turin — Journal of All Blog Posts

Turin is the perfect under-the-radar stop if you are travelling through Northern Italy. In fact, I did just that earlier this year, starting my travels in Milan and ending in Paris.

I first got excited about Turin following the life of the Mimi Thorisson on Instagram, a chef who’s beautiful cookbooks make me long to give up my hectic life in NYC and live in Europe full-time. Mimi and family are camping out in Turin for a few years as she prepares a new book on Italian cooking, while her photographer husband documents their not-so-common lifestyle. I went to Turin searching for a unique Italian experience that might live up to the idyllic Italian life the Thorissons portray online.

Turin is a quick trip from Milan, as well as a stop along the TGV train line that runs express between Milan and Paris. Bonus: Turin is affordable and not overrun with American tourists! It also offers a lot of bang for your buck: famous historic artifacts (The Shroud), world-class museums, Fiat automobiles, and a thriving old-school cafe culture.

When you arrive at Turin’s modern, central train station, you can probably just walk to your hotel or Airbnb apartment. I booked a gigantic Airbnb flat in central Turin (approx. $90/night) and I was able to walk from the train station to the flat in Centro in just 15 minutes (see the epic view above). If you don’t use a travel backpack like I do, there are several street trains and taxis that can take you from the station into town in just a few minutes. I took public transportation just once, during a rainstorm, and the metro cards can be found in most tobacco shops and convenience stores.

Adorable Via Giuseppe Barbaroux in the Centro neighborhood

MORNING:

Your day in Turin must start out with an espresso, cappuccino, or other such caffeinated Italian classic. I carefully chose a breakfast spot across the Dora Riparia river that was simple and non-touristy: Torre Cremeria Bar. Known for their authentic Sicilian breakfast specialty of granita and brioche, I was in heaven. If you only have one day in Turin and want to stick to a more classic option, however touristy, try the historic Caffè Mulassano or Café Al Bicerin to sample the local “Bicerin” style beverage of layered chocolate, coffee, and creme. This will be a certain method to wake you up and introduce you to the old-world charms respectfully preserved in Turin.

Caffè Mulassano near Turin’s Piazza Castello

After breakfast, you should proceed to walk the length of the city. I recommend first visiting the famous open air markets at the northwestern end of town at Porta Palazzo then proceed south to the Piazza Castello, down the Via Po under its epic sidewalk arcades, to the grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This walk will orient you, give you a taste of some major town squares, and provide you with the scale of town.

View of Turin’s Gran Madre Di Dio Church and the Po River

MID-DAY:

If you find yourself on the the edge of the Po, I recommend you descend to the river’s edge and sit for a few minutes; you’ll pick up on a romantic Parisian Seine vibe as you watch the youth lounging, while sparrows dart playfully about. You will also be reminded of Turin’s northern location in the Piedmont, the foot of the Alps, thanks to distant mountain peaks and surrounding verdant nature.

Cross the river Po and approach the Gran Madre Di Dio Church. On the left side of the church steps you’ll notice a figure holding out a large chalice. You’ve just discovered the Holy Grail! Well, OK, not exactly, but some say it is buried someplace between this statue and the Shroud of Turin in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Stop into the Gran Madre for a quick look around. I was lucky enough to catch a moody church organ rehearsal.

View of Turin’s main Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Mole Antonelliana tower from the steps of the Gran Madre Di Dio Church

Alongside the Gran Madre Di Dio, there’s an excellent choice for lunch, at Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina. Alternatively, you could cross the Po and return to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto to eat at one of the many street cafes surrounding the piazza.

After lunch, you will have to make some very tough decisions! There are several excellent museums to choose from in Turin, but I would prioritize the Museo Egizio, which hosts the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. Other options are Galleria Sabauda for classic European paintings, Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli for modern art, the Villa della Regina royal palace surrounded by gardens and fountains, or the Royal Armoury of Turin for a truly impressive collection of weapons.

A Copy of The Shroud of Turin on Display at Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata

You won’t be able to see the original Shroud of Turin, housed in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, but you can easily view a copy. I enjoyed the visit to the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata and the shrine they created to celebrate the shroud (pictured above). Another site to see as you wonder the streets of Turin is the picturesque Piazza San Carlo surrounded by baroque 17th Century building and statues, not to mention upscale shopping and La Bottega Guido Gobino, known for selling top-quality chocolate treats.

Me Looking Positively gigantic next to a Fiat in Turin

EVENING:

After a long day of exploration and cultural activity, you will want to find an excellent place to dine and unwind. I had a delicious informal, affordable seafood dinner at Pescheria Gallina and the next night, a superb formal Italian meal at Al Gatto Nero. The former will require you show up at opening time to avoid a line, the latter requires an advance reservation.

J, enjoying some fried seafood at Torino’s Pescheria Gallina

Al Gatto Nero and their fantastic dishware

AFTER DINNER:

If you still have some energy post-meal, I recommend a drink at any piazza cafe terrace in town, or at least a gelato from the wonderful Alberto Marchetti. The evening cafe and bar scene around Turin seemed quite youthful and of mediocre quality, so don’t expect something like you would find in big-city Milan. I would recommend if you’re looking for an evening drink, to simply show up to a terrace where locals appear to be enjoying themselves and pick the one with the best atmosphere for you. Service may be slow but someone will come help you eventually. It’s a great chance to try and relax into a slower way of life.