Pubs and Whisky Bars of Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh is well-known today as a destination for theater, booze, and unfortunate weather. And a lot more, certainly, but that’s what first came to my mind as I prepared to visit Scotland in November. I was already at peace with the fact it would be wet and chilly, but I was sure as hell going to arrive with a good list of places to seek refuge from the weather.

J, striding by near Edinburgh’s Palace of Holyroodhouse

Drinking in Scotland was obviously on my mind, so when I started combing the internet and inquiring from European friends about where to go in Edinburgh, I steered the search towards good pubs. It turns out Edinburgh has a TON of pubs and whisky bars, so the research could get VERY granular. Did it have a fireplace? How historic was the interior? Were there Victorian cherubs painted on the mirrors? Do they sell fish and chips with special vinegar sauce?

View of Salisbury Crags in Edinburgh

Once you get to Scotland, you might be lucky and find yourself with a sunny morning to hike around Holyrood Park and up to the top of Arthur’s Seat. The views throughout this park are exceptional and the greens electric. If you visit the park, I insist you stop by the oldest pub in all of Scotland, The Sheep’s Heid Inn, established in the same spot in 1360. There you will find a traditional pub lunch, a strong pint or dram, and maybe even some sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

View of Edinburgh from Holyrood Park, hiking to Arthur’s Seat

The Sheep Heid Inn in Doddington, near the Holyrood Park, may be Scotland’s oldest surviving pub

The Milkman cafe, Edinburgh

By the time I visited Edinburgh, I had collected such an amazing list of bars, I would need to visit several times to get through them all. I did my best, but some I’ve left a few for my next trip. And it somehow keeps growing. Maybe you can try and hit them all in your visit.

Historic Bennet’s Bar in Edinburgh

I’m more of a historic pub guy than an upscale cocktail or liquor-only spot, but I’ve included both on the list below. I’ve also separated out whisky destinations for those wanting to head right to the city’s whisky experts!

PUBS & COCKTAIL LOUNGES:

Bennet’s Bar: 8 Leven St, Edinburgh EH3 9LG, UK

Beautiful old Victorian pub with endless detail to admire. Whisky or local ale.

Bramble Bar & Lounge: 16A Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JE, UK

Below ground craft cocktail lounge that looks like a dry cleaner from street!

Canny Mans: 237 Morningside Rd, Edinburgh EH10 4QU, UK

Quirky pub serving up local beer and Danish open-faced sandwiches. Old instruments hang from ceiling.

Kay’s Bar: 39 Jamaica St, Edinburgh EH3 6HF, UK

There is a real fire in the front, antique wooden casks, and a small back section complete with a library and board games.

Nauticus: 142 Duke St, Edinburgh EH6 8HR, UK

Wonderful pub in Leith, full of character, quality drink, and local meat & cheese charcuterie.

Panda and Sons: 79 Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 4NF, UK

Speakeasy-style cocktail bar. Look for “barbershop” window, then take stairs to basement, enter through bookshelf at bottom

Teuchters Landing: 1C Dock Pl, Edinburgh EH6 6LU, UK

Pub on the water in Leith. Go for drinks and fresh seafood snacks.

The Bon Vivant: 55 Thistle St, Edinburgh EH2 1DY, UK

Spiffy cocktail and wine bar, with a quality restaurant for small plates.

The Hanging Bat: 133 Lothian Rd, Edinburgh EH3 9AB, UK

Perfect beer-lover’s destination, with bat-shaped tap handles.

The Last Word Saloon: 44 St Stephen St, Edinburgh EH3 5AL, UK

Creative cocktails in a beautiful lounge. Somewhat hidden; find Kenji Sushi and look down.

The Sheep Heid Inn: 43-45 The Causeway, Edinburgh EH15 3QA, UK

Famous gastropub on the far side of Holyrood Park. Top atmosphere and drenched in history; pub on this same spot since 1360!

Scotland’s National Animal, the Unicorn

WHISKY SPECIALISTS:

Kaleidoscope Bar at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society: 28 Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JX, UK

Excellent choice if you wish to sit and sample local whisky with consultation from an expert bartender in an exclusive environment.

The Bow Bar: 80 W Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2HH, UK

This appears to be just an average pub from the outside, but believe me, this is a spot that serves over 300 whiskies and has a great casual, historic feel for tasting a dram or two.

Usquabae Whisky Bar: 2-4 Hope St, Edinburgh EH2 4DB, UK

High-end basement tavern that allows you to reserve whisky tasting appointments in advance.

Whiski Rooms: 4-7 N Bank St, Edinburgh EH1 2LP, UK

Touristy stop, but high in quality and selection. Try a whisky flights along with some typical Scottish far or purchase bottles from the shop next door

This Todd knows a good street name when he sees it

Where To Eat And Drink in Barcelona

Barcelona holds a secure place in the list of most popular global destinations. I mean, of course it does, being a warm coastal city in Spain that maintains an incredible artistic and architectural history. However, I started picking up on something that made me wary to visit: many friends spent time in Barcelona during college, and didn’t seem to return. Then I watched L'Auberge Espagnole, starring Audrey Tautou of Amélie fame. I was left wondering if Barcelona was going to be one giant youth hostel, stuffed to the gills with European hen parties and American college students docked from their Semester at Sea cruises.

Cathedral of Barcelona

OK OK, those judgments might be a little harsh and unfair. And I want you to know I’m not a complete fuddy-duddy; I’m still in my 30s and enjoy dive bars and occasional late nights out on the town, after all! But I have always liked big cities that don’t seem to swing one way or another when it comes to certain age groups. In any case, I was nervous about my “fit” for Barcelona before I arrived.

Park Güell in Barcelona

Detail of Park Güell’s outdoor tilework

Lucky for both me and you, Barcelona has it all. I was immediately won over as I found it absolutely gorgeous, easy to navigate, delicious, and surprisingly, a good host to multiple ages and scenes.

Relieved to see an older citizen strolling through the Gothic District

When searching for a hotel, I aimed to find a central, lively neighborhood without landing me the thick of a tourist-only zone. I narrowed in on the Eixample and Gràcia areas, situated in walking distance from the old Gothic Quarter. These neighborhoods were vibrant day and night, consisting of both locals and visitors. In other words, I look to sleep in an area any local would want to both live and dine in.

Ancient corner detail a block from the Barcelona Cathedral

Anyway, you’re here to find out where to eat and drink in Barcelona, right?

Start by grabbing coffee! I enjoy conducting painstaking research on where to get a great specialty coffee before arriving in a new place. I blame this coffee snobbery (aka, bad coffee anxiety) on both being a choosy New Yorker paired with one year spent in San Francisco where there’s a fancy coffee counter at every turn. In any case, it’s hard for me to drink the cheap stuff, so I look out for a third-wave coffee shop to start my day on the right foot.

Satan’s Coffee Corner in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter

COFFEE:

Espai Joliu: Carrer de Badajoz, 95, 08005 Barcelona, Spain (Plants & Coffee)

Granja M. Viader: Carrer d'en Xuclà, 4, 08001 Barcelona, Spain (classic cafe serving sandwiches, churros, chocolate, and other sweet snacks)

Nomad Coffee Lab & Shop: Passatge Sert, 12, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Onna Cafe: Carrer de Santa Teresa, 1, 08012 Barcelona, Spain

️Satan’s Coffee Corner: Carrer de l'Arc de Sant Ramon del Call, 11, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

SKYE Coffee Co.: Carrer de Pamplona, 88, 08018 Barcelona, Spain

CHURROS:

Churrería Laietana: Via Laietana, 46, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Xurreria: Carrer dels Banys Nous, 8, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Xurreria Trebol: Carrer de Còrsega, 341, 08037 Barcelona, Spain

Xurreria Trebol in Gràcia, Barcelona

Seldom do I head to a nice restaurant or book a table for lunch. I prefer to make lunch a quick affair, which allows me to spend the middle of my day exploring museums and parks, instead of just sitting for a long lunch and potentially destroying my appetite for an amazing dinner later!

Spain is made for people like me. Tapas bars, scattered throughout the country, allow one to stop in and quickly grab a bite at the bar. No need for elaborate meal service, instead, enjoy varied small plates and a small glass of house vermouth.

LUNCH:

Bar But: Carrer de Bonavista, 8, 08012 Barcelona, Spain

Modern, hip spot for tapas

Xarcuteria La Pineda: Carrer del Pi, 16, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Super traditional Spanish tapas

La Fábrica: Carrer del Call, 19, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Yummy Argentinian empanadas

Young boy running through Barcelona’s El Raval area

Strolling through Barcelona Streets

Dinner in Spain is typically served later than in the United States. Unless you want to eat in an empty room when the restaurant opens at 6 or 7, you should probably plan to eat later, around 8:30 or 9. Dine as the locals do! As with most popular towns, you’re visiting on a weekend or in a busy time of year, always try and get a reservation in advance. Quimet & Quimet is the one spot I recommend below that you actually must show up early for (6PM SHARP) if you want a chance to get inside.

RESTAURANTS:

Agut: Carrer d'en Gignàs, 16, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Traditional Catalonian restaurant with exceptional decor

Bar Bitácora: Carrer de Balboa, 1, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Casual tapas, ceviche near the beach

Cafè de L'Acadèmia: Carrer dels Lledó, 1, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

High quality, popular, and casual dinner spot

Cal Pep: Plaça de les Olles, 8, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Old-school tapas destination

La Pepita: Carrer de Còrsega, 343, 08037 Barcelona, Spain

Fun place for quality Catalonian tapas

Quimet & Quimet: Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25, 08004 Barcelona, Spain

Closed Saturday and Sunday. Small, standing-only spot serving tapas and Spanish wine. Arrive just before opening at 6PM and get in line!!! Worth the hassle.

Tantarantana: Carrer d'en Tantarantana, 24, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Quimet & Quimet Tapas Bar in Barcelona. Always a scene and totally worth it.

Finally, you had some dinner and are looking for a place for those evening drinks. I have included on my list below spots for cocktails, wine, or beer. ¡Salud!

BARS:

Boadas Cocteleria: Carrer dels Tallers, 1, 08001 Barcelona, Spain

Classic cocktail bar on La Rambla since 1933

El Ciclista: Carrer de Mozart, 18, 08012 Barcelona, Spain

Hip, bike-themed bar for cocktails and local beer

Bar Betty Ford: Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 56, 08001 Barcelona, Spain

Popular, gay-friendly, American-style bar with decent bar food

BrewDog Barcelona: Carrer de Casanova, 69, 08011 Barcelona, Spain

Scottish craft beer destination

La Federica: Carrer de Salvà, 3, 08004 Barcelona, Spain

Gay-friendly bar with colorful retro design

Botanic Bar Cafe: Carrer de Muntaner, 64, 08011 Barcelona, Spain

Gay bar with lush outdoor courtyard

Zim: Carrer de la Dagueria, 20, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Wonderfully small, charming wine bar in the heart of the Gothic Quarter

La Candela: Plaça de Sant Pere, 12, 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Everyday bar with a fortunate location on the historic Plaça de Sant Pere. Sit outside and people watch!

Always look up

One Day in Turin, Italy

Turin is the perfect under-the-radar stop if you are travelling through Northern Italy. In fact, I did just that earlier this year, starting my travels in Milan and ending in Paris.

I first got excited about Turin following the life of the Mimi Thorisson on Instagram, a chef who’s beautiful cookbooks make me long to give up my hectic life in NYC and live in Europe full-time. Mimi and family are camping out in Turin for a few years as she prepares a new book on Italian cooking, while her photographer husband documents their not-so-common lifestyle. I went to Turin searching for a unique Italian experience that might live up to the idyllic Italian life the Thorissons portray online.

View of Turin from My Airbnb Apartment

Turin is a quick trip from Milan, as well as a stop along the TGV train line that runs express between Milan and Paris. Bonus: Turin is affordable and not overrun with American tourists! It also offers a lot of bang for your buck: famous historic artifacts (The Shroud), world-class museums, Fiat automobiles, and a thriving old-school cafe culture.

When you arrive at Turin’s modern, central train station, you can probably just walk to your hotel or Airbnb apartment. I booked a gigantic Airbnb flat in central Turin (approx. $90/night) and I was able to walk from the train station to the flat in Centro in just 15 minutes (see the epic view above). If you don’t use a travel backpack like I do, there are several street trains and taxis that can take you from the station into town in just a few minutes. I took public transportation just once, during a rainstorm, and the metro cards can be found in most tobacco shops and convenience stores.

Adorable Via Giuseppe Barbaroux in the Centro neighborhood

MORNING:

Your day in Turin must start out with an espresso, cappuccino, or other such caffeinated Italian classic. I carefully chose a breakfast spot across the Dora Riparia river that was simple and non-touristy: Torre Cremeria Bar. Known for their authentic Sicilian breakfast specialty of granita and brioche, I was in heaven. If you only have one day in Turin and want to stick to a more classic option, however touristy, try the historic Caffè Mulassano or Café Al Bicerin to sample the local “Bicerin” style beverage of layered chocolate, coffee, and creme. This will be a certain method to wake you up and introduce you to the old-world charms respectfully preserved in Turin.

Caffè Mulassano near Turin’s Piazza Castello

After breakfast, you should proceed to walk the length of the city. I recommend first visiting the famous open air markets at the northwestern end of town at Porta Palazzo then proceed south to the Piazza Castello, down the Via Po under its epic sidewalk arcades, to the grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This walk will orient you, give you a taste of some major town squares, and provide you with the scale of town.

View of Turin’s Gran Madre Di Dio Church and the Po River

MID-DAY:

If you find yourself on the the edge of the Po, I recommend you descend to the river’s edge and sit for a few minutes; you’ll pick up on a romantic Parisian Seine vibe as you watch the youth lounging, while sparrows dart playfully about. You will also be reminded of Turin’s northern location in the Piedmont, the foot of the Alps, thanks to distant mountain peaks and surrounding verdant nature.

Cross the river Po and approach the Gran Madre Di Dio Church. On the left side of the church steps you’ll notice a figure holding out a large chalice. You’ve just discovered the Holy Grail! Well, OK, not exactly, but some say it is buried someplace between this statue and the Shroud of Turin in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Stop into the Gran Madre for a quick look around. I was lucky enough to catch a moody church organ rehearsal.

View of Turin’s main Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Mole Antonelliana tower from the steps of the Gran Madre Di Dio Church

Alongside the Gran Madre Di Dio, there’s an excellent choice for lunch, at Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina. Alternatively, you could cross the Po and return to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto to eat at one of the many street cafes surrounding the piazza.

After lunch, you will have to make some very tough decisions! There are several excellent museums to choose from in Turin, but I would prioritize the Museo Egizio, which hosts the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. Other options are Galleria Sabauda for classic European paintings, Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli for modern art, the Villa della Regina royal palace surrounded by gardens and fountains, or the Royal Armoury of Turin for a truly impressive collection of weapons.

A Copy of The Shroud of Turin on Display at Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata

You won’t be able to see the original Shroud of Turin, housed in Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, but you can easily view a copy. I enjoyed the visit to the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata and the shrine they created to celebrate the shroud (pictured above). Another site to see as you wonder the streets of Turin is the picturesque Piazza San Carlo surrounded by baroque 17th Century building and statues, not to mention upscale shopping and La Bottega Guido Gobino, known for selling top-quality chocolate treats.

Me Looking Positively gigantic next to a Fiat in Turin

EVENING:

After a long day of exploration and cultural activity, you will want to find an excellent place to dine and unwind. I had a delicious informal, affordable seafood dinner at Pescheria Gallina and the next night, a superb formal Italian meal at Al Gatto Nero. The former will require you show up at opening time to avoid a line, the latter requires an advance reservation.

J, enjoying some fried seafood at Torino’s Pescheria Gallina

Al Gatto Nero and their fantastic dishware

AFTER DINNER:

If you still have some energy post-meal, I recommend a drink at any piazza cafe terrace in town, or at least a gelato from the wonderful Alberto Marchetti. The evening cafe and bar scene around Turin seemed quite youthful and of mediocre quality, so don’t expect something like you would find in big-city Milan. I would recommend if you’re looking for an evening drink, to simply show up to a terrace where locals appear to be enjoying themselves and pick the one with the best atmosphere for you. Service may be slow but someone will come help you eventually. It’s a great chance to try and relax into a slower way of life.

Turin’s covered sidewalk arcades are full of strolling families and youthful activity

Coffee/Snacks:

Alberto Marchetti: Via Po, 35, 10124 Torino TO, Italy (multiple locations)

Café Al Bicerin: Piazza della Consolata, 5, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Caffè Mulassano: Piazza Castello, 15, 10124 Torino TO, Italy

Mara dei Boschi: Via Claudio Luigi Berthollet, 30, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Torre Cremeria Bar: Corso Regio Parco, 28, 10153 Torino TO, Italy (granita!!)

Museums:

Galleria Sabauda: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Museo Egizio: Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli: Via Nizza 230, 103, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Royal Armoury of Turin: Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Shopping:

La Bottega, Guido Gobino: Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1, 10123 Torino TO, Italy (chocolate!)

Market of Porta Palazzo: Piazza della Repubblica, 10152 Torino TO, Italy (closed Sunday)

Activities/Sites:

Borgo Medievale de Torino: Viale Virgilio, 107, 10126 Torino TO, Italy

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista: Piazza San Giovanni, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio: (Holy Grail!) Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Castello: Piazza Castello, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza San Carlo: Piazza S. Carlo, 161, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Piazza Vittorio Veneto: Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 10124 Torino, TO, Italy

Santuario della Consolata: Piazza della Consolata, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Villa della Regina: Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Food:

Al Gatto Nero: Corso Filippo Turati, 14, 10128 Torino TO, Italy

Fra Diavolo Pizza & Cucina: Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4/A, 10131 Torino TO, Italy

Osteria Antiche Sere: Via Cenischia, 9, 10139 Torino TO, Italy

Pescheria Gallina: Piazza della Repubblica, 14b, 10152 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Consorzio: Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

Ristorante Solferino: Piazza Solferino, 3, 10121 Torino TO, Italy

Scannabue Caffè: Largo Saluzzo, 25/h, 10125 Torino TO, Italy

Hiking To Calanque d’En Vau In Southern France

You’ve probably seen a photo of Calanque d’En Vau without knowing it’s on the coastline of mainland France, a few short miles from the major city of Marseille. The jewel-tone translucence of the water set against light limestone cliffs can feel just like a Greek Island scene from Mamma Mia!

There are 9 Calanques, or coastal inlets, that stretch along the mountainous coast between Marseille and La Ciotat, and when I decided to visit in June, 2019, I found a lot of varying information about how to best access them and precisely which of the Calanques to visit.

My logistical questions were as follows:

1. Are the Calanques open in the summer?

2. Should I visit the Calanques by foot or by boat?

3. Which Calanque should I choose?

Looking over Port-Miou calanque toward Cassis Bay

Are the Calanques open in summer?

I visited all sorts of official websites and not-so-official forums and got different stories, but from what I understand, the Calanques were given National Park status in 2012 and the dry, mountainous trails covering the land around them also suffered from fires in the recent years, all resulting in attempts to regulate access at risky times of the year. Also, some of the parking lots in the woods north of Cassis (and closer to d’En Vau) may or may not be closed due to various local complaints of overcrowding and/or car theft.

The truth appears to be some of the driving roads are closed from June to November near the Morgiou and Sormiou Calanques (those closest to Marseille). Fortunately, hiking trails to all Calanques remain open through the summer, but are subject to local closure depending on extreme daily conditions or limits set on total daily visitors. Check this website before your visit and show up early to be safe.

I visited Cassis, as many tourists do, and planned to access the Calanques from there. It was early June, and the weather was already an intensely sunny 80°F / 26°C. I had a rental car and drove down early in the morning from Aix-en-Provence, arriving in Cassis to park around 9 AM. I do believe an early arrival was key to both finding a good parking space and surviving the first part of the hike, before midday temperatures peaked.

Sailboats in the Cassis Bay

I chose a parking garage called “Mimosas” at 10 Avenue Augustin Isnard after researching the options around Cassis. It was modern, clean, and felt completely safe. I knew I wanted to spend some time in Cassis’ charming port after the hike, so I chose a lot that would keep me close to town and also allow me to easily swing by the Spar supermarket for water and snacks before the hike.

A note on hydration: I attended Colorado College and while living in Southern Colorado, I spent years hiking the arid, sunny trails of the American southwest. This experience made me insistent on staying properly hydrated, so I insisted my partner and myself each take two 16oz. water bottles on this hike. All I can say is this felt like it was the bare minimum once we began hiking. We were definitely rationing our water by the return trip.

Avenue Augustin Isnard in downtown cassis

Also, you can use the directions feature in Google Maps from your mobile device, set to “walking” mode and it will lead you on the proper hike to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau. I found it really helpful to have the Google Maps trail map on hand to provide peace of mind. Otherwise, it’s hard to go wrong as the trail is rather busy and you simply need to follow the trail signage of red & white stripes (see photo below).

Stay aware of trail markers. The trail to d’En Vau is shared with that of Port Pin

Should I Visit the Calanques by Foot or by Boat?:

You will have options to visit the Calanques by tour boat, kayak, or hiking trail from the town of Cassis. With previous hiking experience and a solid pair of sneakers, I knew I wanted the experience of arriving to the secluded beach by foot. (Plus, I had already taken a boat tour of the Calanques in 2003 and was anxious to get closer to the gorgeous cliffs and coastline).

I was surprised to see so many kayaks in the Calanques. If I were to go back for a third visit, I would choose to rent a kayak and see the coastline from yet another perspective. It seems like a nice compromise between a larger boat tour, and tramping into the Calanques by foot.

Several kayaks docked within the calanque at d’En Vau

Which Calanque To Choose?

After researching online articles and photos, then finally asking our B&B hosts in Provence, we confidently decided to visit d’En Vau. This is one of the hardest Calanques to access by foot, surrounded by some of the more extreme and tall cliff sides, all adding to my desire to visit. In addition, by visiting d’En Vau, you get to experience the town of Cassis and also pass by two other smaller Calanques on the trail, Port-Miou and Port Pin.

Last Leg before the trail opens at the d’En Vau beach

I already mentioned carrying plenty of water, but if you choose to hike into the Calanques, know it is a somewhat challenging hike that takes just under 2 hours each way. It will take you 30 minutes to reach the Port-Miou trail entrance from the center of Cassis, then another 35 minutes to reach Port Pin beach, and finally, another 45 minutes to reach d’En Vau. The most challenging section of this hike is the stretch between Port Pin and d’En Vau as it involves both an ascent and decent, on a trail containing many loose and slippery stones. Be careful on the decent, as there are a couple sections of narrow “bouldering” where you may have to lift yourself down a few spots, and on the busy Saturday I hiked, a couple sections were stressful due to the slow queue of people scrambling down at varying speeds.

Bright midday sun beating down upon the limestone cliffs near the beach at d’En Vau

But don’t be discouraged if you want to experience the hike for yourself! On the trail, I spotted a very pregnant solo hiker, teenagers carrying coolers, and even families with small children. You can probably do it, too. It’s worth it in the end when you’re resting on that perfect pebble beach.

Beach of the Calanque D’en Vau on a busy Saturday

After dedicating a large chunk of your day to this hike and you’re safely back in the town of Cassis, take a well-deserved rest at one of the touristy port-side cafes for a late lunch or some cold beverages! It’s impossible not to enjoy watching the colorful, bobbing sailboats in the harbor or get close to the water’s edge to spot sea creatures swimming by just below the surface.

Boats in the Bay of Cassis

Fast, Affordable Food Before a Broadway Show

One can live for years in New York struggling with this simple food dilemma: where to eat before that 7PM Broadway show in Midtown. Now, this issue for me was exacerbated by the fact I am an avid Broadway Lottery player, meaning if I win lottery tickets on any given day, I have very little time to convince my partner to attend a show that same night, pay for the discounted tickets, and then run to the show immediately after work. And as many New Yorkers will tell you, they completely avoid midtown Manhattan, making them totally unaware of tasty food options there.

DANGER ZONE: Hungry, Frustrated People Searching for Food in Midtown Manhattan

Over the last couple years, I’ve started planning ahead and asked around about food options in Midtown West / Hell’s Kitchen. There are a few excellent restaurants, but they are either pricey or slow, often both. Luckily, I’ve found several food options in Midtown that now I can look forward to stopping at for a speedy, affordable and delicious bite before the show.

Don’t Wander The Big Apple Aimlessly, Take My Advice Below

Ramen or Thai:

Totto Ramen: 366 W 52nd St, New York, NY 10019 or 464 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

A personal favorite! Ramen is prepared quickly and this spot is always top quality.

Wondee Siam: 792 9th Ave, New York, NY 10019

Thai is a specialty on Hell’s Kitchen’s 9th Avenue. This spot is tiny, but the service and meals are always great.

Talad Wat: 714 9th Ave, New York, NY 10019

Communal tables and a country style make this a unique and delicious Thai experience.

Totto Ramen on West 52nd Street, Midtown Manhattan

Burger and Shake:

Shake Shack: 691 8th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This burger chain originates in NYC, but has spread all over the country. It’s still a great quick meal and the lines move fast.

5 Napkin Burger: 630 9th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This is another NYC burger chain serving up high quality burgers, salads, and bar food.

Shake Shack in Midtown Manhattan

Mexican:

Los Tacos No.1: 229 W 43rd St, New York, NY 10036

This popular cult favorite serves excellent street style tacos and feels like you’re stepping into a California fast-food joint. There are skinny tables for standing and quick taco consumption.

Los Tacos in Midtown Manhattan

Pizza:

Patzeria Perfect Pizza: 231 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036 (for slices/ garlic knots),

There are several cheap take-away pizza slice options in NYC, but this is one of the best. They also offer many toppings.

Food Court:

City Kitchen: 700 8th Ave, New York, NY 10036

This artisanal food court won me over with a doughnut stand. Having options is nice for a family or larger group that may not be able to decide on one restaurant.

Patzeria Pizza in Midtown Manhattan

Caffeine or Pastry:

St Kilda Coffee: 328 W 44th St, New York, NY

If I’m dragging before a show, I want a quick espresso or coffee. St Kilda is a favorite because it has a unique location underneath 44th Street (around the corner from Shake Shack), and if you’re lucky you’ll spot some Broadway stars also seeking a shot of energy.

Cafe Grumpy: 200 W 39th St, New York, NY 10018

My classic go-to coffee shop in NYC has a Times Square location.

St Kilda Coffee in Midtown Manhattan

Bars:

Jimmy’s Corner: 140 W 44th St, New York, NY 10036

A narrow and packed classic NYC dive bar. You’ll find all ages and types here, and you’ll be squeezing by everyone, so this is not for the claustrophobic.

Flaming Saddles: 793 9th Avenue (between W 52nd/ W 53rd St), New York, NY 10019

This is an energetic gay bar, popular with all genders and orientations. This is a perfect spot to grab a quick beer and get in the mood for a musical. The bartenders here all wear cowboy boots and dance on the bar à la Coyote Ugly.

Pocket Bar: 455 W 48th St, New York, NY 10036

Super small bar only locals know about with a wonderful owner/bartender. You’ll feel welcome the instant you enter, and they give out free popcorn. Also consider their sister bar Back Pocket one block north.

Enjoy the show!

One Day In Burlington, Vermont

Vermont is the U.S. state I love most. I grew up there, so I’m 100% biased, but I do think it’s special. Something about how the light hits the friendly green mountains, its obsession with maple products, or the enchanting sound of loons calling out on the not-overly-developed lakes. It strikes an ideal balance of rural beauty and also progressive politics.

Burlington’s famous Church Street Marketplace

For a state where 61% of the residents are defined as living in “rural areas” (#2 most rural in the USA!), Vermont surprisingly has a long history of its citizens embracing liberal ideals and political movements. Think Bernie Sanders, same-sex civil unions, and Ben & Jerry’s. I call it changing with the times and caring for one another.

Burlington, the largest city, represents Vermont well with the popular University of Vermont up on the hilltop and walkable streets slanting down toward a grand, spiffed-up urban waterfront. Not to mention one of the best views of the Adirondack mountain range on earth. Burlington also has a phenomenal beer and cider scene, comedy, music, and arts galore. If you haven’t been to Vermont, or aren’t the type to embrace rural adventure, Burlington is the perfect place to get your feet wet in Vermont culture.

MORNING:

A perfect Burlington day begins with a hardy breakfast at Penny Cluse Cafe. Go early to avoid the crowds and experience serious quality eats in the form of pancakes, eggs, breakfast burritos, and coffee. Next, walk the entire of the Church Street Marketplace. This pedestrian street stretches through the center of town, and has created a sense of vibrant activity downtown, with many bars and restaurants spilling out onto the bricked street.

LATE MORNING:

I recommend that if you have just one day in Burlington and want to experience a touch of the history and rural beauty of the state, head just one town south to Shelburne, Vermont. Shelburne is home to many attractions like Shelburne Farms, Shelburne Museum, and Vermont Teddy Bear Company. Depending on your mood or company, choose one spot and spend at least a couple hours exploring. The Shelburne Museum hosts a collection of relocated historic Vermont buildings, vintage carriages, trains, artwork, and even a gigantic ship on it’s sprawling grounds. The Shelburne Farms is a huge estate (previously a vacation home to the Vanderbilt / Webb family) and currently provides wagon rides, cheese tasting, and other cultural events throughout the year. Finally, Vermont Teddy Bear is the producer of some of the highest quality hand-crafted teddy bears in the USA.

Shelburne Museum Round Barn

LUNCH:

Quality food is scattered all over downtown Burlington, but my favorite lunches are casual and just outside of town. Grab a Neapolitan-style pizza at Folino's in Shelburne, which miraculously shares a building with the Fiddlehead Brewery; two delish Vermont gems in one place! Alternatively, head to the or Al's French Frys in South Burlington for burgers, fries, and milkshakes; a Vermont classic since 1946.

AFTERNOON:

Head back into downtown Burlington and explore more nooks and crannies of Church Street Marketplace and the quirky side streets. Shop some local crafts and pottery at the Frog Hollow Crafts Gallery or the Bennington Potters North store, selling iconic Vermont pottery since 1793!

If you’re into Antiques, there’s a large center a short walk south from downtown called Barge Canal Market. Across the street from Barge, there’s one of the best wine shops in New England, Dedalus. If you have room before dinner and don’t get caught up in a wine tasting, I recommend indulging in a soft serve ice cream, called a “creemee” in Vermont. The best creemee is, of course, the maple variety and can be found right on the Burlington waterfront at either Burlington Bay Cafe or Ice Cream Bob’s.

Ice Cream Bob’s in Vermont takes maple creemees (aka: soft serve ice cream) very seriously

EVENING:

Before dinner, you will still be full from the maple creemee and all the amazing food from the day, so work it off by taking a stroll along the waterfront. Burlington waterfront is gorgeous and includes miles of trails alongside Lake Champlain, public beaches, a skating park, a science museum, a boardwalk with swings, and other surprises.

Conveniently, one of my favorite breweries is also located on the waterfront: Foam. This place can be busy later in the evening with live performances, so if you want a more low-key experience tasting fantastic local beer, then show up before dinner and sample one or two specialty beers on either their front or back terraces. They also serve plates of fine cheeses and charcuterie.

Finally, dinner on the town. You’ll want to make reservations well in advance at Hen of the Wood, one of the best restaurants in the entire state. It’s a short walk from the Burlington Waterfront and is decidedly upscale. Typically, when I go to Vermont, I like to indulge in casual breweries, diners, and dives. However, Hen of the Wood is worth splurging for. Second runner up for best dinner in Burlington goes to an old favorite, American Flatbread for pizza. There’s no reservation here, but you can put your name in and head straight to the bar in the entryway for some local beer while you wait.

Canoes in the sun at the Burlington Waterfront Recreational area

Places Mentioned In This Article:

Penny Cluse Cafe: 169 Cherry St, Burlington, VT 05401

Shelburne Farms: 1611 Harbor Rd, Shelburne, VT 05482

Shelburne Museum: 6000 Shelburne Rd, Shelburne, VT 05482

Vermont Teddy Bear Company: 6655 Shelburne Rd, Shelburne, VT 05482

Folino’s Wood Fired Pizza: 6305 Shelburne Rd, Shelburne, VT 05482

Fiddlehead Brewing Company: 6305 Shelburne Rd, Shelburne, VT 05482

Al’s French Frys: 1251 Williston Rd, South Burlington, VT 05403

Frog Hollow: 85 Church St, Burlington, VT 05401

Bennington Pottery North, Inc.: 127 College St, Burlington, VT 05401

Barge Canal Market: 377 Pine St, Burlington, VT 05401

Dedalus Wine Shop, Market & Wine Bar: 388 Pine St, Burlington, VT 05401

Burlington Bay Market & Cafe: 125 Battery St, Burlington, VT 05401

Ice Cream Bob's: 1 College St, Burlington, VT 05401

Hen Of The Wood - Burlington: 55 Cherry St, Burlington, VT 05401

American Flatbread Burlington Hearth: 115 St Paul St, Burlington, VT 05401

Honorable Mentions To Consider:

Anjou & The Little Pear Home: 53 Main St, Burlington, VT 05401

August First Cafe: 149 S Champlain St, Burlington, VT 05401

Citizen Cider: 316 Pine St #114, Burlington, VT 05401

Onyx Tonics Specialty Coffee: 126 College St, Burlington, VT 05401

Shy Guy Gelato: 457 St Paul St, Burlington, VT 05401

Simon Pearce: 157 Bank St, Burlington, VT 05401

Tight Squeeze Coffee Shop: 125 College St, Burlington, VT 05401

Adirondack hunting camp at Shelburne Museum

Coffee Shops Perfect for Laptop Work and Study in New York City

Coffee is a passion of mine. I go out of my way to get a good cup-o-joe in a stylish space, but I promise you, it’s one of very few addictions! I really try not to be annoying about it, but it’s a side-effect of having a little of everything in NYC.

I’m an official coffee snob, but one thing NYC is sorely missing is space to both drink quality coffee and work/read/write. This is where this article will help you!

Think Coffee on 8th Avenue, Manhattan

As you probably know, the best coffee quality isn’t always in the shop that has charming decor, free wifi, or abundant seating. This article is dedicated to those unique coffee shops that both serve a great cup of coffee while also offering working space with wifi access. I have found they reliably keep this coffee snob both happy and productive at the same time.

Think Coffee’s back room on 8th Avenue, Manhattan

MANHATTAN:

Think Coffee (West Village): 73 8th Ave, New York, NY 10014

Think Coffee (Tribeca): 350 Broadway, New York, NY 10013

Think Coffee (NoHo/NYU) : 248 Mercer St, New York, NY 10012

Think Coffee has several outposts across Manhattan, but not all are good places to work. The three above have the best space, bathrooms, and free wifi connection. They also serve quality pastry and sandwiches. My personal favorite is the West Village (8th Avenue) location. Note that during the academic year, the NoHo location is overrun with NYU students, but also resembles that coffee shop from Friends.

Everyman Espresso (East Village): 136 E 13th St, New York, NY 10003

One of the best cups of coffee in the city is ALSO a solid place to work. Not the largest of cafe spaces, it has at least 10 spots to sit. Additionally, it’s also interesting to spend time here, as it’s located in the lobby of an Off-Broadway theater.

9th Street Espresso (Alphabet City): 700 E 9th St, New York, NY 10009

9th Street Espresso, now seen at Chelsea Market and other spots, started off at this quiet location on 9th Street and Avenue C. There are about 10 tables, strong wifi, and a really great cup of coffee or espresso. And since it’s all the way over in Alphabet City, I’ve always been able to quickly snag a table.

Joe Coffee (Columbia University): 550 W 120th St, New York, NY 10027

Most of the Joe Coffee locations in NYC are quite small and don’t have wifi, but the Columbia University location, which is totally accessible to the public, not only has wifi, it’s large and surrounded by gigantic floor-to-ceiling windows. Who doesn’t like to setup a work station alongside Ivy League students, under the picturesque backdrop of University towers, in hopes some of the epic work ethic rubs off?

VBar & Cafe (NoHo/NYU): 225 Sullivan St, New York, NY 10012

My partner insisted I include this spot, but I admit over the years, it has grown on me. It’s located just a block south of Washington Square Park, dead center in the NYU zone, and is a really great place to study if you want to have the option of coffee, sandwich, or even a cold beer while you work! Hey, who’s judging?

BROOKLYN:

BKG Coffee Roasters (Clinton Hill): 557 Myrtle Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11205

This cafe is somewhat tight in Brooklyn standards, but has a really great dedicated work space in the back. Service is friendly and wifi is strong!

Black Brick Coffee (Williamsburg): 300 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, N

Williamsburg has several hip cafes, but Black Brick is the only one I want to actually spend time at. The decor is cool: a ceiling made of crates, toilet equipped with ancient pull-chain flusher, and stylish wall sconces. They prefer that laptops stick to the back room, but, if you’re lucky enough to find it open, there’s a gigantic secret garden!

Brooklyn Roasting Company (Navy Yard): 200 Flushing Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11205

I have a love-hate relationship with the Brooklyn Roasting located in DUMBO, but this Navy Yard location is much more my style. It resembles a 1940’s diner meshed with a vintage gas station. It has bright work space on benches underneath huge glass windows. And of course, wifi!

Cafe Grumpy (Greenpoint): 193 Meserole Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222

An old personal favorite! I must admit I collect Cafe Grumpy mugs due to a slight obsession with their grumpy-faced bean logo. But the coffee is also top notch. Most of the Cafe Grumpy locations do not have wifi and discourage laptop use, but the Greenpoint location is the exception! It’s a HUGE space and one of the best places to spend hours working.

Four and Twenty Blackbirds (Gowanus): 439 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

I used to live around the corner from this pie shop and have at times, been known to over-indulge in their salty honey pie. But some may not realize this cafe is also a wonderful place to just grab coffee and get some work done at one of their many large vintage tables. Strong wifi and a young, artsy crowd.

Hungry Ghost (Park Slope/Flatbush Avenue): 253 Flatbush Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11217

Another spot that serves an excellent coffee (Stumptown Roasters) but the space is special: it resembles an architect’s living room! Only some tables are for laptop work, but I have spent some great moments here appreciating the quality of the space, working or not.

WHITE NOISE COFFEE CO. (Boerum Hill): 57 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

A new contender emerged on the scene in 2019: WHITE NOISE! Originally from Queens, this cafe is seriously cool. Everything is clean and designed with purpose. The space is large and airy, with several spots ideal for getting some work done. Wifi and bathroom passwords are on the receipt.

White Noise in Brooklyn has the hip factor AND the free wifi

Cider and Pintxos of San Sebastian/Donostia

I grew up in a green, mountainous section of northern New England where the local apple cider is cherished nearly as much as maple syrup. With this upbringing, you may begin to understand my excitement when I learned one of the specialties of the green, mountainous Basque Country in Spain was also cider.

Of course, Basque Country has a considerably older tradition; much larger, more diverse, and ultimately, more alcoholic (the Vermont ciders tend to be of the sweet, deep brown, non-alcoholic variety — though thankfully the cider scene is growing in the northeast). And don’t get me started about how the Spanish cider is poured: from a small, fast stream and caught in a glass at an extreme angle. You know, as you would if you were trying to show off to friends. I just love a good showy pour.

Bartender at La Viña in San Sebastian, pouring cider from the bottle in the Basque style

Now, most people head to Basque country to spend a day or two at the resort town of San Sebastian/Donostia, but it’s well worth it to head just a few miles outside of town one morning to one of the many cider producers. I chose Sidrería Petritegi and partook one of their many “cider experiences” where they take you through their ancient production facilities, into an orchard where you can practice spearing apples and collecting them in a bucket, tour gigantic rooms of barrels, then back to the cafe for some food and cider tasting. Honestly, the best part was learning how to catch the cider properly in your glass as it’s streaming artfully from a giant barrel. It made for a wonderful couple hours and I left very, very happy.

Cider fermentation barrels at Petritegi

Now, another suggestion if you’re heading to San Sebastian: don’t just drink the cider! You must also eat plates of pintxos right at the bar, just like a local. This concept of pintxos, pronounced "peen-chos" and meaning skewer or toothpick, is very similar to tapas. Pintxos was a fairly novel idea to me before my visit, but it’s just snack-sized plates of quality house dishes, often skewered with a toothpick, and served quickly at the bar. The informality of it all made me feel totally at home. You can put in an order of 4 or 5 options and, if your hunger persists, keep them coming all night. It’s fun to spend your evenings just stopping into several pintxos bars all over San Sebastien, consuming dozens of different options while you watch the bartender pour a tall cider, quite literally. Luckily, it’s all fairly inexpensive compared with NYC prices. You can never go wrong ordering the local sausage, anchovy, and definitely the cheesecake!

CIDER:

Sidrería Petritegi Sagardotegia: Petritegi Bidea, 8, 20115 Astigarraga, Gipuzkoa, Spain. Book here for guided cider tastings.

Sagardoaren Lurraldea (Cider Museum): Kale Nagusia Kalea, 48, 20115 Astigarraga, Gipuzkoa, Spain. This museum and the website is an excellent resource if you desire to learn more about cider making, the history of cider in the Basque Country, or to view all cider experience options in the area.

PINTXOS BARS:

Bar Txepetxa: Arrandegi Kalea, 5, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Bodega Donostiarra: Peña y Goñi Kalea, 13, 20002 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

La Viña: 31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Paco Bueno: Calle Mayor, 6, 20003 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Spain

Pintxo sausage detail

Cheesecake from La Viña in San Sebastian. Order two.

Food and Gelato of Rome

I awoke this morning to a text message from an old boss. I worked for her many years ago on a stressful financial team at Harvard University. I wish I could say I met this surprise text with joy, but in reality, it gave me a dose of instant anxiety. Lucky for me, she was simply asking for travel advice on Rome (she clearly remembers me well!), so to kill two birds with one stone, and because this was clearly a sign from beyond, I will write a post dedicated to my favorite places to indulge in Rome, Italy!

Ahhh, the light in Italy! Sunset at Altare della Patria in Central Rome

First of all, if you haven’t been to Rome, you may not realize how valuable a dinner reservation can be at some of the tastiest restaurants. Tourists and locals alike are competing for the best Italian food, and it should be a priority since it’s Italy after all. Before my latest trip to Rome, in late 2018, I spent an obscene amount of time narrowing down a list of good restaurants so that I could land a coveted dinner reservation. Some I had to compromise by waiting until 9:30 to eat, which may not be late for an Italian but I could barely last the wait! Thankfully, it is worth the trouble to land a spot at any one of these restaurants!

Burrata Cheese from Puglia with Black Pepper and Sundried Cherry Tomatoes from SALUMERIA CON CUCINA ROSCIOLI

This appetizer lives on in my memory as my favorite first bite moment in all of Italy

ROME FOOD:

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina: Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

This place came recommended from several friends and trusted sources. You must book here far in advance, and it’s absolutely worth it. See photo above for proof. I recommend a counter bar seat so you can watch the expert servers at work. If you’re lucky like I was, you may even be seated next to an intriguing group of women from Milan, one of whom named Donatella. I kid you not. Book a spot here.

Flavio Al Velavevodetto: Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Located just south of center Rome, this is easy to get to by subway or quick taxi. Excellent for groups or family dinners and they have outdoor seating, too. Book a spot here.

Ai Tre Scalini: Via Panisperna, 251, 00184 Roma RM, Italy

This famed restaurant has the joyous and informal atmosphere of a much-adored old-fashioned pub, often with patrons spilling out onto the quiet Monti streets. Conveniently located near the Colosseum, it does a great job serving up the classics without the fussy details of some of the other Roman classic restaurants. Book at spot here.

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali: Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9, 00184 Roma RM, Italy (closed Tuesdays) Phone: (+39) 06.67.98.643 or (+39) 328.25.76.999

This place is also located in the central but quiet / hip neighborhood of Monti. They do not take online reservations so you’ll have to call them on the phone (number above). It is a formal restaurant with white tablecloths and well-dressed couples and families. Excellent choice for a romantic dinner. I was convinced to try it after hearing the name come up several times and then discovering this gallery of photos sealed the deal.

Trattoria Da Enzo al 29: Via dei Vascellari, 29, 00153 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays) Phone: (+39) 06 58 12 260 - They accept reservations only for 7.30 PM dinner slots.

I had saved the name of this restaurant and happened to walk by as I was getting hungry at lunchtime. It was a fortunate situation as it turned out to be a charming place and memorable meal! It is informal and feels like an everyday Roman cafe, in the best possible way. You will want to show up early for a walk-in lunch spot, as right after we landed a table, the restaurant totally filled up! Try the fried artichoke.

Armando al Pantheon: Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy (closed Sundays)

Ok, I must admit that I didn’t eat here. My partner James was turned off by the fact it is located across from the Pantheon and made some unfair assumptions. Unfortunately for us, we missed out on a table as we hestitated, and later realized we made a huge mistake! Don’t be like us, get moving and book at spot here.

ROME GELATO and GRANITA:

If you’re like me, hardly a day in Italy can be spent without gelato. It’s pretty much mandatory. And on my latest trip to Italy, I learned to love the granita! If you don’t know what granita is, it’s an icy dessert, often of a classic Italian flavor like almond, pistachio, or lemon. You’ll love it.

Fatamorgana: Via dei Chiavari, 37A, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

There are a few locations of this delicious gelato shop, known for inventive flavors and a hip, young following.

Gelateria Artigianale Corona Roma: Largo Arenula, 27, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

I came here on recommendation from a good friend that they have the best almond granita in Rome. I was smitten and hope to go back one day soon!

Pica Alberto: Via della Seggiola, 12, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Old school perfection. Order a pistachio gelato and thank me later.

Come il Latte: Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

Modern and amazing, this gelato shop knocked me off my dessert-loving feet! They give a couple topping options like a wafer cookie or chocolate sauce. I must say I left Rome placing this shop at the very top of my list of sweet indulgence in Italy. And there were so many sweet indulgences in Italy!

La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro: Via degli Orfani, 84, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Close to the Pantheon, this cafe is busy! You should go anyway as the line moves fast. As with some other Italian cafes, first wait in line to order your drink from the cashier. They then give you a ticket for the barista. Order the granita di caffe (coffee granita). Stand at the counter to enjoy, as sitting costs extra.

Order the Granita di Caffe at Rome’s La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro

Bars of New York City

Knowing where to grab a drink in New York may seem like a simple quest, as there are approximately 10,000 NYC bars, but today’s New York is fast-evolving and that spot you loved last year may no longer be around. Some of the factors to consider would be location and atmosphere, of course, but also could be things like comfortable seating or whether they carry your favorite gin.

I’ll go through some of my current favorites around Manhattan and Brooklyn and tell you what I love about them. In general, my favorite bars tend to attract an interesting mix of people; men, women, gay, straight, young, and old. However, I lean towards classic historic-type spaces rather than sleek and modern.

Henry Public in Brooklyn

BROOKLYN:

First of all, I’ll throw out a disclaimer: I live in Brooklyn and I’m quite partial to the borough and therefore, it will come first on this list! Brooklyn, like the rest of NYC, is chock full of bars, but even with endless options, there are just a few places so good, I find myself going back again and again.

Henry Public: 329 Henry St, Brooklyn, NY 11201

Before ordering at Henry Public, I am smitten taking in the atmosphere. This bar / restaurant is all about quality over options. This place serves up a few great local beers and has perfected a dozen cocktails on menu. Speaking of the menu, it is designed as a vintage “bill of fare” like a menu out of 1890: just a few food items and a burger called the “hamburger sandwich”. I drink and dine here regularly and it’s the kind of place you desperately wish was in your neighborhood.

Brooklyn Inn: 148 Hoyt St, Brooklyn, NY 11217

Another Brooklyn bar heavy on historic atmosphere, Brooklyn Inn will charm you before you even step inside. It’s lit wonderfully with tall decorative windows and antique light fixtures. There is a back room for playing pool that is fantastically dark and the whole visit will make you feel like you’re experiencing the long-lost Brooklyn of yore.

The Gate: 321 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

This central Park Slope favorite attracts visitors from all over the borough. There’s a good-sized outdoor patio that is also dog-friendly. They carry a lot of quality beer on tap, even some of my Vermont favorites (hello, Heady Topper!), as well as a well-stocked bar. Walk around and find the unique Obama art piece!

The Double Windsor: 210 Prospect Park West, Brooklyn, NY 11215

I may have visited Double Windsor more than any other Brooklyn bar, and that’s because it kind of has it all! There’s a large ever-changing and unique draught beer list, as well as a kitchen serving up one of the best burgers and possibly THE best french fries. This place is wonderfully local, and also attracts all types from Brooklyn hipsters to sports teams, to gay boys on dates. It’s also conveniently located down the street from the Nitehawk Prospect Park for nights you need a good bite before a movie.

Black Rabbit: 91 Greenpoint Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222

I venture to Williamsburg and Greenpoint every few weeks, even if to just walk around and see what hipsters and artsy tourists are dressing like today. We all know about the boom in popularity of the area, but with so many new restaurants, bars, and cool hotels, I quickly tire of the “scene” and head straight to Black Rabbit for a few drinks. This bar is pretty big, with actual semi-private wooden booths, and an adorable back yard garden. They stock the front with dozens of board games, too. I can unwind in this bar like no other.

MANHATTAN:

Finding a good bar in Manhattan is a lot harder than it may first seem. Manhattan can offer practically any style and price point, but my list below contains the places where I can show up on any night of the week and know I will have a great time. I spent several years living in Manhattan before moving to Brooklyn, and many of the bars below have persisted and thrived because they’re doing something right (and many are so historic they were here long before I was born). Below are also mostly affordable options with casual or historic vibes, and you should feel comfortable ordering either beer or a mixed drink here, in other words, they aren’t too swanky and not full of frat dudes, either! You’ll want to write these down.

Arts and Crafts Beer Parlor: 26 W 8th St, New York, NY 10011

Come for the decorative wallpaper, stay for the spectacular beer list! This place is also really close to both NYU and Washington Square Park.

Caledonia Bar: 1609 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10028

Admit it, you wish you were in Scotland right now. Come to Caledonia Bar on the Upper East Side and experience the next best thing!

Cubbyhole: 281 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014

This gay bar has been a favorite since I discovered it in 2005 and I have celebrated 3 New Year’s Eves here. It’s not easy to find an affordable drinking hole in the West Village that also is full of interesting and friendly people of all genders and orientations. This place may overwhelm you at first with the outrageous decor (just look up!) but you will soon feel like you belong and the notoriously fabulous jukebox will entertain you for hours.

Dive 75: 101 W 75th St, New York, NY 10023

I have never lived on the Upper West Side, but I’ve found it hard to locate a good bar here in the past. Enter Dive 75! This place has a giant fish tank, free bowls of candy (the good kind!), and a solid menu of beer and other drinks. And don’t be discouraged, it’s not a filthy dive, it’s the kind of dive that fits in on the swanky residential 75th Street.

Johnny’s Bar: 90 Greenwich Ave, New York, NY 10011

OK I know I promised I wouldn’t post a bunch of dive bars, but this one is a must-see. It’s tiny, it’s grimy, and it’s a little uncomfortable. But the location on Greenwich Avenue is unbeatable and I always have a fun time stopping in here for a drink.

Manhattan Cricket Club: 226 W 79th St, New York, NY 10024

This place might be the swankiest spot on my list, but if that’s what you’re looking for, then we’re all good! Manhattan Cricket Club is a must-visit for cocktail lovers and the after-work drink crowd. It’s quality, it’s spiffy, it’s classic, and a little bit romantic!

Swift Hibernian Lounge: 34 E 4th St, New York, NY 10003

I can’t get enough of the historic spots! Give me a hint of literary adornment and I’m hooked. Swift prides itself on quality Irish pours and conversation. Come here for a dark beer and you might even get caught up in a fascinating conversation at the bar.

The Grange: 1635 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10031

Harlem has so much to discover, for both locals and tourists alike, but fails to enter many must-see lists for those who don’t already live in upper Manhattan. This is a newcomer to the Harlem drinking scene that I was happy to see attracts a wonderful mix of local regulars.

The Penrose: 1590 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10028

The Upper East Side recently gained a new subway line, the Q. During the years of construction on the Q line, Second Avenue was in disarray and several businesses came and went. The Penrose came strong in 2012 and has proven itself to be a strong contender to best overall bar on the Upper East Side. It’s stylish with a hint of local history and modern sparkle. You will want to dress sharp to sit here at the bar, and it’s a great place to people watch the preppy scene that so defines the Upper East Side.

White Horse Tavern: 567 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014

The last bar on my list belongs to a classic. The White Horse opened in 1880 and became a favorite of Dylan Thomas and other writers. Today, it’s a fun mix of tourists and locals. You can sit in the historic interior or soak up the fascinating street scene of the West Village out on the street tables. Come here as you wait for a table next door at The Spotted Pig, and you will have yourself a wonderful New York evening.

Coffee Shops of Paris

Delicious, simple perfection at Dreamin Man

We all love the idea of travelling to Paris to sit amongst chic locals at a perfect French cafe. Just like in the movies. While this is always an excellent idea to experience at some point in your visit to Paris, I prefer to save the large street cafe experience for lunch or an afternoon aperitif, and instead caffeinate at a local, specialty coffee shop. Not only will the coffee be better, but it will bring you into some interesting side streets of Paris’ most hip neighborhoods.

Paris is in the middle of a wonderful coffee renaissance (aka: third wave) and you should be part of it!

Much of the best coffee scene is around the 10th and 3rd arrondissements, close to the Canal St-Martin or Marais neighborhoods.

Below are some of my favorites:

Dreamin Man: 140 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France

Fragments: 76 Rue des Tournelles, 75003 Paris, France

Radiodays: 15 Rue Alibert, 75010 Paris, France

La Boutique de La Brûlerie de Belleville: 14 Rue Lally-Tollendal, 75019 Paris, France

Ob-La-Di: 54 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France

Loustic: 40 Rue Chapon, 75003 Paris, France

Ten Belles: 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 Paris, France

Coutume Café: 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France

Are there any quality Parisian coffee shops you would recommend? Please feel free to mention them in the comments below!