Marseille: France's Famous Port City Now A Hip Destination

Marseille has been long avoided by tourists due to an unfavorable reputation. This reputation, that Marseille is a town overrun with corruption, danger, and poverty has been slowly improving over the last several years, but just watch an episode of Netflix’s show “Marseille” (with the amazing French actor Gérard Depardieu) and you’ll see that it still has plenty of room for improvement. Consequently, many tourists end up choosing nearby vacation classics instead, like the tidy Aix-en-Provence, the gorgeous coastal calanques, or the tony French Riviera.

Looking down on Marseille from the Saint Charles train station

I began to read more about Marseille in the last few years, and wanted to give France’s second largest city a chance. It is, after all, conveniently located: on the Mediterranean coast with an airport, TGV station, and a large fleet of tour boats arriving and departing daily. Hearing Anthony Bourdain describe Marseille as “exactly the kind of place I like” didn’t hurt, either.

Marseille harbor outdoor market

I can confirm the Marseille of today is both fun and gorgeous, and with thanks of recent investments in infrastructure and cultural centers, it will leave you impressed and bragging to friends about the discoveries you made. Indulge in the surprisingly good pizza or African cuisine scene, or play it safe with some classic seafood bouillabaisse. Be sure to stop at the many shops selling local artisan soap and olive oils, or enjoy a boat cruise to the calanques. Just walking through the city streets, you will be forced to admit this town exceeds expectations and is anything but boring.

moroccan and tunisian Home GOods in the Noailles Neighborhood

Escaliers du Cours Julien

Old Port of Marseille

Settled by the Greeks in antiquity as a strategic port for trade, the city grew due to it’s large, natural harbor on the Mediterranean Sea. The port of Marseille now supports 45,000 jobs and brings over 4 billion Euros to the local economy. Today, the port’s main industries are petroleum refining and shipbuilding, but there are also more interesting products made in Marseille, like soap, linens, and olive oil.

Color coordination in the harbor

Cleaning ships in the harbor of Marseille

Maison Empereur

The large, wonderful shop called Maison Empereur, located in downtown Marseille, is the place to go for everything you might need for the home. As a tourist, this could include locally made soap, spices, dishware, knives, and much more. I spent at least an hour exploring Maison Empereur’s many rooms and will definitely stop here on any return trip to Marseille. I live in NYC, but I found myself wishing I had a shop like this nearby.

Local spices at Maison Empereur

Local Marseille soaps sold at Maison Empereur

Panier District

My favorite area in Marseille is the Panier, an ancient district centrally located just off the port. This district is known for its museums, arts, quality dining and the second oldest church in Europe, the Cathedral de la Major. I recommend finding a hotel or home-stay near the the Panier so you can easily explore the treasures of the Panier at all hours.

The Panier is also home to the fascinating MuCEM Museum, where you can learn more about the local Mediterranean history and culture. This museum makes for an interesting visit not just for the education it provides, but due also to the ambitious architectural design. MuCEM, located on the very end of the harbor and surrounded on 3 sides by water, provides an unparalleled platform to admire the expanse of the harbor, the colors of the land and sea, and soak up some French sunshine. The museum has many landings, bridges, and patios, all making for a thrilling chance to explore the gorgeous Mediterranean setting from an exciting, interactive modern structure.

MuCEM provides 360° views of city and sea

Bull on Stilts sculpture by Marseille City Hall

In the Panier, you will also notice an exciting display of locally produced street art, painted on the sides of buildings and stairways throughout the neighborhood. I recommend strolling through the streets of the upper Panier to admire the skillful artwork, on your way to eat at a great restaurant like Entre Terre & Mer or to learn more about the local sport of pétanque at Maison de la Boule.

Street art in Panier District

Afternoon light in the Panier District

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Panier District street art

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Recommendations to Consider

COFFEE & PASTRY:

Bernie Coffee: 7 Place de Rome, 13006 Marseille, France

Bricoleurs de Douceurs (Pastry): 202 Chemin du Vallon de l'Oriol, 13007 Marseille, France

Coogee (Coffee / Breakfast): 100 Boulevard Baille, 13005 Marseille, France

7VB Café (Coffee): 9 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS:

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13281 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major: Place de la Major, 13002 Marseille, France

Les Escaliers du Cours Julien (Street Art Area): Rue Estelle, 13006 Marseille, France

Maison de la Boule (Pétanque Museum): 4 Place des 13 Cantons, 13002 Marseille, France

MuCEM: Musée Des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée: 1 Espl. J4, 13002 Marseille, France

SHOPPING:

Le Bazar de César Savonnerie (Soap / Gifts): 4 Montée des Accoules, 13002 Marseille, France

Maison Empereur (Home Goods Shop): 4 Rue des Récolettes, 13001 Marseille, France

72% Pétanque (Soap / Gifts): 10 Rue du Petit Puits, 13002 Marseille, France

FOOD:

Chez Etienne (Pizza): 43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

Chez Saveur (Pizza): 10 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille, France

Entre Terre & Mer (seafood): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

Lacaille (Local French): 42 Rue des trois Mages, 13006 Marseille, France

La Cantinetta (Italian): 24 Cours Julien, 13006 Marseille, France

Le Bouchon Provençal (Local French): 6 Place aux Huiles, 13001 Marseille, France

Maison Geney (Cafe, Breakfast or Lunch): 38 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

Restaurant Le Femina (Couscous): 1 Rue du Musée, 13001 Marseille, France

Restaurant Michel (Bouillabaisse Specialist): 6 Rue des Catalans, 13007 Marseille, France

BARS:

Cafe de l’Abbaye: 3 Rue d'Endoume, 13007 Marseille, France

Carry Nation: Adresse secrète!, 13006 Marseille, France (must reserve here to receive the address)

WHERE TO STAY:

Au Vieux Panier ($$): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

InterContinental Marseille ($$$): 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major as seen from MuCEM

Hiking To Calanque d’En Vau In Southern France

You’ve probably seen a photo of Calanque d’En Vau without knowing it’s on the coastline of mainland France, a few short miles from the major city of Marseille. The jewel-tone translucence of the water set against light limestone cliffs can feel just like a Greek Island scene from Mamma Mia!

There are 9 Calanques, or coastal inlets, that stretch along the mountainous coast between Marseille and La Ciotat, and when I decided to visit in June, 2019, I found a lot of varying information about how to best access them and precisely which of the Calanques to visit.

My logistical questions were as follows:

1. Are the Calanques open in the summer?

2. Should I visit the Calanques by foot or by boat?

3. Which Calanque should I choose?

Looking over Port-Miou calanque toward Cassis Bay

Are the Calanques open in summer?

I visited all sorts of official websites and not-so-official forums and got different stories, but from what I understand, the Calanques were given National Park status in 2012 and the dry, mountainous trails covering the land around them also suffered from fires in the recent years, all resulting in attempts to regulate access at risky times of the year. Also, some of the parking lots in the woods north of Cassis (and closer to d’En Vau) may or may not be closed due to various local complaints of overcrowding and/or car theft.

The truth appears to be some of the driving roads are closed from June to November near the Morgiou and Sormiou Calanques (those closest to Marseille). Fortunately, hiking trails to all Calanques remain open through the summer, but are subject to local closure depending on extreme daily conditions or limits set on total daily visitors. Check this website before your visit and show up early to be safe.

I visited Cassis, as many tourists do, and planned to access the Calanques from there. It was early June, and the weather was already an intensely sunny 80°F / 26°C. I had a rental car and drove down early in the morning from Aix-en-Provence, arriving in Cassis to park around 9 AM. I do believe an early arrival was key to both finding a good parking space and surviving the first part of the hike, before midday temperatures peaked.

Sailboats in the Cassis Bay

I chose a parking garage called “Mimosas” at 10 Avenue Augustin Isnard after researching the options around Cassis. It was modern, clean, and felt completely safe. I knew I wanted to spend some time in Cassis’ charming port after the hike, so I chose a lot that would keep me close to town and also allow me to easily swing by the Spar supermarket for water and snacks before the hike.

A note on hydration: I attended Colorado College and while living in Southern Colorado, I spent years hiking the arid, sunny trails of the American southwest. This experience made me insistent on staying properly hydrated, so I insisted my partner and myself each take two 16oz. water bottles on this hike. All I can say is this felt like it was the bare minimum once we began hiking. We were definitely rationing our water by the return trip.

Avenue Augustin Isnard in downtown cassis

Also, you can use the directions feature in Google Maps from your mobile device, set to “walking” mode and it will lead you on the proper hike to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau. I found it really helpful to have the Google Maps trail map on hand to provide peace of mind. Otherwise, it’s hard to go wrong as the trail is rather busy and you simply need to follow the trail signage of red & white stripes (see photo below).

Stay aware of trail markers. The trail to d’En Vau is shared with that of Port Pin

Should I Visit the Calanques by Foot or by Boat?:

You will have options to visit the Calanques by tour boat, kayak, or hiking trail from the town of Cassis. With previous hiking experience and a solid pair of sneakers, I knew I wanted the experience of arriving to the secluded beach by foot. (Plus, I had already taken a boat tour of the Calanques in 2003 and was anxious to get closer to the gorgeous cliffs and coastline).

I was surprised to see so many kayaks in the Calanques. If I were to go back for a third visit, I would choose to rent a kayak and see the coastline from yet another perspective. It seems like a nice compromise between a larger boat tour, and tramping into the Calanques by foot.

Several kayaks docked within the calanque at d’En Vau

Which Calanque To Choose?

After researching online articles and photos, then finally asking our B&B hosts in Provence, we confidently decided to visit d’En Vau. This is one of the hardest Calanques to access by foot, surrounded by some of the more extreme and tall cliff sides, all adding to my desire to visit. In addition, by visiting d’En Vau, you get to experience the town of Cassis and also pass by two other smaller Calanques on the trail, Port-Miou and Port Pin.

Last Leg before the trail opens at the d’En Vau beach

I already mentioned carrying plenty of water, but if you choose to hike into the Calanques, know it is a somewhat challenging hike that takes just under 2 hours each way. It will take you 30 minutes to reach the Port-Miou trail entrance from the center of Cassis, then another 35 minutes to reach Port Pin beach, and finally, another 45 minutes to reach d’En Vau. The most challenging section of this hike is the stretch between Port Pin and d’En Vau as it involves both an ascent and decent, on a trail containing many loose and slippery stones. Be careful on the decent, as there are a couple sections of narrow “bouldering” where you may have to lift yourself down a few spots, and on the busy Saturday I hiked, a couple sections were stressful due to the slow queue of people scrambling down at varying speeds.

Bright midday sun beating down upon the limestone cliffs near the beach at d’En Vau

But don’t be discouraged if you want to experience the hike for yourself! On the trail, I spotted a very pregnant solo hiker, teenagers carrying coolers, and even families with small children. You can probably do it, too. It’s worth it in the end when you’re resting on that perfect pebble beach.

Beach of the Calanque D’en Vau on a busy Saturday

After dedicating a large chunk of your day to this hike and you’re safely back in the town of Cassis, take a well-deserved rest at one of the touristy port-side cafes for a late lunch or some cold beverages! It’s impossible not to enjoy watching the colorful, bobbing sailboats in the harbor or get close to the water’s edge to spot sea creatures swimming by just below the surface.

Boats in the Bay of Cassis