walk to your hotel or Airbnb apartment. I booked a gigantic Airbnb flat in central Turin (approx. $90/night) and I was able to walk from the train station to the flat in Centro in just 15 minutes (see the epic view above). If you don’t use a travel backpack like I do, there are several street trains and taxis that can take you from the station into town in just a few minutes. I took public transportation just once, during a rainstorm, and the metro cards can be found in most tobacco shops and convenience stores.

Adorable Via Giuseppe Barbaroux in the Centro neighborhood

MORNING:

Your day in Turin must start out with an espresso, cappuccino, or other such caffeinated Italian classic. I carefully chose a breakfast spot across the Dora Riparia river that was simple and non-touristy: Torre Cremeria Bar. Known for their authentic Sicilian breakfast specialty of granita and brioche, I was in heaven. If you only have one day in Turin and want to stick to a more classic option, however touristy, try the historic Caffè Mulassano or Café Al Bicerin to sample the local “Bicerin” style beverage of layered chocolate, coffee, and creme. This will be a certain method to wake you up and introduce you to the old-world charms respectfully preserved in Turin.

Caffè Mulassano near Turin’s Piazza Castello

After breakfast, you should proceed to walk the length of the city. I recommend first visiting the famous open air markets at the northwestern end of town at Porta Palazzo then proceed south to the Piazza Castello, down the Via Po under its epic sidewalk arcades, to the grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This walk will orient you, give you a taste of some major town squares, and provide you with the scale of town.

View of Turin’s Gran Madre Di Dio Church and the Po River

MID-DAY:

If you find yourself on the the edge of the Po, I recommend you descend to the river’s edge and sit for a few minutes; you’ll pick up on a romantic Parisian Seine vibe as you watch the youth lounging, while sparrows dart playfully about. You will also be reminded of Turin’s northern location in the Piedmont, the foot of the Alps, thanks to distant mountain peaks and surrounding verdant nature.

Cross the river Po and approach the Gran Madre Di Dio Church. On the left side of the church steps you’ll notice a figure holding out a large chalice. You’ve just discovered the Holy Grail! Well, OK, not exactly, but some say it is buried someplace between this statue and the Shroud of Turin in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Stop into the Gran Madre for a quick look around. I was lucky enough to catch a moody church organ rehearsal.

View of Turin’s main Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Mole Antonelliana tower from the steps of the Gran Madre Di Dio Church

Alongside the Gran Madre Di Dio, there’s an excellent choice for lunch, at Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina. Alternatively, you could cross the Po and return to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto to eat at one of the many street cafes surrounding the piazza.

After lunch, you will have to make some very tough decisions! There are several excellent museums to choose from in Turin, but I would prioritize the Museo Egizio, which hosts the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. Other options are Galleria Sabauda for classic European paintings, Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli for modern art, the Villa della Regina royal palace surrounded by gardens and fountains, or the Royal Armoury of Turin for a truly impressive collection of weapons.

A Copy of The Shroud of Turin on Display at Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata

You won’t be able to see the original Shroud of Turin, housed in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, but you can easily view a copy. I enjoyed the visit to the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata and the shrine they created to celebrate the shroud (pictured above). Another site to see as you wonder the streets of Turin is the picturesque Piazza San Carlo surrounded by baroque 17th Century building and statues, not to mention upscale shopping and La Bottega Guido Gobino, known for selling top-quality chocolate treats.

Me Looking Positively gigantic next to a Fiat in Turin

EVENING:

After a long day of exploration and cultural activity, you will want to find an excellent place to dine and unwind. I had a delicious informal, affordable seafood dinner at Pescheria Gallina and the next night, a superb formal Italian meal at Al Gatto Nero. The former will require you show up at opening time to avoid a line, the latter requires an advance reservation.

J, enjoying some fried seafood at Torino’s Pescheria Gallina

Al Gatto Nero and their fantastic dishware

AFTER DINNER:

If you still have some energy post-meal, I recommend a drink at any piazza cafe terrace in town, or at least a gelato from the wonderful Alberto Marchetti. The evening cafe and bar scene around Turin seemed quite youthful and of mediocre quality, so don’t expect something like you would find in big-city Milan. I would recommend if you’re looking for an evening drink, to simply show up to a terrace where locals appear to be enjoying themselves and pick the one with the best atmosphere for you. Service may be slow but someone will come help you eventually. It’s a great chance to try and relax into a slower way of life.

Turin’s covered sidewalk arcades are full of strolling families and youthful activity

Coffee/Snacks:

Alberto Marchetti: Via Po, 35, 10124 Torino TO, Italy (multiple locations)

Café Al Bicerin: Piazza della Consolata, 5, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Caffè Mulassano: Piazza Castello, 15, 10124 Torino TO, Italy

Mara dei Boschi: Via Claudio Luigi Berthollet, 30, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Torre Cremeria Bar: Corso Regio Parco, 28, 10153 Torino TO, Italy (granita!!)

Museums:

Galleria Sabauda: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Museo Egizio: Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli: Via Nizza 230, 103, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Royal Armoury of Turin: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Shopping:

La Bottega, Guido Gobino: Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1, 10123 Torino TO, Italy (chocolate!)

Market of Porta Palazzo: Piazza della Repubblica, 10152 Torino TO, Italy (closed Sunday)

Activities/Sites:

Borgo Medievale de Torino: Viale Virgilio, 107, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista: Piazza San Giovanni, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio: (Holy Grail!) Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Castello: Piazza Castello, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza San Carlo: Piazza S. Carlo, 161, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Vittorio Veneto: Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 10124 Torino, TO, Italy

Santuario della Consolata: Piazza della Consolata, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Villa della Regina: Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Food:

Al Gatto Nero: Corso Filippo Turati, 14, 10128 Torino TO, Italy

Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina: Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4/A, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Osteria Antiche Sere: Via Cenischia, 9, 10139 Torino TO, Italy

Pescheria Gallina: Piazza della Repubblica, 14b, 10152 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Consorzio: Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Solferino: Piazza Solferino, 3, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Scannabue Caffè: Largo Saluzzo, 25/h, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Food and Gelato of Rome

I awoke this morning to a text message from an old boss. I worked for her many years ago on a stressful financial team at Harvard University. I wish I could say I met this surprise text with joy, but in reality, it gave me a dose of instant anxiety. Lucky for me, she was simply asking for travel advice on Rome (she clearly remembers me well!), so to kill two birds with one stone, and because this was clearly a sign from beyond, I will write a post dedicated to my favorite places to indulge in Rome, Italy!

Ahhh, the light in Italy! Sunset at Altare della Patria in Central Rome

First of all, if you haven’t been to Rome, you may not realize how valuable a dinner reservation can be at some of the tastiest restaurants. Tourists and locals alike are competing for the best Italian food, and it should be a priority since it’s Italy after all. Before my latest trip to Rome, in late 2018, I spent an obscene amount of time narrowing down a list of good restaurants so that I could land a coveted dinner reservation. Some I had to compromise by waiting until 9:30 to eat, which may not be late for an Italian but I could barely last the wait! Thankfully, it is worth the trouble to land a spot at any one of these restaurants!

Burrata Cheese from Puglia with Black Pepper and Sundried Cherry Tomatoes from SALUMERIA CON CUCINA ROSCIOLI

This appetizer lives on in my memory as my favorite first bite moment in all of Italy

ROME FOOD:

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina: Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

This place came recommended from several friends and trusted sources. You must book here far in advance, and it’s absolutely worth it. See photo above for proof. I recommend a counter bar seat so you can watch the expert servers at work. If you’re lucky like I was, you may even be seated next to an intriguing group of women from Milan, one of whom named Donatella. I kid you not. Book a spot here.

Flavio Al Velavevodetto: Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Located just south of center Rome, this is easy to get to by subway or quick taxi. Excellent for groups or family dinners and they have outdoor seating, too. Book a spot here.

Ai Tre Scalini: Via Panisperna, 251, 00184 Roma RM, Italy

This famed restaurant has the joyous and informal atmosphere of a much-adored old-fashioned pub, often with patrons spilling out onto the quiet Monti streets. Conveniently located near the Colosseum, it does a great job serving up the classics without the fussy details of some of the other Roman classic restaurants. Book at spot here.

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali: Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9, 00184 Roma RM, Italy (closed Tuesdays) Phone: (+39) 06.67.98.643 or (+39) 328.25.76.999

This place is also located in the central but quiet / hip neighborhood of Monti. They do not take online reservations so you’ll have to call them on the phone (number above). It is a formal restaurant with white tablecloths and well-dressed couples and families. Excellent choice for a romantic dinner. I was convinced to try it after hearing the name come up several times and then discovering this gallery of photos sealed the deal.

Trattoria Da Enzo al 29: Via dei Vascellari, 29, 00153 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays) Phone: (+39) 06 58 12 260 - They accept reservations only for 7.30 PM dinner slots.

I had saved the name of this restaurant and happened to walk by as I was getting hungry at lunchtime. It was a fortunate situation as it turned out to be a charming place and memorable meal! It is informal and feels like an everyday Roman cafe, in the best possible way. You will want to show up early for a walk-in lunch spot, as right after we landed a table, the restaurant totally filled up! Try the fried artichoke.

Armando al Pantheon: Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays)

Ok, I must admit that I didn’t eat here. My partner James was turned off by the fact it is located across from the Pantheon and made some unfair assumptions. Unfortunately for us, we missed out on a table as we hestitated, and later realized we made a huge mistake! Don’t be like us, get moving and book at spot here.

ROME GELATO and GRANITA:

If you’re like me, hardly a day in Italy can be spent without gelato. It’s pretty much mandatory. And on my latest trip to Italy, I learned to love the granita! If you don’t know what granita is, it’s an icy dessert, often of a classic Italian flavor like almond, pistachio, or lemon. You’ll love it.

Fatamorgana: Via dei Chiavari, 37A, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

There are a few locations of this delicious gelato shop, known for inventive flavors and a hip, young following.

Gelateria Artigianale Corona Roma: Largo Arenula, 27, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

I came here on recommendation from a good friend that they have the best almond granita in Rome. I was smitten and hope to go back one day soon!

Pica Alberto: Via della Seggiola, 12, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Old school perfection. Order a pistachio gelato and thank me later.

Come il Latte: Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

Modern and amazing, this gelato shop knocked me off my dessert-loving feet! They give a couple topping options like a wafer cookie or chocolate sauce. I must say I left Rome placing this shop at the very top of my list of sweet indulgence in Italy. And there were so many sweet indulgences in Italy!

La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro: Via degli Orfani, 84, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Close to the Pantheon, this cafe is busy! You should go anyway as the line moves fast. As with some other Italian cafes, first wait in line to order your drink from the cashier. They then give you a ticket for the barista. Order the granita di caffe (coffee granita). Stand at the counter to enjoy, as sitting costs extra.

Order the Granita di Caffe at Rome’s La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro