A Lesson Learned: Validate Transportation Tickets!

It has been two months since I made this mistake in Siena, Italy, and I remain a little annoyed. I can’t decide if I’m more angry at myself or the Italian public transportation system that sets tourists up for hefty fines by selling open tickets requiring you to validate them once on board using awkward stamping machines. 

Always read the fine print!

As an American who has lived in several major cities, I sometimes get too confident when I approach a new bus or train system. After all, I constantly use public buses and rail systems as my daily transportation in my home city and during all of my travels. I always buy tickets, I tap my pass or ticket before I enter systems; I simply try and follow the rules. However, In my recent visit to Italy I found myself a recipient of a hefty fine for failing to validate a bus ticket onboard.

You Are A Visitor and You Follow Local Laws and Customs

This is a warning to all travelers: Every city and system differs in how they check transportation tickets. Some require you to validate them before entry, some drivers assist you upon entry, some tickets are only valid for one particular date and time, and some tickets require validation using a time-stamp machine inside the vehicle. I knew about these various options, of course, and even used self-validation machines on this same trip. Where I went wrong was following locals entering a bus using the rear door, where there wasn’t a validation machine, and proceeding to forget about my ticket validation. Of course at the end of my bus journey I was caught with an un-validated ticket at my destination. This simple mistake resulted in a hefty $60 fine. It didn’t matter to the officer that my bus ticket was properly purchased that very same day. It didn’t matter that I was a tourist in town for one day only, nor that I was not caught trying to sell the ticket or use it twice. All that mattered is that I didn’t follow the rules of the system I was riding. 

Don’t Ruin Your Day

While I have had time to accept my error, I did spend a lot of time over-thinking this fine. As much as I wanted the ticketing agent to forgive my oversight, to sympathize with a foreign tourist and see that I wasn’t doing anything malicious with my un-validated ticket, the truth is I failed to follow the local system rules. I had to deal with the consequences. Even if paying a fine on top of the original ticket price felt wrong, that didn’t matter in this moment. I knew there were better ways that their validation system should work to prevent this: perhaps an announcement from the driver, a sign on the bus, or requiring riders to enter in the front and go by the validation machine. As an American, I think our agents tend to forgive the rider who makes an unintentional error. I certainly do not want to bring with me an indignant sense of entitlement abroad to cloud the fact that I made a mistake in Italy. No one wants to be an angry “Karen” when caught in the wrong.

The Tabacco shop in siena where I paid my fine

Paying the Fine

My options at the time of ticketing were: 1) I could give the ticketing officer my credit card on the street and immediately pay the fine using his portable reader or 2) he could print a paper ticket and I would have 6 days to pay it within Italy (at a tobacco shop!) before the fine would otherwise double and they would send a collection agency after me using my home address.

I wasn’t willing to risk paying the inflated $120 fine for a delayed payment due to my stubborn and bruised ego, so I took the paper ticket and paid at a tobacco shop of my choosing the next day. I considered just not paying it, but then I envisioned a security agent at the airport the next time I tried to enter Italy taking me aside to a back room to pointing out my name on some long Italian black-list of delinquent travelers. I decided to bite the bullet and pay my fine before it became a worse situation. I will note that it was a minor consolation the cashier at the tobacco shop was sincerely sympathetic as she helped me process my payment. 

You live, you learn!

Bari, Italy: Puglia's Lively Capital

Italy can inspire even the grumpiest person to crack a big smile. Boiling over with history, art, natural beauty, and remarkably scrumptious food, it simply checks all the feel-good boxes. Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan draw in some of the world’s largest tourist crowds each year. But there is another part of Italy that might appeal more to your sense of adventure, desire for authenticity, and search for the perfect aquamarine beach! This article is all about the wonderful Italian city of Bari, in the southeastern region of Puglia.

La Scaletta Beach outside Monopoli

BARI

The city of Bari, a place that flies under the average tourist’s radar, is much more than a capital city of the gorgeous Puglia region, or just a departure port for ferries crossing the Adriatic. I first thought I would visit Bari for a few hours, then want to quickly descend into the rest of Puglia to enjoy the quaint coastal towns and to escape urban hustle. Following an exciting first afternoon exploring Bari, I decided to stay a few additional days to soak it all up. Below are some takeaways from this recent stay.

Just The Right Size For Walking

Bari is a lovely medium-sized city (approx 300k); large enough to support excellent culinary and cultural options (including Teatro Petruzzelli, an ornate Theater-Opera house!), but also small and flat enough you can do it all on foot. The city sits directly on the Adriatic Sea, and is so pedestrian friendly they have even preserved and converted their ancient fortress/sea wall into the easily accessible pedestrian walkway, Via Venezia. This elevated pedestrian path allows you to encircle the old town while also looking out at the sea. You will find locals walking here and enjoying the dolce vita at all hours, but especially in the evenings where even on the most random weeknight, you will find thriving local life enjoying their gorgeous city.

Memorable Food

We know Italy has some of the best food around. This is true in Puglia and well-on-display throughout Bari. If you’re really interested in Italian pasta, you may have heard about the famous Pasta Grannies. Bari has a bunch of these internationally celebrated women who spend their days opening up their homes, setting out tables, and allowing pedestrians to sample and purchase freshly formed pasta like the famous Apuglian ear-shaped orecchiette.

There are several other special foods found easily directly from these street vendors: Fried polenta (sgagliozza), warm Barisian foccacia bread with cherry tomatoes, crispy rolled taralli bread, or deep-fried panzerotti (similar to a calzone), and others.

Classic Coffee & Pastry Bars

Something I love to do when visiting any new town is to figure out a list of all the best coffee shops. Sometimes that can look like sitting down with a colorful mug of 3rd Wave filtered coffee, delivered by hipsters in over-sized sweatshirts. But in Italy, I prefer to go where the old-timers go: an classic cafe or pastry shop. Bari is no exception to the Italian cafe stereotype you may be imagining, and you can easily discover these atmospheric cafe counters, where sharply-dressed baristas efficiently serve a line of locals, standing confidently with an espresso cup in hand. You have little choice but to join in on the tradition and leave your comfort zone behind.

My favorite spot in Bari is Pasticceria Rex dal 1960 with a close second going to Boccia Pasticceria (both pictured below).

Pasticceria Rex

Boccia Pasticceria

Local Street Culture

I touched on in the city’s walkability, but something you pick up on as you cross town multiple times are some unique aspects of a city’s street culture. In Bari, the city isn’t yet taken over by tourism. There are still old Italian families living on the small streets of the ancient city’s interior. And those people live out on the streets in a way I haven’t often seen in a capital city. You will see families extending their living rooms out onto the city streets. They use mops to clean the gorgeous stone streets, placing out dining and card tables, leaving children’s toys out, and of course decorating the walls outside their front doors with personal and local items such as flowering cactus leaves, religious figures, ribbons, and balloons.

Basilica di San Nicola from the Via Venezia

Bari’s old town is an endlessly charming maze

History

As a port city on the Adriatic sea, Bari has a long history, touched by many cultures, but mainly that of old Greek and Roman rule. Bari is currently home to the giant 11th-century Basilica di San Nicola, a key pilgrimage site, that still holds the remains of St. Nicholas. The old town is full of reminders of the past, all on open public display: from incredibly narrow streets, to countless ancient chapels and unmarked hefty columns preserved in place after old roofs and walls proved less sturdy. Also, you can find reused stone relics from these lost walls, like a carving of Mother Mary placed randomly on its side to construct a back alley stairwell. Even a section of ancient Roman road sits unearthed. So many opportunities to reach out and touch history.

Location Location Location

Puglia may seem a little isolated when you look at the map, but don’t let that discourage you. Located southeast from most of Italy’s major tourist spots, it could be considered a trek when compared to other accessible tourist zones throughout Italy. But, if you are coming from Rome, there are frequent fast trains to Bari, and in just 4 relaxing hours (I suggest reserving the quiet train car), you will walk out into another world that is Puglia, and the zany crowds of Rome will quickly fade into memory. Bari and Brindisi also host small airports if you’re hoping to Puglia from another city in Europe, but I came directly by train from Florence and found the trip enjoyable. I suggest using Bari as a base for exploring the smaller coastal and mountain towns of Pulgia. Day trip-worthy hot-spots include Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, Ostuni, Lecce, and Matera.

An ancient post in the Bari Old City, once used to tie up criminals for public humiliation

Fishing boat at the Harbor, a place you can watch fishermen selling their daily catch

When to Visit Puglia

I found a way to make this wonderful place even better: visit in October. After two weeks of exploration around Italy by train this October, I don’t think I will ever return in any another season. Olives are starting to drop from the trees, weather is ideal, and it’s noticeably less crowded. Unless you’re a fan of sweating through multiple shirts a day or are searching for holiday markets, just trust me on this one and book your next trip in October.

I spent a summer studying in Italy as a college student, and I recall the pleasure — and also the absolute need— for mid-day naps. This wonderful Italian tradition serves as a cool escape from the intimidating strength of the southern summer sunshine. While naps are fun, sunny days that don’t absolutely destroy your energy levels are infinitely better when you actually want to explore all that Italy has to offer. I would gladly trade long, scorching summer days for 70 degree comfort. This is what I found all over Italy in October, but especially in the southern area of Puglia, where the beaches were still gorgeous and warm, but didn’t make me want to nap under the shade of the nearest beach cave.

A sunbather on the coast just south of Bari Province’s Gorgeous city of Monopoli

Orvieto, Italy: The Ultimate Day Trip From Rome or Florence

Orvieto is well-known in Italy as one of most impressive hilltop village in the central Umbria region, adorned with a giant cathedral. However, if you’re visiting Italy for the first or second time, it might not yet be on your radar. This article was written for you!

On an Italian vacation, you probably seek an experience that takes you beyond delicious pasta, perhaps to the streets of a gorgeous, historical town in order to imagine what life looked like hundreds of years ago. And in towns like Orvieto, you’ll encounter endless reminders of the ancient past, so it’s easy to revel in that experience. Inspect the gorgeous architecture and design up close without too many distractions or reminders of the modern world.

Orvieto Cathedral (Duomo di Orvieto)

The history of this Umbrian town is a fascinating one: beginning as an ancient Etruscan settlement, the city grew upwards as well as downwards, in the form of deep wells, pathways, cavernous storage and even habitation throughout underground tunnels carved deep into the rock below the town. I recommend taking a guided tour of these subterranean tunnels to learn more, and for a break from the Italian sunshine!

I mentioned Orvieto was built upon a hill, but it’s really located atop a giant volcanic plug. A volcanic plug is the circular neck of volcanic rock that hardens within an extinct volcano’s vent. Then, over the years, land erodes away from the rock, leaving a giant butte standing in nature. And this appealed to ancient Italians as a strategic spot to build a defensible town. In present day, Orvieto is more accessible than it used to be, and it’s been wonderfully preserved with amazing views at every turn!

The view of Umbrian countryside from the walls of Orvieto

Orvieto Cathedral

In 1290, the construction began on the large cathedral that overshadows present-day Orvieto. It took nearly 300 years to complete, so the cathedral contains a wonderful mix of styles and features from throughout the centuries. This includes a rose window, bronze doors, frescoes, mosaics, and more. The facade is particularly arresting, covered in intensely-detailed bas-relief carvings and statues. Not uncommon in Italy at the time, the sides of the cathedral are simply decorated in alternating white and grey stone stripes, a theme that is present on the interior of the cathedral as well.

Detail from the facade of the Orvieto Cathedral

Ceramic Culture

Umbria is an Italian region famous for a tradition of ceramics, and Orvieto is one of the towns with a long-established history of ceramic production and design, along with the smaller villages of Deruta, Gualdo, Tadino and Gubbio. The art of terracotta ceramics with majolica glaze developed in Umbria due to the abundance of rich clay soil, water sources, and forests with the ideal wood for stoking kilns. When visiting Orvieto, be sure to pop into one of the many ceramics shops along Via del Duomo and and bring home a unique treasure. I bought one of my favorite mugs in Orvieto, covered in a unique golden and turquoise design.

L’Orvietan shop in Orvieto: Excellent spot to buy local products like soap and wooden spoons

How To Get There

Orvieto has it’s own stop on both local and express trains running North-South through Italy. Located conveniently between Rome and Florence, you can be there in between 1 and 2 hours from either. Now here’s the interesting part: Orvieto has a train station, but to get into town, you do something quite fun: ride a funicular tram up the side of city’s steep walls. Funicular tickets costs € 1.30 per person and the experience makes for an exciting entrance into this medieval town.

Palazzo del Popolo in Orvieto

Restaurants

Antica Cantina: Corso Cavour, 212, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Bar Montanucci: Corso Cavour, 21, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Trattoria la Palomba: Via Cipriano Manente, 16, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Shopping

Ceramiche Bellocci: Via del Duomo, 41, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Ceramiche Fusari: Corso Cavour, 431, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

L'Orvietan: Via del Duomo, 74, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Activities and Sights

Duomo di Orvieto: Piazza del Duomo, 26, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Etruscan Museum "Claudio Faina": Piazza del Duomo, 29, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Orvieto Underground: Piazza del Duomo, 23, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Palazzo del Popolo: Piazza del Popolo, 1, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Torre del Moro Orvieto: Corso Cavour, n° 87, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

One Day in Turin, Italy

Turin is the perfect under-the-radar stop if you are travelling through Northern Italy. In fact, I did just that earlier this year, starting my travels in Milan and ending in Paris.

I first got excited about Turin following the life of the Mimi Thorisson on Instagram, a chef who’s beautiful cookbooks make me long to give up my hectic life in NYC and live in Europe full-time. Mimi and family are camping out in Turin for a few years as she prepares a new book on Italian cooking, while her photographer husband documents their not-so-common lifestyle. I went to Turin searching for a unique Italian experience that might live up to the idyllic Italian life the Thorissons portray online.

View of Turin from My Airbnb Apartment

Turin is a quick trip from Milan, as well as a stop along the TGV train line that runs express between Milan and Paris. Bonus: Turin is affordable and not overrun with American tourists! It also offers a lot of bang for your buck: famous historic artifacts (The Shroud), world-class museums, Fiat automobiles, and a thriving old-school cafe culture.

When you arrive at Turin’s modern, central train station, you can probably just walk to your hotel or Airbnb apartment. I booked a gigantic Airbnb flat in central Turin (approx. $90/night) and I was able to walk from the train station to the flat in Centro in just 15 minutes (see the epic view above). If you don’t use a travel backpack like I do, there are several street trains and taxis that can take you from the station into town in just a few minutes. I took public transportation just once, during a rainstorm, and the metro cards can be found in most tobacco shops and convenience stores.

Adorable Via Giuseppe Barbaroux in the Centro neighborhood

MORNING:

Your day in Turin must start out with an espresso, cappuccino, or other such caffeinated Italian classic. I carefully chose a breakfast spot across the Dora Riparia river that was simple and non-touristy: Torre Cremeria Bar. Known for their authentic Sicilian breakfast specialty of granita and brioche, I was in heaven. If you only have one day in Turin and want to stick to a more classic option, however touristy, try the historic Caffè Mulassano or Café Al Bicerin to sample the local “Bicerin” style beverage of layered chocolate, coffee, and creme. This will be a certain method to wake you up and introduce you to the old-world charms respectfully preserved in Turin.

Caffè Mulassano near Turin’s Piazza Castello

After breakfast, you should proceed to walk the length of the city. I recommend first visiting the famous open air markets at the northwestern end of town at Porta Palazzo then proceed south to the Piazza Castello, down the Via Po under its epic sidewalk arcades, to the grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This walk will orient you, give you a taste of some major town squares, and provide you with the scale of town.

View of Turin’s Gran Madre Di Dio Church and the Po River

MID-DAY:

If you find yourself on the the edge of the Po, I recommend you descend to the river’s edge and sit for a few minutes; you’ll pick up on a romantic Parisian Seine vibe as you watch the youth lounging, while sparrows dart playfully about. You will also be reminded of Turin’s northern location in the Piedmont, the foot of the Alps, thanks to distant mountain peaks and surrounding verdant nature.

Cross the river Po and approach the Gran Madre Di Dio Church. On the left side of the church steps you’ll notice a figure holding out a large chalice. You’ve just discovered the Holy Grail! Well, OK, not exactly, but some say it is buried someplace between this statue and the Shroud of Turin in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Stop into the Gran Madre for a quick look around. I was lucky enough to catch a moody church organ rehearsal.

View of Turin’s main Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Mole Antonelliana tower from the steps of the Gran Madre Di Dio Church

Alongside the Gran Madre Di Dio, there’s an excellent choice for lunch, at Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina. Alternatively, you could cross the Po and return to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto to eat at one of the many street cafes surrounding the piazza.

After lunch, you will have to make some very tough decisions! There are several excellent museums to choose from in Turin, but I would prioritize the Museo Egizio, which hosts the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. Other options are Galleria Sabauda for classic European paintings, Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli for modern art, the Villa della Regina royal palace surrounded by gardens and fountains, or the Royal Armoury of Turin for a truly impressive collection of weapons.

A Copy of The Shroud of Turin on Display at Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata

You won’t be able to see the original Shroud of Turin, housed in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, but you can easily view a copy. I enjoyed the visit to the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata and the shrine they created to celebrate the shroud (pictured above). Another site to see as you wonder the streets of Turin is the picturesque Piazza San Carlo surrounded by baroque 17th Century building and statues, not to mention upscale shopping and La Bottega Guido Gobino, known for selling top-quality chocolate treats.

Me Looking Positively gigantic next to a Fiat in Turin

EVENING:

After a long day of exploration and cultural activity, you will want to find an excellent place to dine and unwind. I had a delicious informal, affordable seafood dinner at Pescheria Gallina and the next night, a superb formal Italian meal at Al Gatto Nero. The former will require you show up at opening time to avoid a line, the latter requires an advance reservation.

J, enjoying some fried seafood at Torino’s Pescheria Gallina

Al Gatto Nero and their fantastic dishware

AFTER DINNER:

If you still have some energy post-meal, I recommend a drink at any piazza cafe terrace in town, or at least a gelato from the wonderful Alberto Marchetti. The evening cafe and bar scene around Turin seemed quite youthful and of mediocre quality, so don’t expect something like you would find in big-city Milan. I would recommend if you’re looking for an evening drink, to simply show up to a terrace where locals appear to be enjoying themselves and pick the one with the best atmosphere for you. Service may be slow but someone will come help you eventually. It’s a great chance to try and relax into a slower way of life.

Turin’s covered sidewalk arcades are full of strolling families and youthful activity

Coffee/Snacks:

Alberto Marchetti: Via Po, 35, 10124 Torino TO, Italy (multiple locations)

Café Al Bicerin: Piazza della Consolata, 5, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Caffè Mulassano: Piazza Castello, 15, 10124 Torino TO, Italy

Mara dei Boschi: Via Claudio Luigi Berthollet, 30, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Torre Cremeria Bar: Corso Regio Parco, 28, 10153 Torino TO, Italy (granita!!)

Museums:

Galleria Sabauda: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Museo Egizio: Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli: Via Nizza 230, 103, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Royal Armoury of Turin: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Shopping:

La Bottega, Guido Gobino: Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1, 10123 Torino TO, Italy (chocolate!)

Market of Porta Palazzo: Piazza della Repubblica, 10152 Torino TO, Italy (closed Sunday)

Activities/Sites:

Borgo Medievale de Torino: Viale Virgilio, 107, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista: Piazza San Giovanni, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio: (Holy Grail!) Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Castello: Piazza Castello, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza San Carlo: Piazza S. Carlo, 161, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Vittorio Veneto: Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 10124 Torino, TO, Italy

Santuario della Consolata: Piazza della Consolata, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Villa della Regina: Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Food:

Al Gatto Nero: Corso Filippo Turati, 14, 10128 Torino TO, Italy

Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina: Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4/A, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Osteria Antiche Sere: Via Cenischia, 9, 10139 Torino TO, Italy

Pescheria Gallina: Piazza della Repubblica, 14b, 10152 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Consorzio: Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Solferino: Piazza Solferino, 3, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Scannabue Caffè: Largo Saluzzo, 25/h, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Food and Gelato of Rome

I awoke this morning to a text message from an old boss. I worked for her many years ago on a stressful financial team at Harvard University. I wish I could say I met this surprise text with joy, but in reality, it gave me a dose of instant anxiety. Lucky for me, she was simply asking for travel advice on Rome (she clearly remembers me well!), so to kill two birds with one stone, and because this was clearly a sign from beyond, I will write a post dedicated to my favorite places to indulge in Rome, Italy!

Ahhh, the light in Italy! Sunset at Altare della Patria in Central Rome

First of all, if you haven’t been to Rome, you may not realize how valuable a dinner reservation can be at some of the tastiest restaurants. Tourists and locals alike are competing for the best Italian food, and it should be a priority since it’s Italy after all. Before my latest trip to Rome, in late 2018, I spent an obscene amount of time narrowing down a list of good restaurants so that I could land a coveted dinner reservation. Some I had to compromise by waiting until 9:30 to eat, which may not be late for an Italian but I could barely last the wait! Thankfully, it is worth the trouble to land a spot at any one of these restaurants!

Burrata Cheese from Puglia with Black Pepper and Sundried Cherry Tomatoes from SALUMERIA CON CUCINA ROSCIOLI

This appetizer lives on in my memory as my favorite first bite moment in all of Italy

ROME FOOD:

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina: Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

This place came recommended from several friends and trusted sources. You must book here far in advance, and it’s absolutely worth it. See photo above for proof. I recommend a counter bar seat so you can watch the expert servers at work. If you’re lucky like I was, you may even be seated next to an intriguing group of women from Milan, one of whom named Donatella. I kid you not. Book a spot here.

Flavio Al Velavevodetto: Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Located just south of center Rome, this is easy to get to by subway or quick taxi. Excellent for groups or family dinners and they have outdoor seating, too. Book a spot here.

Ai Tre Scalini: Via Panisperna, 251, 00184 Roma RM, Italy

This famed restaurant has the joyous and informal atmosphere of a much-adored old-fashioned pub, often with patrons spilling out onto the quiet Monti streets. Conveniently located near the Colosseum, it does a great job serving up the classics without the fussy details of some of the other Roman classic restaurants. Book at spot here.

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali: Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9, 00184 Roma RM, Italy (closed Tuesdays) Phone: (+39) 06.67.98.643 or (+39) 328.25.76.999

This place is also located in the central but quiet / hip neighborhood of Monti. They do not take online reservations so you’ll have to call them on the phone (number above). It is a formal restaurant with white tablecloths and well-dressed couples and families. Excellent choice for a romantic dinner. I was convinced to try it after hearing the name come up several times and then discovering this gallery of photos sealed the deal.

Trattoria Da Enzo al 29: Via dei Vascellari, 29, 00153 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays) Phone: (+39) 06 58 12 260 - They accept reservations only for 7.30 PM dinner slots.

I had saved the name of this restaurant and happened to walk by as I was getting hungry at lunchtime. It was a fortunate situation as it turned out to be a charming place and memorable meal! It is informal and feels like an everyday Roman cafe, in the best possible way. You will want to show up early for a walk-in lunch spot, as right after we landed a table, the restaurant totally filled up! Try the fried artichoke.

Armando al Pantheon: Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays)

Ok, I must admit that I didn’t eat here. My partner James was turned off by the fact it is located across from the Pantheon and made some unfair assumptions. Unfortunately for us, we missed out on a table as we hestitated, and later realized we made a huge mistake! Don’t be like us, get moving and book at spot here.

ROME GELATO and GRANITA:

If you’re like me, hardly a day in Italy can be spent without gelato. It’s pretty much mandatory. And on my latest trip to Italy, I learned to love the granita! If you don’t know what granita is, it’s an icy dessert, often of a classic Italian flavor like almond, pistachio, or lemon. You’ll love it.

Fatamorgana: Via dei Chiavari, 37A, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

There are a few locations of this delicious gelato shop, known for inventive flavors and a hip, young following.

Gelateria Artigianale Corona Roma: Largo Arenula, 27, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

I came here on recommendation from a good friend that they have the best almond granita in Rome. I was smitten and hope to go back one day soon!

Pica Alberto: Via della Seggiola, 12, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Old school perfection. Order a pistachio gelato and thank me later.

Come il Latte: Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

Modern and amazing, this gelato shop knocked me off my dessert-loving feet! They give a couple topping options like a wafer cookie or chocolate sauce. I must say I left Rome placing this shop at the very top of my list of sweet indulgence in Italy. And there were so many sweet indulgences in Italy!

La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro: Via degli Orfani, 84, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Close to the Pantheon, this cafe is busy! You should go anyway as the line moves fast. As with some other Italian cafes, first wait in line to order your drink from the cashier. They then give you a ticket for the barista. Order the granita di caffe (coffee granita). Stand at the counter to enjoy, as sitting costs extra.

Order the Granita di Caffe at Rome’s La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro