Put A Star On It: Using Google Maps To Organize A Trip

One of my favorite trip planning tricks is taking advantage of the dynamic tools within Google Maps to organize travel ideas. Google Maps can do so much to assist you: from storing favorite places to helping you choose a restaurant with the most romantic interior, plus measuring travel times and distances for road trips, hikes, bike rides, and more. The more you learn to use Google Maps’ many features, the more you will depend on it to plan vacation travel. My own Google Map now stores all of my favorite places across the globe, and helps to provide valuable insight and context to guide my every travel whim.

Using the Default Map vs. Creating Your Own Personal Map

You can use Google Maps in a couple ways: 1) you can build a personal map for a specific trip, or 2) you can keep it simple and utilize the default map, which you should do whether or not you have a trip in mind. Either way, I promise it’s fun and enormously helpful once you start using it. Don’t forget to log into your own Google account first, then anything you build or change will be saved to your account and you can access it anywhere.

If you decide you want to create a personal map (Menu >> Your Places >> Maps >> Create Map), there are design perks like color coding or selecting icons as labels for places. You can also share a personal map easily with friends. I prefer creating a personal map if I’m designing a trip for someone else so they can access, read, and understand it clearly. For my own personal travels, I typically use the default map, mainly saving places of interest using stars and flags, sneaking a peak of a place using Street View or place images, restaurant reviews, and more. Google Maps allows me to not just prepare for specific trips, but also to build a network of places all over the globe that become useful at totally unpredictable times!

Stars and Flags

In Google Maps, search for a place and click on it, and as you probably know you can read reviews and view the photographs submitted by fellow Google users. My favorite planning tool is to simply click the Save button and store a place to my default Google Map using a star or flag so I can find it again later. If you glance at my default Google Map, you will see approximately four thousand stars and flags I’ve placed all over the world, not because I’ve been to all of these places, but because I ran across them in an article, on Instagram, or while speaking with friends over dinner. Even if I am not certain I’ll ever make it to the place, I will place a star there just in case. I can’t remember all the times I have been grateful of my map of saved stars, realizing the cafe I’d read about two years ago happens to be right around the corner during a business trip to Chicago, for example. Some people go a step further and use various label types such as Favorites, Want to go, or a custom label name.

Porto, Portugal map showing my personal selection of stars and flags

Street View or Satellite View

I know I’m a visual learner, but I think everyone can appreciate previewing a place before their trip. For example, if you you want to understand better how the area around that Airbnb apartment looks, you can do the walk the area in advance using the Street View feature in Google Maps. Trust me, it will feel comfortable when you’re there in person and you know a bit more what to expect. When you “walk around” a neighborhood or view more images of a specific foreign spot, you can become both increasingly excited to visit and even ease some anxieties that pop up about logistics when you visit someplace new. 

Directions

I don’t know about you, but I remember first using various map websites (Mapquest!) to simply print out step-by-step driving directions. Google Maps of course does this, but they can also reveal travel options and distances by car, train, bus, subway, bike or even by foot. 

Download Maps for Offline Use

Finally, right before leaving for a trip, I download maps of any destination city, so I know I’ll have details and directions in that place available to me even without internet. Instructions on how to download a map to your phone are simple. Open Google Maps on your phone and search for the location you want to save. Tap the bottom info bar and then tap Download. Choose the perimeters of the area you want to save and you’re done! You’ll find your downloaded offline map in Menu >> Offline Maps.

Crafting A Customized Travel Document

What Is This Travel Document You Speak Of?

If you have never created one, you may need some convincing before you spend time building your own travel document. As you know, there are several excellent guide books in print, so why not just spend $20 on a pretty guide book, circle the things you want to see, and take margin notes for the rest?

Great point! It’s tempting and I used to travel that way; armed with a trusted guide book or two, a few notes scribbled here and there. But over the years, I found myself frustrated using guide books that were only 20% applicable to my trip, forced to maneuver the verbose and impersonal design of some corporate publication. Eventually, I took total control over my own trips and had a ton of fun in the process.

This Sounds Like Too Much Work!

It is work, but it’s purely the good kind! I find the process of planning for an upcoming trip to be as exciting as much of the trip itself, especially when the destination will be my first visit and the research is completely fresh. I am often asked by friends for travel advice, like favorite restaurants and museums, but one less obvious thing I love about travel is the creation of a beloved, customized travel document.

What Does A Travel Document Look Like?

A travel document can look exactly how you want it to look! But it should act as a catch-all for any solid plans, exciting options, and emergency information needed before and during a trip. A personalized, totally customized travel guide made by you, for you. My personalized travel document usually includes these sections:

Daily Itinerary A table. Each day gets its own row and a few daily goals or any booked reservations

Emergency Information Mostly phone numbers (bank, family, etc)

Flight Details Airlines, departure and arrival times, airport transport detail

Hotel / Lodging Information Address, phone, directions, booking numbers

Rental Car Information Booking number, location

Restaurants Reservations, lunch ideas, and back-up options

Shopping Home good stores, clothing, local specialty shops, markets, etc

Culture and Activities Museums, parks, excursions

Bars I like to have a list of exceptional beer, wine, and liquor stops should the occasion arise

Coffee & Treats This helps me track all the top rated coffee shops in the area, but also where I list pastry shops, candy stores, ice cream, etc

OK, Let’s Get This Party Started

I create my travel documents using Google Docs, then share it with my partner. It becomes a working document we build together after getting ideas from reading various guide books, articles and speaking with well-traveled friends. Eventually we order ideas by priority, star items that interest us most and figure out which activities need advanced booking.

Fear of Structure?

You may dislike the idea of making too many decisions in advance of your trip. Organizing your options in advance should never feel like it’s squashing the excitement of travel. You never want to eliminate every element of discovery by writing your itinerary in stone before leaving home, but you want to do enough organized research, that when you find yourself with free time, you have your travel document as both a wonderful resource and ultimately a time-saver that doesn’t leave you scrambling for a plan in a foreign place.

And don’t forget, since you designed your travel document, you feel more empowered to pick and choose your own adventure before and during your travels!

The Best Food and Drink of Harvard Square

Cambridge, Massachusetts, with an impressive history as a lasting academic center in United States higher education, has long attracted intellectuals and artists from around the world. As English America’s first planned village, founded in 1630, and home to America’s oldest University (Harvard), the area deserves a visit for anyone interested in American history or fantastic bookstores (shout-out to Harvard Bookstore!).

Fortunately, Harvard Square, the area of Cambridge that surrounds Harvard University, has an appeal that far surpasses a typical college town. After living within the bounty of New York City for several years, I still think fondly of the 6 years I lived in Cambridge. Balancing both its fascinating history and now, a quality food scene, Harvard Square is an enriching place to spend a few days.

Harvard Yard, Harvard University

Below find my absolute favorite Harvard Square spots for quality food and drink:

Alden & Harlow - Best Fancy Dinner

I end up in Boston at least once a year for either work or pleasure, and have chosen Alden & Harlow the past three visits for a nice or romantic dinner stop. Using local farms and fisheries, Alden & Harlow has a really fresh and delicious take on preparing local ingredients. I recommend trying the three-onion dip and Berkshire crispy pork belly.

40 Brattle St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Alden & Harlow restaurant in Harvard Square

Border Cafe - Best Casual Dinner

While this is not the place to go for traditional Mexican fare, you are guaranteed a fun tex-mex meal, surrounded by a diverse cross-section of the Cambridge social scene. I especially enjoy the free chips and salsa, and always choose the frozen margarita!

32 Church St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Pinocchio's Pizza & Subs - Best Slice

You may find yourself just hungry enough to indulge in a slice of pizza on the go. If this occurs during your stay in Cambridge, you should absolutely head to Pinocchio’s. You’ll be met by hilarious painted wall murals and an eclectic selection of old photographs. Local celebrities Mark Wahlberg, Ben Affleck, and Matt Damon apparently stop here, so if that convinces you to try it, then cool! For the rest of you, you’ll just have to trust me.

74 Winthrop St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Darwin’s, Ltd. - Best Lunch Sandwich

A good sandwich can make a magical meal. And unlike some good dinners, I never seem to forget a good sandwich! Darwin’s was my regular stop for 6 years and never got old. You may encounter a line at lunchtime, but any wait is well worth it. Sandwich options are many, and bread choices are fresh baked! Also take note of the case of local cookies or shelves of excellent wines.

148 Mt Auburn St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Darwin’s sandwich counter

Tatte Bakery & Café - Best Pastry

I didn’t want to include Tatte on this list, as they started opening in the Boston area after I moved away, but after just a couple visits, I was won over. Stepping into their Harvard Square cafe, you will notice a buzz that can only come from serving up the very best. Just try walking past their cases full of fresh-baked pastries and pies — you won’t make it out of here the same weight as you walked in.

1288 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Tatte Bakery & Cafe in Harvard Square

Flour Bakery - Famous Sticky Buns

Selecting between the excellent local bakery options is difficult. This is why you’ll find a few on this list! But Flour, founded by a Harvard grad, serves up some of the best sweets in the square, especially the famous sticky bun. This place is also popular if you need a spot to sit and study, as there are several tables.

114 Mt Auburn St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Hi-Rise Bread Company - Best Cup of Coffee

Hi-Rise does a lot of things right. Interior decor is adorable. Breads, sandwiches, and pastries are top-notch (like the apricot-filled brioche). But this place is also a favorite for a cup of joe from their high-quality coffee bar, using beans from Counter Culture Coffee.

1663 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Hi-RIse Cafe next to the Harvard Law School, Cambridge

L.A. Burdick Chocolates - Best Chocolate Treats

Sometimes you find yourself chilled by the New England winds and just need a hot cup of thick hot chocolate. It’s nothing like the hot chocolate you’ve had from a dry mix. This stylish Brattle Street shop also sells chocolate mice, which are a wonderfully unique gift.

52 Brattle St, Cambridge, MA 02138

L.A. Burdick Chocolates, Harvard Square

The Sinclair - Hippest Bar

Sometimes you grow tired of a traditional tavern or pub, so ubiquitous to the Boston area. The Sinclair is a wonderful alternative if you want an good selection of quality cocktails and the very best of local brews. Attached to a lively music venue, you can’t help but feel energized by the cool space and quality drinks.

52 Church St, Cambridge, MA 02138

The Sinclair Bar and Event Venue in Harvard Square

Shay's Pub & Wine Bar - Best Pub

Finally, a classic Cambridge pub! You should plop yourself down at Shay’s and enjoy a cool glass of beer and maybe even one of their delicious burgers. Located in the basement level on JFK Street, you’ll feel at ease here. So do as the Harvard students do, stay and keep the drinks coming.

58 John F. Kennedy St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Shay's Pub & Wine Bar in Harvard Square

The 10 Best Bakeries in New York City For Specialty Treats

New York City offers just about everything in the area of baked goods. Finding the perfect spot for a sweet, bready treat should not be a hard task, but there are a many mediocre places to sift through before finding the true gems.

This list below names not only my favorite shops that produce their own baked goods, but also places that have one or two specialty treats that I deem go above and beyond the competition.

Bourke Street Bakery - Ginger Brûlée Tart

This bakery is a relatively new competitor to the NYC scene. However, back in Sydney, Australia, the quality of Bourke Street is well known. Located just north of Madison Square Park, between Flatiron and Koreatown, this bakery is central, as well as spacious. I was surprised to see how much quality seating they provide for the bakery visit when you absolutely cannot wait another minute to eat your treats.

15 E 28th St, New York, NY 10016

Bourke Street Bakery’s Ginger Creme Brûlée Tart with Pistachio

Levain Bakery - Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie

Levain began on the Upper West Side as a bitty, below-ground producer of breads and cookies. Fortunately, the phenomenal quality caught on and there are now a few additional locations around the city (and one in the Hamptons) with much shorter lines than the original on 74th Street. The Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie is the masterpiece to purchase, but only for those you love dearly. An honorable mention must also go to the Bomboloncini doughnut disk filled with raspberry jam.

167 W 74th St, New York, NY 10023

Levain Bakery’s Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Cookie

Daily Provisions - Cruller

This bakery near Union Square shot quickly into fame thanks to their gorgeously designed cafe and rather instagrammable specialty: Dipped Crullers. They carry maple and cinnamon as regulars, but my favorite is snagging one of their specialty colors and flavors such as the rainbow pride edition or red strawberry. An additional location just opened on the Upper West Side.

103 E 19th St, New York, NY 10003

Daily Provisions' Cruller

Daily Provisions' Cruller After the first bite, revealing an airy, moist interior

Four & Twenty Blackbirds - Salty Honey Pie

A Brooklyn favorite for years, Four & Twenty has earned their reputation for excellent pies. The best location is the original on Third Avenue in Gowanus, but they have a pie bar in Prospect Heights. After living in Brooklyn for the past 4 years, I’ve begun to wonder if it’s really holiday season without a Salty Honey Pie.

439 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

Four & Twenty Blackbirds’ famous Salty Honey Pie

Orwashers Bakery - Jelly Filled Donut

Orwashers, an Upper East Side institution, not only has an adorable shop with friendly service and several excellent regular treats from Italian rainbow cookies to the Jewish classics like rugelach and hamantaschen. My favorite remains their dedicated station for filling donuts with fresh Upstate New York jelly, before your very eyes!

308 E 78th St, New York, NY 10075

The Jelly Filling Station at Orwashers on the Upper East Side

William Greenberg Desserts - Black & White Cookie

There’s been a lot of attention given to the traditional New York cookie known as the “black and white”. And while everyone may have their go-to spot, I can say I’ve tried more than most and the only ones I keep coming back to are the cookies at William Greenberg. I’ve made it a tradition of sorts, each visit I pay to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I swing by William Greenberg to grab a B&W. Special shout out to their red velvet variety.

1100 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10028

Breads Bakery - Babka

Breads sure did its best to turn me off at first. Located next to Union Square and The New School, every visit was annoyingly crowded with students and made me wonder what the appeal was all about. Then, thankfully, I was pointed in the direction of their chocolate babka. I stopped by one morning before the students were awake, and ate some of the best babka in existence. Now I get it. And thankfully, they’ve opened a few additional locations.

18 E 16th St, New York, NY 10003

Breads’ Chocolate Babka

Dominique Ansel Bakery - Kouign Amann

This place is a semi-upscale French bakery, and known for the dessert phenomenon of 2013, the Cronut. Thankfully, you should know this place produces other quality french classics like the kouign amann. Known at Dominuqe Ansel as The DKA, their kouign amann is a wonderful balance of crispy chewy caramel and dense pastry. It’s the best I’ve found in the US. Just go get one, OK?

189 Spring St, New York, NY 10012

officially team DKA

The Hungarian Pastry Shop - Napoleon Pastry

This shop makes my top 10 list for so many reasons: 1) Nerdy Columbia students who sit here wishing they were studying abroad in Europe. 2) Producers of desserts you don’t find in most other bakeries. 3) Old-school service with white takeaway boxes and red string. 4) Located across the street from the massive Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine. And finally, 5) a baked creation called a Napoleon pastry. Beige in color, you might not understand the appeal of this mille-feuille creation at first, but once you get a bite of the frosted, crunchy layers with an overflowing custard middle, you will begin planning more weekend excursions to Morningside Heights.

1030 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10025

The Hungarian Pastry Shop

Bakeri - Best Bakery All Around

Bakeri is the like the bakery one dreams about finding, hidden in the coolest nook of Brooklyn, but doesn’t ever seem to actually exist. Luckily for us all, it does exist, and it’s run by a group of women who wear utilitarian jumpsuits and produce dozens of expertly baked items, served up on vintage service ware at marble tables! You cannot miss this place on your next outing to the hip neighborhood of Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

105 Freeman St, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Bakeri in Greenpoint, Brooklyn is Excellent All-Around

Marseille: France's Famous Port City Now A Hip Destination

Marseille has been long avoided by tourists due to an unfavorable reputation. This reputation, that Marseille is a town overrun with corruption, danger, and poverty has been slowly improving over the last several years, but just watch an episode of Netflix’s show “Marseille” (with the amazing French actor Gérard Depardieu) and you’ll see that it still has plenty of room for improvement. Consequently, many tourists end up choosing nearby vacation classics instead, like the tidy Aix-en-Provence, the gorgeous coastal calanques, or the tony French Riviera.

Looking down on Marseille from the Saint Charles train station

I began to read more about Marseille in the last few years, and wanted to give France’s second largest city a chance. It is, after all, conveniently located: on the Mediterranean coast with an airport, TGV station, and a large fleet of tour boats arriving and departing daily. Hearing Anthony Bourdain describe Marseille as “exactly the kind of place I like” didn’t hurt, either.

Marseille harbor outdoor market

I can confirm the Marseille of today is both fun and gorgeous, and with thanks of recent investments in infrastructure and cultural centers, it will leave you impressed and bragging to friends about the discoveries you made. Indulge in the surprisingly good pizza or African cuisine scene, or play it safe with some classic seafood bouillabaisse. Be sure to stop at the many shops selling local artisan soap and olive oils, or enjoy a boat cruise to the calanques. Just walking through the city streets, you will be forced to admit this town exceeds expectations and is anything but boring.

moroccan and tunisian Home GOods in the Noailles Neighborhood

Escaliers du Cours Julien

Old Port of Marseille

Settled by the Greeks in antiquity as a strategic port for trade, the city grew due to it’s large, natural harbor on the Mediterranean Sea. The port of Marseille now supports 45,000 jobs and brings over 4 billion Euros to the local economy. Today, the port’s main industries are petroleum refining and shipbuilding, but there are also more interesting products made in Marseille, like soap, linens, and olive oil.

Color coordination in the harbor

Cleaning ships in the harbor of Marseille

Maison Empereur

The large, wonderful shop called Maison Empereur, located in downtown Marseille, is the place to go for everything you might need for the home. As a tourist, this could include locally made soap, spices, dishware, knives, and much more. I spent at least an hour exploring Maison Empereur’s many rooms and will definitely stop here on any return trip to Marseille. I live in NYC, but I found myself wishing I had a shop like this nearby.

Local spices at Maison Empereur

Local Marseille soaps sold at Maison Empereur

Panier District

My favorite area in Marseille is the Panier, an ancient district centrally located just off the port. This district is known for its museums, arts, quality dining and the second oldest church in Europe, the Cathedral de la Major. I recommend finding a hotel or home-stay near the the Panier so you can easily explore the treasures of the Panier at all hours.

The Panier is also home to the fascinating MuCEM Museum, where you can learn more about the local Mediterranean history and culture. This museum makes for an interesting visit not just for the education it provides, but due also to the ambitious architectural design. MuCEM, located on the very end of the harbor and surrounded on 3 sides by water, provides an unparalleled platform to admire the expanse of the harbor, the colors of the land and sea, and soak up some French sunshine. The museum has many landings, bridges, and patios, all making for a thrilling chance to explore the gorgeous Mediterranean setting from an exciting, interactive modern structure.

MuCEM provides 360° views of city and sea

Bull on Stilts sculpture by Marseille City Hall

In the Panier, you will also notice an exciting display of locally produced street art, painted on the sides of buildings and stairways throughout the neighborhood. I recommend strolling through the streets of the upper Panier to admire the skillful artwork, on your way to eat at a great restaurant like Entre Terre & Mer or to learn more about the local sport of pétanque at Maison de la Boule.

Street art in Panier District

Afternoon light in the Panier District

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Panier District street art

Seafood at Entre Terre & Mer in Marseille’s Panier

Recommendations to Consider

COFFEE & PASTRY:

Bernie Coffee: 7 Place de Rome, 13006 Marseille, France

Bricoleurs de Douceurs (Pastry): 202 Chemin du Vallon de l'Oriol, 13007 Marseille, France

Coogee (Coffee / Breakfast): 100 Boulevard Baille, 13005 Marseille, France

7VB Café (Coffee): 9 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

ACTIVITIES & MUSEUMS:

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13281 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major: Place de la Major, 13002 Marseille, France

Les Escaliers du Cours Julien (Street Art Area): Rue Estelle, 13006 Marseille, France

Maison de la Boule (Pétanque Museum): 4 Place des 13 Cantons, 13002 Marseille, France

MuCEM: Musée Des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée: 1 Espl. J4, 13002 Marseille, France

SHOPPING:

Le Bazar de César Savonnerie (Soap / Gifts): 4 Montée des Accoules, 13002 Marseille, France

Maison Empereur (Home Goods Shop): 4 Rue des Récolettes, 13001 Marseille, France

72% Pétanque (Soap / Gifts): 10 Rue du Petit Puits, 13002 Marseille, France

FOOD:

Chez Etienne (Pizza): 43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille, France

Chez Saveur (Pizza): 10 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille, France

Entre Terre & Mer (seafood): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

Lacaille (Local French): 42 Rue des trois Mages, 13006 Marseille, France

La Cantinetta (Italian): 24 Cours Julien, 13006 Marseille, France

Le Bouchon Provençal (Local French): 6 Place aux Huiles, 13001 Marseille, France

Maison Geney (Cafe, Breakfast or Lunch): 38 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France

Restaurant Le Femina (Couscous): 1 Rue du Musée, 13001 Marseille, France

Restaurant Michel (Bouillabaisse Specialist): 6 Rue des Catalans, 13007 Marseille, France

BARS:

Cafe de l’Abbaye: 3 Rue d'Endoume, 13007 Marseille, France

Carry Nation: Adresse secrète!, 13006 Marseille, France (must reserve here to receive the address)

WHERE TO STAY:

Au Vieux Panier ($$): 13 Rue du Panier, 13002 Marseille, France

InterContinental Marseille ($$$): 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille, France

Cathédrale La Major as seen from MuCEM

Orvieto, Italy: The Ultimate Day Trip From Rome or Florence

Orvieto is well-known in Italy as one of most impressive hilltop village in the central Umbria region, adorned with a giant cathedral. However, if you’re visiting Italy for the first or second time, it might not yet be on your radar. This article was written for you!

On an Italian vacation, you probably seek an experience that takes you beyond delicious pasta, perhaps to the streets of a gorgeous, historical town in order to imagine what life looked like hundreds of years ago. And in towns like Orvieto, you’ll encounter endless reminders of the ancient past, so it’s easy to revel in that experience. Inspect the gorgeous architecture and design up close without too many distractions or reminders of the modern world.

Orvieto Cathedral (Duomo di Orvieto)

The history of this Umbrian town is a fascinating one: beginning as an ancient Etruscan settlement, the city grew upwards as well as downwards, in the form of deep wells, pathways, cavernous storage and even habitation throughout underground tunnels carved deep into the rock below the town. I recommend taking a guided tour of these subterranean tunnels to learn more, and for a break from the Italian sunshine!

I mentioned Orvieto was built upon a hill, but it’s really located atop a giant volcanic plug. A volcanic plug is the circular neck of volcanic rock that hardens within an extinct volcano’s vent. Then, over the years, land erodes away from the rock, leaving a giant butte standing in nature. And this appealed to ancient Italians as a strategic spot to build a defensible town. In present day, Orvieto is more accessible than it used to be, and it’s been wonderfully preserved with amazing views at every turn!

The view of Umbrian countryside from the walls of Orvieto

Orvieto Cathedral

In 1290, the construction began on the large cathedral that overshadows present-day Orvieto. It took nearly 300 years to complete, so the cathedral contains a wonderful mix of styles and features from throughout the centuries. This includes a rose window, bronze doors, frescoes, mosaics, and more. The facade is particularly arresting, covered in intensely-detailed bas-relief carvings and statues. Not uncommon in Italy at the time, the sides of the cathedral are simply decorated in alternating white and grey stone stripes, a theme that is present on the interior of the cathedral as well.

Detail from the facade of the Orvieto Cathedral

Ceramic Culture

Umbria is an Italian region famous for a tradition of ceramics, and Orvieto is one of the towns with a long-established history of ceramic production and design, along with the smaller villages of Deruta, Gualdo, Tadino and Gubbio. The art of terracotta ceramics with majolica glaze developed in Umbria due to the abundance of rich clay soil, water sources, and forests with the ideal wood for stoking kilns. When visiting Orvieto, be sure to pop into one of the many ceramics shops along Via del Duomo and and bring home a unique treasure. I bought one of my favorite mugs in Orvieto, covered in a unique golden and turquoise design.

L’Orvietan shop in Orvieto: Excellent spot to buy local products like soap and wooden spoons

How To Get There

Orvieto has it’s own stop on both local and express trains running North-South through Italy. Located conveniently between Rome and Florence, you can be there in between 1 and 2 hours from either. Now here’s the interesting part: Orvieto has a train station, but to get into town, you do something quite fun: ride a funicular tram up the side of city’s steep walls. Funicular tickets costs € 1.30 per person and the experience makes for an exciting entrance into this medieval town.

Palazzo del Popolo in Orvieto

Restaurants

Antica Cantina: Corso Cavour, 212, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Bar Montanucci: Corso Cavour, 21, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Trattoria la Palomba: Via Cipriano Manente, 16, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Shopping

Ceramiche Bellocci: Via del Duomo, 41, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Ceramiche Fusari: Corso Cavour, 431, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

L'Orvietan: Via del Duomo, 74, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Activities and Sights

Duomo di Orvieto: Piazza del Duomo, 26, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Etruscan Museum "Claudio Faina": Piazza del Duomo, 29, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Orvieto Underground: Piazza del Duomo, 23, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Palazzo del Popolo: Piazza del Popolo, 1, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

Torre del Moro Orvieto: Corso Cavour, n° 87, 05018 Orvieto TR, Italy

A Perfect Day in Avignon, France

Pont d’Avignon

Avignon is one of my favorite spots on the planet. In 2003, I spent a semester living within the walls of Avignon’s old town, studying French, devouring local pastries and, well, sampling a lot of Avignon’s bars— you know, a typical American college student abroad. So, after years of growing up and seeing much more of the world, I wondered if I had romanticized Avignon due to that unique moment in life, or if I would still enjoy it today.

Finally, this spring, I returned to answer this question once and for all. And to my surprise, Avignon charmed me even more as a 30-something adult.

In this post, I will reveal all of my favorite spots and activities. And because I like to think I’m ahead of the trend, I wasn’t surprised to learn the Obama family spent a week in Avignon just two weeks after my own visit. So, be like me and the Obamas: consider Avignon as an upcoming trip destination.

The Papal Palace of Avignon

As I mentioned in my post on Turin, I took a train trip from Milan to Marseille earlier this year, and Avignon was my first stop in France. I’m in love with the European train system and avoid renting a car whenever possible. If you’re like me, you’ll be happy to know Avignon has two major train stations, a TGV station and a Center station. Both stations are connected by a small train that runs frequently (or a $30 cab ride), so don’t worry if you book a trip to Avignon on TGV then look at a map. It’s not far away and the speed of the TGV makes Avignon a really easy place to reach from Paris, Lyon, Marseille and beyond.

The Historic Facade of Hôtel des Monnaies, built in 1619

So, what are the best reasons to visit Avignon in Southern France? Aside from the obvious beauty and location on the edge of the wonderful regions of Luberon and Provence, Avignon is steeped in a unique history and still supports a thriving artistic culture you’ll want to take a day or two to experience.

Avignon was the seat of the Pope way back in the 14th Century, when the Palais des Papes was built. It is an imposing Gothic structure in the center of town, the largest of the world’s medieval buildings. In modern times, Avignon’s Papal Palace no longer hosts the Pope, but the city remains an important cultural hub in Europe. There’s a popular theater festival hosted in Avignon every July, when the entire city becomes a stage to hundreds of performances. Also, the opera house hosts performers from all over Europe.

MORNING

Begin your day with a view of the town from above! The Jardin des Doms sits high upon the massive “rocher”, a stone hill that sits just behind the palace. From the edge of this garden, you will be able to view the city’s rooftops, the spires of the palace, the Rhone river, and the rolling hills beyond.

Knowing a bit about this interesting papal history, you should prioritize a visit to the Palais des Papes, where you will be impressed by the sheer enormity and quality of construction. There are countless courtyards, towers, and gardens to explore within.

Take a leisurely pace when walking around Avignon’s winding streets. There are several trompe-l’oeil frescoes to spot on building walls. Avignon’s streets and squares also hosts several excellent outdoor markets for local produce, tablecloths, antiques, and more. Check this local website to learn where the local market will be held on the day(s) of your visit.

Jardin des doms in Avignon

LUNCH

I recommend visiting Les Halles d'Avignon, a large indoor market where you can find dozens of vendors selling breads, meats, cheeses, produce, and more! Collect fresh regional items and make yourself a picnic if the weather is nice (and the weather is almost always nice in Southern France!)

Perfect sunlight of Southern France upon a building facade in Avignon

AFTERNOON

You have many options, but I recommend going on a bike ride to see a bit of your surroundings. I booked an electric bike tour in advance with South Spirit Bike Tours at 54 Rue Limas (allow 2 hours for tour) and was able to see the famous bridge, old city walls, fruit orchards of the Île de la Barthelasse, and the picture-perfect town of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon with its gorgeous medieval Fort Saint-André. This neighboring town is where the Obamas stayed and it’s full of quiet charm and impressive views of Avignon in the distance.

If museums are more your speed, consider the Musée Calvet, a free museum displaying the celebrated and diverse collection of Esprit Calvet. The museum has sections of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artifacts, paintings from Dutch masters to modern, sculpture, and more. Additionally, the Collection Lambert , with a 10 Euro entry fee, provides a modern gallery space featuring daring installation art, modern paintings, and an otherwise important permanent collection.

Biking across Île de la Barthelasse toward Fort Saint-André

Gate at La Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction monastery in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

LATE AFTERNOON

You’ll certainly be getting tired after biking and walking the old town, so why not break for a wine sampling at Le Vin Devant Soi, a wonderful wine shop that lets you sample many local wines. You simply load 20 Euros onto a card, grab a glass, and help yourself to wines from a brilliant system of automated spouts. It’s fast, easy, and puts you in charge of your wine experience. Side note: if you want less wine than 20 Euros worth, they will kindly refund any money you don’t use on the card at the end of your visit. While I was skeptical at first, I really enjoyed this experience for the control I was able to have in determining which wines and how much I tasted of each. No need to ask for a pour or wait for a server— and the tables outside of the shop are below the most enchanting of all doorways in Avignon (see photo below).

Le Vin Devant Soi in Avignon

Avignon is in the middle of a progressive construction project, where they are increasing the pedestrian streets within the city walls. This means that some city squares have been freed up for cafe terraces and public artwork. One of these squares is the Place Saint-Didier, where there was once a small car lot, but is now a gorgeous open square full of cafe seating, children playing, and the best people-watching in town! I recommend sitting at the Grand Café Barretta’s beautiful outdoor seating with a coffee, wine, or beer. Relax and watch the locals.

Place Saint-Didier, hidden in Avignon’s center, is an ideal spot to relax in town

EVENING

You have several excellent options for a quality meal and drinks out on the town in Avignon. Below are several recommendations that result from a mix of personal experience, research, and recommendations from the experts at my Avignon B&B.

Restaurants:

La Cuisine de Papa: 7 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, France

La Fourchette: 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, France

Le Petit Gourmand: 37 Rue du Vieux Sextier, 84000 Avignon, France

Maison de la Tour: 9 Rue de la Tour, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant Chez Mimmo: 19 Rue du Chapeau Rouge, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant Fou de Fafa: 17 Rue Des Trois Faucons, 84000 Avignon, France

Restaurant L'Épicerie: 10 Place Saint-Pierre, 84000 Avignon, France (Located in the most charming square)

Restaurant Le Violette: 5 Rue Violette, 84000 Avignon, France (Upscale dinner at the Lambert Collection)

Port du Rocher is an excellent spot to admire Avignon’s fortified old city walls

Bars:

Bar de la Navigation: 36-40 Boulevard de la Ligne, 84000 Avignon, France

Casual, local haunt by the Rhone

Grand Café Barretta: 14 Place Saint-Didier, 84000 Avignon, France

Excellent outdoor terrace in the charming Place St-Didier

Le Carré du Palais: 1 Place du Palais, 84000 Avignon, France

High-end wine spot near the Palais

L’Explo: 2 Rue des Teinturiers, 84000 Avignon, France

Artisinal beer experts

Le Vin Devant Soi: 4 Rue Collège du Roure, 84000 Avignon, France

Friendly, self-service wine bar

Marion Nous: 1 Place des Carmes, 84000 Avignon, France

Excellent wine and quality bar snacks

Charming Cafes rule the streets in Sunny Avignon

Where to Stay:

Le Clos Saluces: 11 Rue Saluces, 84000 Avignon, France

Worth the splurge! Fantastic B&B located deep in the winding streets of Avignon with amazing decor, rooms, gardens, and food

Le Limas: 51 Rue Limas, 84000 Avignon, France

Historic, stylish space on a quiet-but-central location

L'Observance: 2 Rue de l'Observance, 84000 Avignon, France

Family-run B&B with a pool

Lisbon's Delicious Pastry Rivalry

The secret is out. Portugal has earned a place in the top 10 visited countries of Europe, and when you step off the plane in Lisbon, you quickly see why: Gorgeous hills, pristine beaches, intact castles, and colorful building tiles galore. Then you eat a Portuguese meal. Portuguese food and wine tend to be both wonderful and affordable, which make many travelers quite happy indeed.

One Portuguese tradition that I consider a daily must-do while visiting Lisbon, is snack on Pastéis de Nata. These creamy egg pastries are everywhere, but as far as I’m concerned, only two producers are worth your time: Pastéis de Belém and Manteigaria.

Pastéis de Nata and an espresso, at Lisbon’s Manteigaria

Enjoying Pastéis de Belém al fresco in the Jardim de Belém

First of all, it must be said that the recipe for Pastéis de Nata originates in Lisbon’s Belém neighborhood, as a centuries-old creation by Catholic monks at the beautiful Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. It’s rumored the monastery created these crispy-custard tarts seeking a way to use discarded egg yokes, using the egg whites to starch their clothing. The egg pastry creation became popular in Portugal, then spread to other places worldwide, notably in parts of Japan, India, and Brazil. The Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém cafe was first opened in 1837 by direct descendants of the original monastery producers, and has baked top-notch pastry on-site ever since.

Inside Pastéis de Belém Cafe in Belém, Portugal

Making the trip to Belém, an easy 20-minute bus ride west of Lisbon center, is a must on any Lisbon itinerary. The breathtaking Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Torre de Belém, MAAT and Museu Nacional dos Coches are all essential sites worthy of your consideration. Since you’ll already be in Belém, you have no excuse to skip the historic Pastéis de Belém cafe. Unless you’re deterred by the inevitable line of tourists. Fear not; the line moves fast and you’ll have a hot pastry in hand in no time.

The Pastéis de Belém tarts are delicious, but does the pioneer producer still bake up the best pastéis in Lisbon today?

Part of the beautiful Pastéis de Belém shop interior

In the lively Chiado neighborhood of central Lisbon, you will find a relatively new producer of pastéis de nata, Manteigaria. The cafe is small, but visiting promises to be both educational and fun. There is seldom a line, and after ordering with the cashier, you can step into the cafe and eat while watching pastry chefs making the coveted tarts up close. While Belém keeps their process in a shroud of mystery, Manteigaria kindly lets you in on the secret. And it’s this confidence and immediate access to the chef’s kitchen, not to mention a central city location that stays open until midnight, that pushes some pastry connoisseurs towards Manteigaria as the winner of the tart rivalry.

Manteigaria in Lisbon’s Chiado neighborhood

Manteigaria in Lisbon, shown sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar

Pastry Chef at work in Lisbon’s Manteigaria cafe

We are all influenced by an excellent customer service experience, but this rivalry should probably come down to the flavor experience, right? Both producers of pastéis de nata have a wonderful crispy pastry crust, but there is a subtle difference in the custard. In my opinion, Manteigaria is ever-so-slightly more flavorful. I have a hunch that this rivalry will never have a clear winner due to the high quality and distinct customer experiences at both producers, but there is plenty of room for competition in this booming tourist town. I’m pleased to let them both share the stage.

Why not do your very own taste test and let me know which pastéis de nata producer wins over your taste buds in the comments below!

PASTRY SHOP LOCATIONS

Manteigaria: Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa, Portugal

Pastéis de Belém: R. de Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisboa, Portugal

OTHER ATTRACTIONS MENTIONED

MAAT: Av. Brasília, 1300-598 Lisboa, Portugal

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos: Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal

Museu Nacional dos Coches: Av. da Índia 136, 1300-004 Lisboa, Portugal

Padrão dos Descobrimentos: Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa, Portugal

Torre de Belém: Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa, Portugal

Switzerland's Ballenberg Open-Air Museum

Ballenberg, set against the backdrop of the Swiss Alps

Do you love the rustic beauty of a Swiss chalet set in an alpine setting? There’s something special about these rural mountain farms and homes, and when I learned that Switzerland somehow brought together over 100 of these historic buildings into a 160-acre open-air museum, I knew I had to visit.

Ballenberg is a museum, a place to stroll in nature, and a working farm, too. You can travel back in time while you explore the many historic homes, barns, and cabins, all while interacting with farm animals aplenty. During my visit, I came upon flop-eared rabbits, pigs eating from a trough, chickens parading about, bleating goats, and, of course, cows.

Free-range chickens roaming around an ancient barn at Ballenberg

After paying an entry fee at the front gate, you are free to stroll at your own pace, and enter the maintained-but-not-polished interior of most buildings. I appreciated the museum’s dedication not to bring the buildings back to a new state, instead, they respect the age and history of the structures. The result is remarkable access to ancient structures; getting up-close to the original materials, windows, hardware, and in one case, layers of vintage 19th century wallpaper.

Some buildings at Ballenberg are staged, using the museum’s collection of 45,000 authentic Swiss objects, creating a snapshot of how the buildings would have been used back in the period of its construction. This includes stoves, beds, tables, dishware, clothing, farm equipment, and more.

A glimpse inside a historic home at Ballenberg

You can also explore the working barns, watch farmers in the fields, and visit with the animals. I especially enjoyed walking into a cow barn to get an up-close look at Swiss cowbells, still traditionally worn by farm animals throughout the Switzerland. The cows were also pretty friendly!

Swiss cow wearing a traditional cattle bell in one of Ballenberg’s historic barns

I spent a year abroad in Switzerland as a high school exchange student, so I was already aware of some of the traditional Swiss clothing. This did not prepare me for the diversity of regional costumes on display at Ballenberg. Just take a look at these pleated sleeves, below!

Regional Costumes on display at Ballenberg Museum

I am struck by the expansive, gorgeously maintained trails, gardens, and clear signage, as they allow self-guided wandering through the museum grounds, region-by-region, to learn all about the history of these Swiss buildings. As you stroll through the charming twists and turns of the well-designed trail system, and you should certainly leave yourself at least 3-4 hours to explore the park, you will come across surprise after surprise. I was particularly charmed by the working two-wheel watermill, and a remarkably cute chapel, seen below. Inspect closely the construction materials of each building such as original slate roofing and decorative elements like carved words, striped shutters, or leaded glass windows.

Petite hillside chapel at Ballenberg

How to Visit Ballenberg

If you are not already aware, Switzerland is connected by a fantastic public transportation systems, including trains, buses, and trams. This makes renting a car in Switzerland not necessary or even advisable. Ballenberg appears rural if you check a map, but it is easily accessible by train and bus, and this is how I visited without any issue. Simply book a rail journey to the lakeside town of Brienz. Then hop on one of the frequent yellow post buses that connect Brienz train station and Ballenberg.

Plan your visit as a day trip from anywhere in northern or central Switzerland. It is most quickly reached from Bern, Interlaken or Lucerne. Also, choose a clear-weather day as the grounds are expansive and require a good amount of walking in the elements. There are several cafes within the park, where you can quickly and easily order lunch. Benches and picnic tables are also easily found throughout the museum, for resting or snacking purposes.

Learn more on the official Ballenberg website.

Striped shutters at a Ballenberg home

Has anyone visited Switzerland’s Ballenberg Open-Air Museum? Leave your impressions in the comments section below!

A Case for Fribourg, Switzerland

Fribourg, Switzerland’s Peaceful Sarine River

Switzerland has a lot going for it: centrally located in Europe, compact in size, gorgeous, connected by an infamously reliable train network, and did I mention gorgeous?!

Known best for the massive alpine range, The Alps, covering 65% of its land, Switzerland draws mountain sport enthusiasts from around the world to its many resort towns. This impressive geologic feature has helped the country maintain a long history of tourism, and due to the multi-lingual residents (4 official languages!), it is always easy to connect with locals to ask questions. But what may be lesser-known about Switzerland, is the beauty within its cities and towns.

Of course you probably know of Zurich, Geneva, Lucerne, Basel, and Bern, which are already an impressive number of famous cities for such a small country, but the list gets longer when you think outside the box and consider towns like Lugano, Lausanne, Montrieux and Neuchatel. But for this article, let me make a case for one town that isn’t yet on many must-see lists: Fribourg.

Fribourg City as seen from Hotel Au Sauvage

Full disclosure: I spent a year abroad living in Fribourg, Switzerland, so I am partial. I was lucky to get to know Fribourg and many other Swiss towns, and for reasons unknown, Fribourg does not draw a tourist crowd. For you, this could mean an opportunity to explore a Swiss town not spoiled by crowds, where you’ll have a chance to get closer to local cultures and foods-- with zero lines!

Let me explain my top reasons for proposing you add Fribourg as a stop on your next Swiss adventure:

Central and Accessible

Fribourg is a stop on most express train lines travelling through Switzerland’s plateau, between Geneva and Zurich. This means that if you’re visiting Switzerland and board a train at either major airport, there’s already a train waiting that will bring you to Fribourg in just a few stops. Fribourg is also quite centrally located in the country, just 20 miles from the capital city of Bern.

Older House Facade in Fribourg

Preserved Medieval Town

Fribourg is easily accessible, but more importantly, it is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Switzerland. Situated on a sharp turn in the swift river Sarine, Fribourg was built at this enviable location not to create the gorgeous and compact peninsula town we see today, but because it could be easily defensible. This unique geographic position results in dramatic viewpoints that often include river, bridge, village, and cliff all in a single point of your camera.

Walkability

As you would in any new place, you will want to attempt to walk as much of Fribourg as possible. This way you can stop to admire the historic tavern signs, the hand-forged door bell pulls, decorative shutters, and leaded glass windows. Much of this is precious (and instagramable) detail is in the old lower city, near the river.

If you dare, attempt walking some of the steep wooden and stone stairways shortcuts scattered all over town; the best being Escaliers du Collège, Stalden, and Escalier du Court-Chemin.

Fribourg City Hall as seen from the Escalier du Court-Chemin

The highlights on your visit can be seen all by taking a walking tour that brings you from the train station in the upper town, down toward the old town peninsula. This path will first bring you past the adorable shopping district on the Rue de Lausanne to the imposing gothic Cathedral St-Nicolas (started in 1283). Near the cathedral, be sure to walk down the narrow Rue des Epouses to spot the historic signs overhead. Continue past the cathedral towards the tip of the peninsula. You’ll notice streets become narrow and wonderfully steep.

At the tip of the peninsula, you’ll find two bridges that are huge highlights of the town, the Pont de Berne and the Pont du Milieu, the former a wooden bridge built in 1653 and the later, a stone archway. Both provide dramatic views of both river and town. Keep an eye out for the benches alongside the river, underneath the Pont du Milieu. Don’t be jealous now, but this is where I used to eat lunch in high school!

If you’re less excited about walking all the way back up to the train station after this, you can hop on the Fribourg Funicular, that, for just a few coins, will take you (slowly) back up the walls of the old city to the upper town. Or, if you’re up for more exploration, take the Chemin de Lorette up above the city walls to the adorable Chapelle de la Lorette for fantastic views down upon the town, and to spot some local cows along the path!

Fribourg City as seen from the steps of Chapelle de la Lorette

Villars Chocolate

Everyone knows the Swiss produce quality chocolate, but Fribourg is home to one of the best chocolatiers in the country. The locally produced Villars Maitre Chocolatier has a perfect Fribourg cafe to visit to both learn more about the company, sample chocolate, and buy a few gifts for your loved ones at home.

Swiss French and German Cultures Combine

Fribourg is a canton (a Swiss state) that cuts through the border of the German and French speaking regions of the country. This results in a unique bilingual capital city. While it is a majority French-speaking, tourists can enjoy the convergence of the two languages and cultures. Even the Cathedral represents a mix of both sides, it was begun by German architects in 1283 and finished by French-speaking citizens in 1490.

I found the relationship between the French and German-speaking Fribourgeois to be fascinating, as the high school I attended in Fribourg was split in two sections by language. I recall an epic high school drama between a girl in my French-speaking class falling in love with a German-speaking boy. The cultural and linguistic differences can be such that this situation was presented to me a major issue!

More Affordable than other Swiss Towns

If you’re like most visitors to Switzerland, you’ll feel your wallet groaning as you begin to book hotels and train passes. Consider using a central town like Fribourg as a home base for a few nights instead of Bern, since you’ll find charming hotels in Fribourg at half the cost and it’s only a 20 minute train ride away from the center of Bern, and under an hour from Lausanne or Gruyères Castle!

Fribourg’s Chapelle de la Lorette

Where to Drink and Dine in Fribourg

Cafe & Pastry

Äss-Bar Fribourg: Rlle du Lycée 4, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Progressive cafe where you can buy quality pastry at a good price

Le Port de Fribourg: Planche-Inférieure 5, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Quality cafe and pastry stop by the Sarine River, with an amazing outdoor terrace

Bars

Café Populaire: Rue Saint-Michel 9, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Popular tavern with great snacks

Belvédère: Grand-Rue 36, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Historic cafe and bar with epic views

Restaurants

Café Du Gothard: Rue du Pont-Muré 16, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Authentic Swiss food, including cheese fondue

Café du Midi: Rue de Romont 25, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Traditional Swiss food near the Cathedral

Les Trentenaires: Rue de Lausanne 87, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland

Burgers & ambiance rule in this modern restaurant with a fun street terrace

Best Burgers of New York City

Whether you crave a basic hamburger or a burger crafted from prime dry-aged beef and Brooklyn Brine pickles, you will be able to find several top-quality options in New York City.

Burgers have been my dinner of choice for as long as I can remember, even growing up with a vegetarian mother (sorry, mom)! When I discovered how delicious they could be served medium rare or with the delightful texture of a lightly-toasted potato bun, my obsession grew.

There are several excellent options in NYC, so please don’t default to that burger chain because you assume they know what they’re doing; like with most things, the very best can be hard to find, but it’s worth going for. The good news is you don’t need to spend big bucks to be served an amazing burger in New York. Below, I organize the best burgers into 3 price levels, from the high end special occasion burger to the everyday burger.

THE HIGH END BURGER (>$20)

These burgers may be expensive, but they are worth every penny. And the below restaurants are phenomenal culinary establishments in their own right, no matter what you order.

Breslin, $29

The first time you bite into the Chargrilled Lamb Burger at Breslin, a tear will probably come to your eye. It’s truly a phenomenal experience. And if you’re weirded out by lamb, you are not alone. I was nervous my first time back in 2010, until that first bite, when I realized I would never be the same. This burger is the most expensive on my list, but for a meal that makes you cry, you should go for it and save money somewhere else in your day.

The Breslin’s Lamb Burger served with feta, cumin mayo, and thrice-cooked fries

Minetta Tavern, $25

The Minetta Burger is famous and on just about every New York burger list. However, knowing that I am often disappointed by such universally-acclaimed experiences, I tasted with some trepidation. I am here to confirm Minetta Tavern’s burger is worth it; worth the cost for such a quality burger, but also worth visiting the historic restaurant on the lively Macdougal street. Minetta Tavern is full of atmosphere with classic service (huge cloth napkins!) and old time portraits on the walls. I show up early and grab a spot at the bar.

Minetta Tavern: 113 Macdougal St, New York, NY 10012

Minetta Tavern in Greenwich Village

James, $23

James is a culinary treasure. Located in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, the adorable corner restaurant on a residential brownstone street, serves up one of the best burgers I’ve ever had. Although I have eaten most of the burgers on this list multiple times, I’ve visited James the most. It’s cooked perfectly every time, and the fries and pickles are delicious.

James: 605 Carlton Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11238

James Restaurant in Brooklyn

Red Hook Tavern, $22

This tavern in Red Hook, Brooklyn, is run by the BBQ expert Billy Durney. Durney serves up a fantastic burger. I really appreciate how the cheese is melted perfectly onto three sides of the dry-aged beef burger. All proportions and flavors are spot on! I wish they gave a few more fries on the plate, but that’s just me!

Red Hook Tavern: 329 Van Brunt St, Brooklyn, NY 11231

Red Hook Tavern in Brooklyn

THE MIDDLE RANGE BURGER ($15 to $20)

Buying a mid-range burger doesn’t mean it’s middle-of-the-road in flavor! The burgers below will all keep you dreaming of a return visit.

Henry Public, $16 to $19

Henry Public is an essential Brooklyn experience. You walk in and feel like you’ve stepped into an 1890’s tavern. You won’t find people on cell phones, instead you may find an eclectic mix of locals having actual conversations over a beer or classic cocktails. And they serve up just a few food items, but they have perfected each offering.

Henry Public: 329 Henry St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

Bernie’s, $17

Williamsburg can be an anxiety-producing neighborhood to eat out in. It attracts a lot of tourists (something Brooklyn was not always used to!) and there are several bars and restaurants to choose from. Bernie’s flies slightly under the radar, and feels like a hometown place, stuck in the middle of this expensive hipster a paradise. People look happy and relaxed, and the food is to die for.

Bernie’s: 332 Driggs Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222

Bernie’s in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

The Double Windsor, $15

This beer and burger pub in South Park Slope, Brooklyn serves up excellent food from a window in the back. Just order a fine craft beer from the bar, then wander to the food window and ask for a burger. This place is always busy, in an otherwise chill part of Brooklyn, for a very good reason.

The Double Windsor: 210 Prospect Park West, Brooklyn, NY 11215

THE AFFORDABLE BURGER (<$15)

I couldn’t ignore the less expensive, but still delicious options that exist around NYC. These compare in quality and price to a Shake Shack or Five Guys burger, but have the local, non-chain vibe that I adore. Hit these up for a quick, anytime meal next time you’re hungry in Manhattan.

Corner Bistro, $11 to $13

Corner Bistro occupies a delightful corner in Manhattan’s well-loved West Village. You would think, if you looked at the prices of restaurants in this area, that anything served here would cost a ton. However, this bistro keeps costs low, yet somehow always comes through with a fun dining experience. Don’t expect a fancy place, food is served on paper plates and fries cost extra. But boy, the people watching from the windows here is worth something in itself.

Corner Bistro: 331 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014

JG Melon, $12 to $13

JG Melon has been around since the 1970s. Starting on the Upper East Side, this burger-centric establishment is dripping in old-school New York charm. Watermelon paintings crowd the walls. You have to give in to the charms of green and red decor, and to the quality of their burger. They recently opened a restaurant in Greenwich Village that is more spacious than the Upper East Side spot, but I still prefer the original location, if I can manage to get a seat!

JG Melon: 1291 Third Ave, New York, NY 10021

J.G. Melon in Greenwich Village

Burger Joint, $9 to $10

This place is a hidden gem— and it’s literally hidden! You have to walk into the luxury Parker hotel, then locate the large, red plush curtains. Behind them you will locate this uber-casual small producer of fast and delicious burgers! I enjoy going here before a Broadway show or concert at the nearby Carnegie Hall.

Burger Joint: 119 W 56th St, New York, NY 10019

Ultimate Gay Bar Guide To Manhattan By Neighborhood

Since first moving to New York City in 2004, I have come to know most of New York’s 50+ gay bars, and while the scene changes and new bars come and go, most of my favorite spots have partied on, from Cher to Brittney to Gaga and back again.

Acceptance Matters Street Sign Installation for World Pride 2019 in the West Village

The gay bars on this list should appeal to various types at various ages. Personally, my priorities have changed enormously from those of my early twenties, when going out to gay bars simply meant drinking cheap beer and making eyes at beautiful strangers. My experience has grown with a better understanding of the amazingly diverse gay communities existing throughout New York City, many of which embrace the gay bars as not just a place to flirt, but a place to build a chosen family. I now enjoy and respect the important role the historic bars of the West Village, especially, play. I now go to gay bars to support places that host queer performers and events benefiting community members.

Speaking of community events, on any given day, the Thotyssey blog will tell you what is happening around the huge gay scene in NYC, including events in Queens, Brooklyn, and beyond. It also has a wonderful archive of conversations with gay bar staff and community members.

Marie’s Crisis in West Village

I organized the below list by neighborhood. I hope it’s useful to visitors or other NYC newbies, as we all tend to enjoy bar-hopping to at least a couple venues in search of that perfect vibe.

West Village:

Cubbyhole: 281 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014

Cubbyhole is a historic lesbian bar known for tight quarters, eccentric decor dangling from the ceiling, a fantastic jukebox, cheap drinks, and friendly people. This bar really does have it all, and they are very welcoming of gay men, too, in case you were wondering.

Julius’: 159 W 10th St, New York, NY 10014 (alternative to Stonewall)

Julius’ is an example of a bar that never appealed to me as a younger guy. I was under the assumption this tavern was just a dive for older gay men. Luckily, in time, I began to understand how diverse and inclusive the clientele here can be, and since it’s the oldest gay bar in NYC and on the National Register of Historic Places, it should be both preserved and celebrated!

Marie’s Crisis: 59 Grove St, New York, NY 10014

This piano bar is a treasure. Cheap drinks, free entertainment, and a musical education! Come here to see a quirky mix of locals singing obscure Broadway songs. You don’t have to sing, but just know a majority here are singing their hearts out and nothing works quite like cheap booze and group singing to bring awkward strangers together.

Pieces: 8 Christopher St, New York, NY 10014

Pieces is a fun bar that has a stage perfect for hosting musical and drag performances, bingo nights, and other such events.

Julius in Manhattan’s West Village

Chelsea:

Barracuda Bar: 275 W 22nd St, New York, NY 10011

Barracuda was a favorite of mine in my younger days. It’s a quasi-modern space, kept quite dark, with a back room ideal for intimate stage performances. Their Sunday evening drag show still stands out as one of the most exciting way to spend a late night in NYC. Oh, and I once sat next to Rufus Wainwright here and successfully ignored my impulse to tell him what a huge fan I am!

Boxers: 37 W 20th St, New York, NY 10011

Boxers is large. It has multiple pool tables that can be converted to accommodate beer pong, sports on TV, and a back garden. The bartenders wear bright red boxer shorts. It’s a fun place and gets pretty busy on Sunday afternoons.

Gym Sportsbar: 167 8th Ave, New York, NY 10011

Gym is the original gay sports bar before Boxers entered the scene. It also is located at a very central location on 8th Avenue in Chelsea with a bitty front terrace. It has a more friendly, intimate vibe than Boxers, so why not give it a try if you’re in the gayborhood?

Gay Street in the West Village

Hells Kitchen:

Barrage: 401 W 47th St, New York, NY 10036

This Hell’s Kitchen bar does what several uptown bars have attempted to do, step out of the Village dive bar vibe and become more of a stylish lounge. Go here early to start your night with a nice mixed drink before continuing on to a more lively spot after.

Boxers HK: 742 9th Ave, New York, NY 10019

This Hell’s Kitchen branch of Boxers occupies an entire building! They have a beautiful roof terrace and with a sports-theme, remains a popular spot for gay sports leagues to grab that after-game beverage.

Flaming Saddles: 793 9th Avenue between 52nd, W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019

My personal favorite in the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood, Flaming Saddles put in a lot of effort to create something unique! The bartenders are all trained dancers, who, wearing tight jeans and western boots, dance right on the bar. It’s a really fun time at any night of the week.

Hardware: 697 10th Ave, New York, NY 10036

Relatively new to the scene, Hardware took over an old hardware store and turned it into a nice venue that does a good job of balancing several gay scenes at once. This place has fun performances, dancing space, all within a decor that doesn’t try too hard.

Posh: 405 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

Posh is a classic. This is the diviest of the HK bars, and I admit I’ve had several late nights in this small bar. It’s fun to watch it turn into a messy, squished cluster of dancing in the later hours.

Therapy: 348 W 52nd St, New York, NY 10019

Therapy has a beautifully renovated, open, two-level space, that include an epic staircase in the center of the bar. The upstairs hosts several events with use of a modern stage and technology. And it never really gets old saying “we met at Therapy”.

Pride Flags in Christopher Park, Manhattan

East Village:

Nowhere: 322 E 14th St, New York, NY 10003

This bar is an ultimate den dive. It’s underground and kept dark, with a low ceiling. I enjoy the unpretentious attitudes and use of the old-school record player.

Phoenix: 447 E 13th St, New York, NY 10009

Phoenix is one of the first gay bars I ever visited and continues to reinvent itself over the years. The space is an ideal size and the jukebox has an epic selection of tunes.

Boiler Room: 86 E 4th St, New York, NY 10003

This place is a bit of a filthy mess, but the crowd can be shockingly diverse and fun! If you’re in the East Village, you should be looking for a classic gay dive like the Boiler Room!

Upper East Side:

The Toolbox: 1742 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10128

The Toolbox is such an interesting outlier in the gay bar scene, located way up in the northeastern corner of the Upper East Side. It’s in an area known to attract frat-boy-turned-Wall-Street-intern types and prep school families, making it a fascinating spot for a long-time gay bar dive to thrive. Over the years, Toolbox maintains a unique, local, relaxed vibe all night. Plus, last time I was here, I was thrilled to spot New York Times’ Frank Bruni enjoying a drink with friends!

Finding Pride in the NYC Subway